I always use a rope/strap tied to the steering wheel, to hold the clutch pedal fully up, while adjusting the cable...

Interesting. Thanks for the info.

If after correct clutch adjustment, you get gears with engine off and no gears with engine running, it could be a cracked or bent clutch release fork.

Update - I swapped the trans fluid to Kendall 80/90 from Swepco, had been meaning to anyway. Also took mikedsilva’s recommendation and ratchet strapped the clutch pedal all the way up, then re-adjusted the clutch lever bolt. This was helpful as I feel like I got a better adjustment. When I fired the car up, it was still hesitant to go into gears but was not as harsh as before. I took the car for a drive since I was able to somewhat get into gears. In going for a drive the car instantly shifts normal, zero issues. The gearing issue seems to only be while the car is sitting idle. I will continue to research but this seems odd to me. I would appreciate any useful feedback. Thanks guys.

If after checking and adjusting your clutch system you cannot engage into any gear while at a stop with engine running and clutch pedal to the floor then I say again, you have a stuck clutch to clutch plate. Every time I have had this issue when I first try to start the car after being parked in the garage for sometime. Sometimes I do not take the car out for several weeks. When it happens, I would turn the engine off, then I would engage reverse gear, start the engine and drive out of the garage. Shifting gears while moving is not an issue with my car. When I needed to come to a stop I would down shift into second and leave it there with the clutch depressed, then release the clutch and start driving from second gear. Trying to shift into first before stopping was to difficult. This technique is only used until I am somewhere where I can force the clutch to free itself. I usually use reverse gear to free the clutch as noted in my previous post. Why this happens on my car still alludes me, all I know is that once in a while it happens . I have previously posted this issue years ago on this forum with no reply’s providing a meaningful answer to the issue. I have no desires to pull the engine to rebuild the clutch since I only have 20k on the previous rebuild. Granted that was over 20 years ago. I am sure if my Porsche was my daily driver now like it was in the 1990’s I would not have this issue.

Interesting. I guess this makes sense especially in the cold winter weather. Now that I think back, this has happened to me in the past. At the time, I had a Rennshift shifter, I did some adjustments to it and the problem went away. My clutch kit (Centerforce) has less than 3k miles. Odd issue.

Pat - tried your method of slamming on the brakes while the car is rolling in 1st gear. This immediately solved the problem then it went back to doing it again (can't get into gears while car is on and not moving). If your theory is correct, I supposed I may have sticky clutch plate.

Hate to bring up expen$ive possibilities, but also could be the crank pilot bearing beginning to seize. I would not continue driving it until you figure out the problem. Start by measuring the throw of the clutch release arm when you step on the pedal. I don't know what the spec is, but if it's moving a full stroke and still not releasing then I'm afraid you will have to drop the transmission and inspect the clutch and pilot bearing.

Fun times. This weekend I will measure the clutch cable throw. Per my review, it should be 25mm. I will also check the clutch clevis and pin connections. If that all checks out, I will likely have to drop the motor later in the year and inspect the clutch, pilot bearing and transmission shaft seals. Motor has only been in for less than 3k miles :)