Rotor questions - 1983
 

I ordered a a new Beru rotor from PP. Part# 930-602-902-00-m47

When comparing to the Beru rotor im replacing I see some very obvious differences

first, the one that is being replaced says EVL 087 JD (says made in Germany).
bought this one in 2019 and has same part# according to my old PP invoice

The new one says EVL 087 GD (says made in China on the box)

JD vs GD....does this make a difference for an 83SC original distributor?


The new one is the front one.....see the downward angle? Is this ok or is this defective or what?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685189872.jpg


The new one is on the right....
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685189883.jpg


Im in the middle of a tune up now so ill put the new one on and check back here later to see if anyone comments. Thanks

What was wrong with the first one?

here is another difference

new one is on the left

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1685190266.jpg

nothing that i know of. i’ve developed a flat spot at 2500 RPM which motivated me to change plugs, wires, rotor, cap and coil etc…..

That downward angle isn’t right…they were never made like that…usually dead straight. I’ve seen it once on a worn out rotor but assumed it was lifting away from the epoxy.

The big thing to watch for on these sc rotors is the resistance value. They have always been 5k ohm up until "recently". Now what you get when you order an sc rotor is actually a Carrera 3.2 rotor with less resistance. If you use the stock 6 pin box it’s a good idea to retain the correct resistance in the system for longevity of the box/coil. There’s a resistor available that goes "in" the coil wire to correct this issue.

Your original rotor looks to be in remarkable shape. Clean it up a bit, check the resistance and keep it.

Check the cap and clean it too. These original parts are much more durable and reliable than one would expect.

ok thanks. stuff i’m taking off is not original. a few years old but not made in china like the new ones.

new Beru OEM braided wires dot even fit on new Beru Cap. One keeps popping off and none sit all that well. no confidence that they will not come off when driving

Junk and a waste of Money and crap parts like this are making ownership of these cars less than fun

Probably popping off due to entrapped air. Maybe just keep some pressure on them for a minute or two.

You can barely get the rubber onto the cap. Someone else on YouTube mentions this. Saw it this morning. Oh well.

When putting the wires onto the cap stick a small allen key, like a 2mm into the rubber boot to create an escape for the air that’s going to get trapped and compressed which will force the boot to slide off. That way it’ll slide on and then you can pull the Allen key out and the boot won’t pop off due to trapped and compressed air.

I have both caps. Just measured them and the Beru is about .050 larger diameter. So, I can see where this might be a problem for some.

@Ramones - Sharing my data point. In this post/link, the last two fotos I show the boxes for the cap and rotor. I bought these from our host ~ 2 months ago.

ROTOR: The rotor box has a sticker label with part ID: "EVL 087" --- no "GD". I installed it on 4/15. Seems to be working OK.

CAP: did you get the same cap VK 1171? This one, the sticker on the box says "Made in Spain." I installed it, and plugged my existing plug wires to it. It is definitely a tight fit, but I didn't have issues w the wire popping back out.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1137700-1983-sc-reviving-after-4-years-dormant-3.html#post11974303

I think I tossed out the box, I’ll have to go check I don’t think the cap actually has a model # on it…just said Beru.

Can’t see the top of your rotor in your pics. Did it like like what I posted with the tip angles down?

What is odd is that the new Beru braided cables doesn’t fit well on the brands own cap. That’s the reason why I bought all the same brand stuff.

Here’s the guy that notes similar problems

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Beru wires came apart in me and the debris almost went into the spark plug hole. Toss them in the garbage get clewett or equivalent

Came apart how? I assume the rubber sleaves at the spark plug end broke into pieces?
How old were they?

Brand new wires out of the box
 

The wires were new in the box and installed maybe a couple of days.
I was tuning an MFI and checking and changing the plugs.
Pulled the #4 wire off the plug and do not remember if I pulled the plug or not but I happened to look at the connector and tried inserting a plug into it and it would not stay in place.
Hmm, so I looked into the head and parts were on the outer edge of the spark plug hole.

I used a scope and found metal parts that came loose. I think there also was the green resistor but not sure.
Using a magnet and a gripper tool i removed the parts out of the head.
I pulled them all off and tossed them into the garbage.
Bought Clewetts and found them to be well made though I tested each one before i installed them.

ok thanks. since i wont be changing plugs again for awhile, I will leave them since i just spent a couple hundred $ on them. Next plug change I will toss them and replace and never buy a Beru product again

Looks to me the contact is not embedded down on the new one for the potting to cover it like the old rotor is. This is the cause/issue with the downward angle. I'd not use it/return it/replace it.

its not work the trouble and expense to return it to PP but I took it out and put the old one back in

would you advise against keeping it in the car as an emergency spare to use on a very short term basis?