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-   -   HELP Unable to Put in Gear After Clutch Installation (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=1119803)

supradan 05-29-2022 10:25 AM

HELP Unable to Put in Gear After Clutch Installation
 
Hello everyone,
I recently finished a clutch installation on my 1977 Porsche 911. Unfortunately, I'm unable to put the thing in gear now. Here's some background on the car and what I've done this far:
[LIST][*]Thans is a 1975[*]Sachs Power Clutch with resurfaced flywheel[*]No helper spring[*]New clutch cable prior to clutch replacement[*]Cable has been adjusted with the right pedal travel [*]If I start the car in reverse it does roll[*]Clutch pedal feels heavy and tight

I really don't want to pull the engine and trans out again, so looking for any advice or possible fix. Any help, if greatly appreciated.

Daniel

walt 05-29-2022 10:50 AM

Are you certain the shift fork is properly inserted into the release bearing. There should be a observation hole in the bell housing.

supradan 05-29-2022 11:25 AM

Thanks Walt. I see two observation holes. One by the bell housing and one between the trans and motor. The observation hole on the side of the bell housing I can see the pressure plate and the other one I can't really see anything.

walt 05-29-2022 12:28 PM

When you mated the transmission to the engine block did you guide the fork into the groove of the release bearing. If not you are most likely not engaged properly. If your confident you did this right, try disconnecting your shift coupler and go thru the set-up procedure from the beginning. Lots of tips in the forum how best to do this.

supradan 05-29-2022 03:50 PM

Thanks Walt!

Unfortunately I did not do this step. Before I drop the engine and trans again, is anything else I can check?

Thank you!

bahman 05-29-2022 04:40 PM

I had the same problem many years ago, and the fix was as Walt has suggested. As you bring tranny and engine to mate, you need to look through the upper inspection hole with a powerful flash light to ensure that the two protrusions at the upper and lower edges of the clutch fork line up with the grove in the outer edge of TOB, and as you move the Eng/tranny closer together, make sure that the fork alignment with TOB grove continues, and gradually they fully engages.

supradan 05-30-2022 04:25 AM

I was really hoping not to pull the engine and trans out again. Thank you for the direction.

brighton911 05-30-2022 06:15 AM

Can you put it in gear when the engine is not running ? If you can, it points to a clutch issue. If you can't, then it is a shift setup issue.

proporsche 05-30-2022 06:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by supradan (Post 11704638)
I was really hoping not to pull the engine and trans out again. Thank you for the direction.

no need to remove the trans.. just slightly disconnect the engine-separate from trans..of course disconnect what has to be....then lower it jut enough so you can see with a mirror the for and bearing.

Ivan

supradan 05-30-2022 01:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brighton911 (Post 11704690)
Can you put it in gear when the engine is not running ? If you can, it points to a clutch issue. If you can't, then it is a shift setup issue.

Yes I can put it in gear without the engine running.

At this point it sounds like I need to pull the engine and trans out and see if I can try to align the TB with fork.

Thank you everyone for the input.

Daniel

3literpwr 05-30-2022 01:26 PM

Have you confirmed that you have 25mm of stroke at the cable end?

chrismorse 05-30-2022 04:40 PM

Ivan's suggestion of a partial engine drop could save you from a lot of work,

I'm jsut guessing you could leave the axles and a lot of stuff still hooked up, probably removing the muffler to get room to slide it back. Hopefully Ivan and/or others will chime in with a list of disconnects - i'm just a rookie :-)

good luck,
chris

proporsche 05-30-2022 10:30 PM

ok to partly drop the engine
1.drain the engine oil
2.disconnect the cable from back up switch
3.disconnect the clutch cable and remove the arm
4.disconnect the heater hoses from heat excha.
5.disconnect the main wire plug on left of the engine-plus acu.bottom line-brake booster air hose
6.diconn. the fuel line to the filter and return
7......el plug behind the heater motor to the body.
8.throttle linkage to the trans
9.engine breather hose to the tank
10.remove the alu. arm on transmission where the Omega spring rests - plus 2x 15 mm nut holding the trans to the engine(it to have better access to this nut on left)
11.main oil line from oil pump to the tank 36mm nut-plus S hose from the engine or tank.
12.for safety disconnect the shifter coupler from the rod 5mm allen
13.do not know if you have A/C?
14.place a jack under the strainer plate.dead center -if you like some rubber or cardboard piece
15.lower the engine so you can actually reach the 10mm allen nut on the top of the starter
16 remove the 15mm on left top of the engine and trans.
17.vigle the engine so you have about 5 cm gap space use a mirror and see where is your fork located..if it is in front of the to bearing try to manipulate it in place -if you have enough clearance- if yes and now you have it in place double check with the mirror and push the engine back in place.
18.do not take the engine all the way out 5-6 cm should be plenty of place to guide the fork to it`s place
i hope i covered it all? oh ya i used my knees to manipulate the engine and one hand on top of the engine...

Ivan


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