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Oil drain tube change, need to drain all oil?
I need to change my driver side oil drain tubes and, of course, just put new oil in after a valve adjustment. Can I drain the engine sump and not the oil tank or Will the tank back feed into the sump?
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,560
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If you don't waste time, you'll be ok.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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Join Date: Dec 2021
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I drained the engine sump to swap oil return tubes, adjust valves, etc and I think it was about 2.5qts.
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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Quote:
It took me several days to do everything, and I didn't have any issue with it refilling and messing me up. Even with draining the sump, there is still oil that leaks out when removing the valve covers and return tubes. It wasnt much but have a rag handy. To insert the tubes I used the radiator clamps and a screwdriver technique. I tried a couple of other tricks I saw online, but the clamps/screwdriver was the easiest for me. Valve cover gaskets and return tubes solved my oil leak problems. Dry as a bone now! |
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Boulder, Colorado
Posts: 7,275
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I'd try it without draining anything. Jack the car us as high as you can on the side where you are removing the tube. "Try" means putting a large pan under the case end of the tube in case you have so much oil in the sump the even at a high angle the oil level is above the case hole.
This tilt method works fine for pulling an exhaust valve cover to adjust valves or fiddle with rocker shafts or any other work there. Haven't tried it for pulling a tube, though. But you won't lose too much any way, and won't have to fuss with a full drain or to try to work fast on a hot motor. Though you could combine a hot (or warm) motor with the jack it way up approach. |
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Just a quick update on how this job went. I did end up draining all the oil to be safe. I think I could have just drained the sump and been ok.
The whole job of replacing the two driver side tubes (the worst side and hardest to access) was really very easy. Crushing the stock tubes and twisting removed them very easily. Installing the aluminum expanding type tubes was easy and the only challenge is to get the C clip to engage the locking groove on the inner tube just due to access but between the C clip pliers and a long screw driver, it went very well. I am now totally drip free so will see how long this lasts. Thanks |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Chesapeake, VA
Posts: 1,699
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Toby - I am getting ready to do this, and have an 88 Carrera. Were you have to work around the CAT and HE on the driver's side. Not worried about passenger, but the driver's side looks like a pre-planned exercise in stabbing myself in the eye. I have ready post after post, could you describe your install method?
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Chris 1988 911 Carrera Targa (driving project started JAN 2022) 1970 911E - Long since gone 1972 911 Targa - gone 1987 911 Carrera - gone Retired FA-18C Driver |
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Quote:
If the other side was not replaced do them all 4.Also it is really no big deal to drain the engine.It take couple of minutes and you will have less mess doing the job.After put the drained oil back in the car. it is that simple... Ivan oh yes ,do use metal oil return tubes no aluminium types...
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1985 911 with original 502 191 miles...808 198 km "The difference between genius and stupidity is that, genius has its limits". Albert Einstein. |
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