Fortunately I don’t have to worry about installing a cat for any reason… I have been very pleased about how straightforward it is to swap around the exhaust bits once I got the original rusty bolts cut off. A little nickel Never Seize and stainless hardware and it should be fine in the future.

Forgot to put the carpet back in the trunk and had to be careful not to catch bags of dirt loading up the car this afternoon at Sam’s Club and had to break down the giant pack of paper towels just to make my whole grocery run fit in the car.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1683932346.jpg

Is that a tackle box amongst the paper towels? Must have a two piece pole in the cab. ;)

It’s a battery pack jump start/booster thing… haven’t had to use it on the 911 but it has been very handy to have on hand for other cars.

Installing pop off valve today… in the 101 projects book it has the whole air box assembly out which would have made things a lot easier but pulling all that out looks like a considerably larger project. Working on the engine of this car I feel like a a gynecologist must trying to get all up in there to get a project done.

Drilling the hole I was a bit nervous as I don’t know enough about the anatomy of the air box and am worried about drilling down into something important. It doesn’t help that the drill can’t quite fit vertically but is at a bit of an angle even despite having used a Dremel to cut off some of the ribs in the way.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684001641.jpg

Hole is cut and I see that I’m not in immediate peril of drilling into everything so I stuff some paper towels in and mark the ribs so I can dremel them out some more.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684002402.jpg

It seems odd to me that the pop off valve sticks down so much into the area below, seems like it could interrupt air flow or something. I guess it’s made that way if someone doesn’t really cut the ribs down for it to fit snugly in place but it doesn’t make sense.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684002592.jpg

A little more dremel work and that seems like a little better depth for the valve to stick down.… after I vacuumed any remaining plastic bits up I also wiped down everything with alcohol. I don’t know what the metal plate is immediately below but it turns out to not be brown but that’s just some kind of residue that was all over it. This now makes me want to take this whole thing apart and clean it thoroughly, but that’s a project for another day.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684002680.jpg

Test fit… the valve sits snugly against the floor of the air box and the hinge mechanism clears the ribs if it opens.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684003003.jpg

Run a bead of JW Weld quick setting around the valve and it’s now in place. Additional regular JB weld will seal it in place a bit later once this sets up.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684003139.jpg

FWIW. To make the inside of tail light buckets shiny, I used a chrome spray on paint. Dupli-Color EBUN02007 Perfect Match Automotive Spray Paint - Universal Chrome

https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-EBUN02007-Universal-Perfect-Automotive/dp/B00AZM8UKU?th=1

Nice Tires. That is what I have on my car. Great for everything, fun driving, spirited driving, autocross (keeps you in the PCA Production Classes), and HPDE.

.... and this is what make these cars so special.

Not only a great sports car, but when the need arises you carry a meaningful amount of stuff. Ask your Ferrari friends how they make out in a similar situation.

Reason #392 you should have just pulled the engine. On my airbox, not only was the seam bad due to stripped out screws, there was a hole in the bottom that wasn't sealed well. Also the rubber sleeves that connect to the intake tubes were cracked. With the airbox removed from the vehicle it's a lot easier to give it a full R&R.

I suspect we might have some of the same Ferrari friends… Yes, most of the F cars in this range are much less practical which is one of the reasons the 911 appealed me to me so much. Can’t exactly wedge the family into a 355 and the Mondial doesn’t appeal much to me. Not sure I could afford maintenance on a 456M.

For the inside of the tail light buckets I’m going to order up the lightweight plastic ones someone posted a link to and those are going to get a chrome paint job for sure.

So part of me wants to just disassemble the whole damn car and go through everything while it’s getting a full body respray. But the other part says that it looks good and runs well and to just enjoy it as is with larger projects as required. The only solution is to find a second 911 so I can have one as a driver while I have the other in pieces making everything perfect. I see how people wake up one day with half a dozen Porsches in the garage.

Ordered a couple Gs of stuff from Pelican last week and it’s trickling in… got this one thing I’m not sure what it is. What I had intended to order was the bumper to body seal because mine is cracked and terrible.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684007804.jpg

This seemed like the correct part and got ordered:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684007832.jpg

This is what came and I’m really not sure what it is… it’s 31 inches long and has a sort of felt like seal on the inside and is rigid with a rubber coating on the outside. Guess I’m gonna have to email Pelican and ask as I’m thinking they just shipped the wrong part. If anybody has an idea I’m curious where it might go.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684007984.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684008043.jpg

That’s a door window channel, but not for a 911.

Needless to say lots of secrets at the factory on the design of the air box, for example, the purpose of the ribbing both above and under, the latter in a lattice, the designers somehow wanted that section has to be strongly braced.

This needs to seal up airtight and checked regularly.

Another project done today… a known issue when I bought my car is that the odometer had recently died. If the PO had not been someone I know and trust I would have been a little more suspicious of what the true mileage might be but it was also backed up by some pretty recent paperwork that showed the mileage had recently been slightly less than current indication. But I wanted to get it fixed if for no other reason than to track my own mileage for maintenance purposes. Read a few threads and ordered up the appropriate gear from our host and jumped into the project.

I’m not going to rehash the entire project but I had read elsewhere that the trip odometer reset should pull right off which would facilitate needle removal. That might be the case for some folks cars but definitely not the case for mine. I messed with it for a long time until I decided it was likely going to end up broken pursuing that route. I ended up twisting the needle stop to stop after watching that technique on a YouTube video. In the video it was a pretty quick thing but for mine the speedometer needle needed probably 15 minutes of careful back and forth before it came off. I was really concerned I was going to break it and there didn’t seem to be any progress until it finally just popped off.

That is a very fine little post it’s mounted to:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684631332.jpg

From there it was relatively straightforward to continue disassembly and swap out the gear. I was greatly relieved that the new gear matched the old for tooth count.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684631514.jpg

I had previously checked the speedo against GPS and noted that it was about 6 mph high at 70 and I made a slight adjustment when reassembling but wanted to validate it before completing the job. I was a little nervous putting the speedo back in (only lightly pushed in) and taking it for a test drive without a face on but I’m glad I did.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684631765.jpg

As there is some slight lag with GPS I wanted to make sure I had an open area where I could hold a constant speed. After some very minor tweaks I think I now have it within about 1mph of actual and the odometer is now fully functional. It was a good day getting this project done and I made it home just ahead of a thunderstorm.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684632031.jpg

[QUOTE=REVerend;12004394]Another project done today… a known issue when I bought my car is that the odometer had recently died. If the PO had not been someone I know and trust I would have been a little more suspicious of what the true mileage might be but it was also backed up by some pretty recent paperwork that showed the mileage had recently been slightly less than current indication. But I wanted to get it fixed if for no other reason than to track my own mileage for maintenance purposes. Read a few threads and ordered up the appropriate gear from our host and jumped into the project.

I’m not going to rehash the entire project but I had read elsewhere that the trip odometer reset should pull right off which would facilitate needle removal. That might be the case for some folks cars but definitely not the case for mine. I messed with it for a long time until I decided it was likely going to end up broken pursuing that route. I ended up twisting the needle stop to stop after watching that technique on a YouTube video. In the video it was a pretty quick thing but for mine the speedometer needle needed probably 15 minutes of careful back and forth before it came off. I was really concerned I was going to break it and there didn’t seem to be any progress until it finally just popped off.

That is a very fine little post it’s mounted to:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684631332.jpg



I had previously checked the speedo against GPS and noted that it was about 6 mph high at 70 and I made a slight adjustment when reassembling but wanted to validate it before completing the job. I was a little nervous putting the speedo back in (only lightly pushed in) and taking it for a test drive without a face on but I’m glad I did.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684631765.jpg

As there is some slight lag with GPS I wanted to make sure I had an open area where I could hold a constant speed. After some very minor tweaks I think I now have it within about 1mph of actual and the odometer is now fully functional. It was a good day getting this project done and I made it home just ahead of a thunderstorm.

Hi, I also have a bit of discrepancy on my speedo. When you said you made a slight adjustment to the speedo, did you do that by adjusting the needle a little lower at rest?
That seems to be the only way to do it, but I wasn't sure and want to confirm with you.
Thx
Hugh

Yes, at least in my case where it was simply a matter of needle position and it showed ~5mph high at all range of speeds.

The speedometer mechanism/motor has stops at clockwise and counterclockwise range of its motion. To make an adjustment you simply hold onto the black center hub of the needle and twist it slightly against the stop. Apparently the needle itself is very fragile so don’t put any force against it.

Now having said that I probably wouldn’t have cracked open my speedometer to adjust it if it hadn’t needed the odometer repair. Mine was indicating on the high side which seems “better” from the perspective of not getting in legal trouble. It’s a bit of work uncrimping the ring to disassemble the thing. If you are cracking it open and it still has the original odometer gear I would be tempted to say just go ahead and replace that while you have it open.

The biggest difference in Ferrari and Porsche owners: at a meet up, the Ferrari owners all brag how few miles their cars have, the Porsche drivers talk about how many miles they have. I will turn 190,000 miles on mine in June, when I return from my 4th visit to California. I have driven it to 41 states and Canada in my 1985 911.

Nice… I would like to take some long road trips at some point but would prefer cooler weather given the somewhat anemic performance of the A/C.

Longest road trip attempted in a Ferrari was from Los Angeles to Monterey in a friend’s F40. Unfortunately there were some transmission issues and it had to go back to the shop. I have a few friends who drive their F cars a lot but it does seem to be a whole new level of pain when it comes to maintenance and reliability. That’s one of the big reasons I bought my 911 is I wanted something I could use with less fear and could fix myself more easily.

Hi REV I've had my speedo apart once to change that gear and of course I've had the needle off. Honestly I'm really not looking forward to doing it again.
It seems when I checked a few years ago my speedo was reading about 10% high but I'll go thru that excercise again with a gps to confirm how much error there is and take it from there.
Thx

The G body 911s have pitiful AC as factory delivered. No doubt. I fixed that with the full Griffith's AC upgrade. The only parts of my AC that are still stock are the front and rear condenser. I now have 4 condensers, and I am driving my 85 911 to Palm Springs next month. Palm Springs in June is gonna be hot!

The other big weakness, that is easy and cheap to fix, the electrical system. There are several things that Porsche failed to fuse. The front Condenser fan, the footwell blowers, the dash illumination are the important ones to put a simple fuse in there.

My wife's friends are always amazed when she tells them we are taking a 38 year old car with soon to be 190,000 miles on another long road trip. From northern Maine, to Key West, and this will be my 4th trip to California next month.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1684767897.jpg

Key west in July is is hot and humid. I had to turn the AC temp up as I got cold when the AC is on full blast.

The full Griffith's AC package is expensive, but likely less than a Ferrari engine out service to change the spark plugs.