Titanium exhaust studs. Yes or no?

[NotStock]

I have done a fair bit of searching, but I'd like to ask the direct question. What does everyone think?

Yes or no?

My thoughts:
-I just removed my old steel studs. They came out with a reasonable amount of torch/PB/cursing. Maybe I should just go back in with fresh steel studs?
-Cost of TI really isn't THAT different when sourcing the parts through pelican.
-TI is supposed to be corrosion resistant, so they should be in there for life. Suppose the same could be said for stainless exhaust studs, but I've seen the aftermath of stainless in an aluminum head. They stick in there, are made brittle from heat, and they snap. Never again.
-If for whatever reason the TI studs aren't in there for life (one breaks) its going to be a bear to get out. Can't exactly mig weld a nut to it for extraction.

What do the folks on here think?

I'm leaning toward yes with a heavy dose of nickel anti seize, but I'm easily swayed.

[john walker's workshop]

The weight savings will be worth it, if nothing else.

[NotStock]

I've always thought the car felt heavy in the rear.

[tsuter]

If they break, you can always have them EDM'd out if you can't get them with vice grips....

[winders]

Inconel would be a better choice than titanium....

[Evan Fullerton]

I came to the same conclusion as Scott. The Inconel ones look nice. Haven’t installed them yet though.

[john walker's workshop]

Does Inconel have galling issues like SS?

[Evan Fullerton]

Yes…… but so does Titanium and Aluminum.

Installed with some anti seize I don’t expect a problem.

[john walker's workshop]

They say the same thing about SS, install with anti-seize, but how long will it last on exhaust systems? Had to cut lots of them off with a disc cutter or a torch. I'm sticking with steel personally. No pun intended.

[winders]

Inconel is way better than steel and should handle being an exhaust stud MUCH better than steel or stainless steel.

https://wisconsinmetaltech.com/inconel-metal/

[chrisbalich]

I used a zealous amount of nickel antiseize on my exhaust studs when I did the top end on my engine 4 years ago.
When I did a full rebuild this year, they all came out easily. They were re-gooped with nickel antiseize and reinstalled.

As much as it sucks, I reckon pulling them every 3-5 years and re-gooping them is so much more appealing than drilling them out. (or EDMing them out)

[shoooo32]

Working for an aerospace CNC shop I have access to all kinds of exotic materials (including wild government furnished melts). I don't bother with the 911, preferring to use off-the-shelf steel studs, copper nuts and anti-seize. Unless you're using titanium fasteners, the use of dissimilar metals will create oxidation and you're back where you started. Sure, you could engineer an amazing alloy with a high temp, low friction vapor deposited coating, but juice is probably not worth the squeeze. You'd be better off using that money to buy an inductive heater to make removal easier and replace with steel as necessary.

Now that aircooled 911s average close to $100k, nobody's driving them in the salt anymore. Once the exhaust has been removed and any broken studs are replaced, life is good.

[ADDvanced]

Originally Posted by shoooo32

Working for an aerospace CNC shop I have access to all kinds of exotic materials (including wild government furnished melts). I don't bother with the 911, preferring to use off-the-shelf steel studs, copper nuts and anti-seize. Unless you're using titanium fasteners, the use of dissimilar metals will create oxidation and you're back where you started. Sure, you could engineer an amazing alloy with a high temp, low friction vapor deposited coating, but juice is probably not worth the squeeze. You'd be better off using that money to buy an inductive heater to make removal easier and replace with steel as necessary.

Now that aircooled 911s average close to $100k, nobody's driving them in the salt anymore. Once the exhaust has been removed and any broken studs are replaced, life is good.

Awesome post & legit flex

[Quicksilver]

A simple way to do away with exhaust stud issues is to loosen and retighten them every time you adjust the valves. (Or every couple years.) The reason that exhaust studs snap is the nuts get sieved and that is because they have sat their unmoving for decades.
When I lived in The People's Republic of Kalifornia I swapped out the exhaust every 2 years. After the first time the nuts were never an issue. (Plus I use the nice small copper plated lock nuts from Hill Co.)

[NotStock]

Originally Posted by chrisbalich

As much as it sucks, I reckon pulling them every 3-5 years and re-gooping them is so much more appealing than drilling them out. (or EDMing them out)

I kinda think you're right. A little more work, but low risk.

Originally Posted by shoooo32

copper nuts and anti-seize

I see copper nuts referenced a lot. Are these full copper nuts? I've also seen brass. Or are these steel nuts that are copper clad? Anyone have a link to ones that work?

[eastbay]

Pelican sells them, look under the Mercedes catalog.

I tried some awhile back, meh

[winders]

Originally Posted by NotStock

I see copper nuts referenced a lot. Are these full copper nuts? I've also seen brass. Or are these steel nuts that are copper clad? Anyone have a link to ones that work?

Always use copper plated nuts....full copper would not work....too soft.

Bell Metric is a great source.

[Ctopher]

The recommendation seems to stay with the steel studs and copper plated nuts but what type of anti seize is recommended? Use the aluminum based, nickel or copper anti seize?


CTopher

[chrisbalich]

Nickel-based anti-seize has the highest temp rating, so that's what I use.
The headers tend to be the hottest part of any car (or the cat if so equipped), so the ability to survive more heat seems like the best path forward.

[David Inc.]

Originally Posted by winders

Always use copper plated nuts....full copper would not work....too soft.

Bell Metric is a great source.

That's what I picked up, great anti-corrosion properties and bonus, very pretty color. I used the copper locknuts on my intake runners as well just for kicks.