QuickJack User Woes?
 

Hola - about a year ago I purchased a quickjack. Can’t remember which one, but I’m pretty sure it was the one with the shorter length because 911.

That said, I’m pretty close to selling it. Moving it around is zero fun, and I find that a floor jack and jack stands are usually quicker, and easier to manage. The quickjack is almost impossible to position in a way where something isn’t resting directly on the tub and it takes constant adjustment, especially as you do things that require you to go up and down.

Before I throw in the towel, just wanted to ask users on here, is anyone having the opposite experience and feel like giving some pointers?

The only thing I can think of at this point that might make it worth it is to construct a frame or something that fits precisely on the 911 that I mount on the QJ.

My ceilings are relatively low, so my inclination is just to forget about it until I can afford getting the Max Jax

I haven't had any issues. I don't move it around tho, I leave it under my car. I use the double stacked rubber blocks against the tub. No real adjustment needed other than making sure the rubber blocks are in the right spot before lifting all the way. I feel way way way safer under it vs some jackstands.

Kyngfish - I share your feelings! I bought one at Costco and returned after using it for the first time. I found a floor jack and jack stands to be an easier and quicker alternative. I have since bought a scissor lift (similar to Harbor Freight model but Snap-On branded), and it's a lot of the same though with a much higher lifting height. I think it was invaluable for the engine drop I just did, but may pass it along to a new owner now that the engine is back in the car.

With the later cars that have the jacking points welded to the tub, I also found that the quickjack didn't line up when positioned normally (running parallel with the car). The front mounts I found are too far outboard relative to the rear mounts to align.

My solution was to turn the individual platforms perpendicular to the car and use one platform to line up with the front mounts and the other with the rear. I recall at the time reading this was an approved method by the manufacturer and it has worked fine for me for several years. Same as with the traditional method, you need to ensure you have enough side to side clearance from obstructions as well as have the individual platforms positioned parallel to one another etc.

Todd

Any pics of this setup? Was debating quickjack for my 87 Roller Project, doing a G50/LS3 swap and want to make sure I have proper clearance.

I have them and I do use them if I need to keep the car elevated for a period of time, but I loathe the time it takes to hook everything up, then align it under the lift points (back, forth, back, forth). I frequently use a jack and jackstands for smaller jobs out of convenience.

I cut 3" off the rear and re-welded the end box to improve the fit. Now I can remove my sway bar on the Quickjack whereas before it was too long and I had to remove them on the ground.

I also made some spin up pad supports that fit into the trays. Now I just position the QJ, spin up to a rubber pinch block, and lift. No longer have to go around the car multiple times to ensure the alignment.

These 2 changes have made a big difference.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666639314.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666639358.jpg

Yes, it's a hassle but sure is nice working under it.

Once lifted, I always go around the car shaking it to make sure it's absolutely solid and stable.

Those are bad ass! Care to share what you used in making them? I would think those be so much more useful than the SUV extensions, which I was considering to give me more height.


CTopher

I’m using the 5000 LT on the 964 and I’m very happy with the setup. I agree with some of the comments regarding the jack point locations not being lined up but I was able to find a very stable solution. For the 964 I used the larger blocks in the back and I moved them inboard on the jack. I also had the jack pushed in slightly in the rear to get the jack points lined up with the blocks. In the front I used the skinnier blocks and mounted them outboard on the jack.

I honestly could never get comfortable being under the car with just jack stands. No matter how much I tried I couldn’t get past the appearance of the car teetering on the stands. I also wanted more height under the stands as I’m claustrophobic. My stands have already paid for themselves with the recent brake job and hydraulic flush of the brake system.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666640085.jpg

Can you show what you mean by 3 inches off the rear and re-welded? I have a welder so I am ready for that mod.

On the second bit - “Spin up to a rubber pinch block” how do you mean? I rest my pinch blocks on the tray and part of my frustration is constantly having to go up and down to make sure those pinch blocks are hitting the right spot. The darn thing moves forward as well as up, so trying to put the blocks on both sides and estimate that it’s the right spot is annoying as all get-out.

Agree that spinning up to the right position is muuuuch better, but are you positioning the pinch blocks onto the pads then spinning them up towards the pinch?

Quick Jack photos
 

Engine drop - Quick Jack - easy !
Agree - QJ is more stable than jack stands . . . IMHO of course . . . and we have done both

Regards,
Roy T

Crew Chief :-))
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666647152.jpg

Driver :-))
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666647152.jpg

Replaced my QuickJack with 4 Jackpoint jack stands. Great for basic maintenance on my GT3.

https://jackpointjackstands.com

Nice!

About $100 from Amazon parts:

• 70-100mm Screws: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0759WR6F8
• 4" x 1/4" steel plates: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YWBQBBK

prepped for welding:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666652324.jpg

Absolute time saver combined with various thickness pinch weld rubber blocks.

Literally cut off the rear 3 inches of the top plate, then reweld the end plate back on. Maybe hard to see since I repainted the end, but where my fingers are there should be more QJ (I cut it off):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666652787.jpg

The pinch blocks go on top of the spinners. Spinners sit in the QJ recess. Hold the block on the pinch weld, spin up the spinners (aka Star Wars Tie Fighters). No more going up and down positioning the blocks on the pinch welds, they just stay where you set them by pinning them up with the spinner against the pinchweld. Easy peasy:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666652892.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666652903.jpg

I tried this method once and the differential in lift time between the rear and the front QJ was significant and not confidence inspiring. The rear one seemed to struggle to lift the heaver rear end of the car (mine weights 2300 lbs total). They passed the locking tabs at very different times. I wanted it to work that way, but I wasn't comfortable with it. Maybe it was fine but having the car go up unevenly like that threw me off that method.

Damn. Might as well make ‘em look like jewelry while at it. Nice work.

Hola - I have also had my issues with the jack - I have them stored against a wall on the garage, and they are heavy to move, and put back on the wall. You need to be careful where you place the lift under the car, as when you lift, the upper member moves forward or backward a couple of inches. for me the most difficult part is with the quick disconnect fittings.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666666431.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1666666431.jpg
The Quick Jack gives me more height than the turrets, and is safer - worth the troubles

^^^ Love all the toys in the garage.

I leave my Quickjacks pushed together and under the car. Just pull them a foot or two outward when I need to use them. I never disconnect the lines. Just a thought.