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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 522
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Refurb steering rack with front suspension out?
I've just wrapped up my rear suspension and am starting on the front.
My car has maybe 50-60k miles on it, and the steering has always felt fine to me. No weird noises, works great. I have zero concerns about it. So I'm considering just doing the front suspension and leaving the steering rack for down the road, despite the fact that the steering rack will require removing much of what I'll already be taking off. For those that have been there, done that and have the tshirt, any advice? I'll be doing the turbo tie rods and new rubber boots, wondering if I can just try to squirt fresh grease in one of the steering rack covers while I'm at it.
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1987 M491 Widebody, Nautic Blue / Linen with a 1979 930 3.3L Cali Engine |
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Registered
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 1,298
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That's exactly what I did. Cleaned the rack, removed the two caps and greased.
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 916
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Me too! I did the Elephant poly bronze rebuild on my '82 in about 2010.
The rack boots were disintegrated and the grease in the rack was dry and/or non-existent. It's only another hour to get the rack and steering column out for inspection and service. The boots don't cost much. And you only have to align the car once. |
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Registered
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: behind the redwood curtain, (humboldt county) california
Posts: 1,433
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easier to do it now
with the suspension out of the way and tie rods disconnected, you only have to remove the two bottom mounting bolts and the coupler to slide out the rack.
it is much easier to work on - up on the bench. You can clean out all of the old hard grease and debris, clean and lube the top side roller bearings, and replace the original (unsealed), ball bearing with a sealed bearing, (it is the low point on the rack and without a seal, any moisture/debris will foul the bearing - the bearing is about $10-$15. It is very important to counter-hold the rack while removing and replacing the tie rod ends, because the only two things preventing axial rotation of the rack are the pinion/engaged with the rack, and the spring-loaded puck under the rack. Similarly, if you don't hold on to the pinion yoke and try to tighten it before the tie rods and stops, (big washers) are installed, you risk damaging the pinion, as it tries to climb over the gear teeth ends on the rack. regards, chris |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2016
Posts: 355
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If you open it up to re-grease, which I'd do since you are so close, and the existing grease looks OK, then I'd assume the two bearings are good. How does it feel, turning lock to lock, with the tie rods off? Effortless? Smooth as silk? You'll probably never be back?
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Registered
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How old is the grease? Think about that.
What year car? |
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Enginerd
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Follow Chris' advice, I did the same when I had my entire front end apart last winter. Rebuilt and re-greased my steering rack. It was in good shape, but now I know it's good for another 40yrs.
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1982 Guards Red 911SC, 1994 Riviera Blue RoW 993, 2017 GT Silver Turbo S, 2020 British Racing Green Macan GTS Gone but not forgotten: 2012 Guards Red 991.1 C2S, 2017 Carrera White Macan GTS IG: @pcar911fan |
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