ATV Jack for Engine Drop

[arbita1]

Will this one work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=2792


Most guys seem to use this one.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950191000P?keyword=atv+jack

Although for $ 100 more it might be nice to have something light weight that I can easily store somewhere when not in use.

[toddu]

I've got the sears one, and it made dropping the engine pretty easy. I used the extension pads to a) reach the motor easier while the car was jacked up so high, b) gave a little extra room while dropping the jack all the way down to clear the parts of the engine and the jack frame.

Rolled very easily around. But, not sure I'd call it exactly light weight. I was hoping to hang it on the wall when I was done, but felt it was a little heavy for that. I'd buy it again though.

Todd

[cgarr]

They work well as long as you get the car high and remove the rear bumper helps too.

[Oh Haha]

I have that one and wasn't really thrilled with it for dropping a 911 engine.

I couldn't get it high enough to put the engine in place. We ended up using a floor jack.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Oh Haha

I have that one and wasn't really thrilled with it for dropping a 911 engine.

Which one?

[Oh Haha]

The Harbor Freight one.

I didn't remove my bumper so that may have been why it didn't work so well for me.
Sounds like others have had no problem with it.

I'd sell you mine but I think shipping it would cost more than you buying it locally.

[DUK]

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=lift+table

I like this one, even though you have to get the back of the car about 3 inches higher than if you use the atv jack. Plus you can use it for other things.

[arbita1]

Is 500lbs enough capacity though? Doesn't the engine/trans combo weigh about 650 lbs?

[unclebilly]

This is the best system for doing this... Don't really need to jack up tyhe car at all.

[fred cook]

I used the Sears aluminum ATV jack for my last engine drop. I bolted a piece of 2' x 2' 3/4" plywood on it and added a piece of 4"x4" for the center of the engine block to rest on. That way, there wasn't excessive pressure on the heat exchangers. I jacked up the rear of the car about half way, located the jack under the engine and raised it just enough to take weight off the engine and tranny mounts. Then I finished removing all the various wires, cables and lines, etc. and using a regular floor jack, raised the chassis off the engine. Once the engine was clear of the chassis, I finished raising the car, pulled the engine and gearbox out and then lowered the chassis to a "safe" height. This way I was not having to work under an unstable vehicle. The plywood base made the engine/transaxle assembly very stable and eliminated the worry of dropping it off the jack. Putting the engine/transaxle back in was just about as easy as removing it. Hope this helps you make an informed decision!

[Poor-sche Lover]

Funny you should ask. I have used that exact Harbor Freight one for several years without issue. It's a little challenging to get it deep enough to center the weight of the engine/transmission, but not too bad. However, just today, it seems to have shot craps. I have bled the jack, and topped up the oil, but it won't stay lifted under any weight. Needless to say, I'm shopping again.

[tharbert]

I have the "lower level" Sears jack that looks sneakingly like the harbor freight jack and have had no problems with it although some here have. Parts seem to be an issue.

That said, I can't see a safety bar on the aluminum Sears jack like is readily visible on the harbor freight jack. I LOVE that option. If it fails, it can only fall so far. And the max on mine is 1500#.

[arbita1]

I'm starting to re-think my method after much reading.

Now I'm leaning towards the engine adapter. It looks fool proof. My only thing is that my jack doesn't have the saddle plate that you can remove.

So I'm thinking about buying an extra jack. However I'd like to get something smaller that I can also use at autocross to change my tires.

My question is...will a small 2.5 ton jack with a max height of about 15" suffice for removing the engine?

[Zeke]

No. Not the one that you would take to the track anyway. That engine adapter is cool, but you can do it without. It's nice to have a buddy helping. The ATV and trans jacks just make it a bit easier for one person.

Modifying something like this makes more sense to me:


It raises up 24".

[arbita1]

This is the one I was looking at:

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00950165000P?vName=Tools&cName=Mechanics+Tools&sName=Lift+Equipment

[Dixie]

Will this one work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=2792


Most guys seem to use this one.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...yword=atv+jack

HF and Sears appear to use the ame supplier. So why not splurge and get the HF aluminum version? It's the same as the Crapsman (Craftsman) jack. I've used mine a dozen times with no real issue. My only complaints?
* It has a hair-pin release. Be careful turning the handle.
* It has about 1/4" floor clearance. Mine hangs up on the transition between the drive and garage.

[kristan]

I used the Harbor Freight one for my engine drop.
Nice thing is it lowers very smoothly.
We used some 2x4's to extend the range a bit
Otherwise your muffler is going to hit the hydraulic bottle.
We put it directly on a furniture dolly.
Also, I strongly recommend removing the bumper.

[J P Stein]

I use the HF ATV jack. It's a piece of cake with a bit of planning. First the cradle. .....

Then the 10 inch spacer block. This is also the last lift when the engine is under the car. .....


Load her in & up, block up, insert the spacer & up ya go. This thing is *stable*. .....

[gregwils]

The basic frame shape and dimensions of most ATV jacks are the same. Some may have better quality hydraulic jacks and heavier metal. Mine is actually a Goodyear, which I bought used for $75.

If you are working alone, the ATV jack makes removing the engine a one person job, although it always best to have a buddy for safety even if the buddy is not mechanical.

Someone mentioned it earlier in the thread, but you need to pay attention to where the engine sits compared to the jack frame when the jack is lowered. The first time I dropped my motor, I could not lower it all the way down because the muffller was hitting the jack frame . If this doesn't make any sense to you now, it will as soon as you lower your motor if it isn't properly positioned on the jack. I am actually going to extend the arms of my jack with some angle iron.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by gregwils

The basic frame shape and dimensions of most ATV jacks are the same. Some may have better quality hydraulic jacks and heavier metal. Mine is actually a Goodyear, which I bought used for $75.

If you are working alone, the ATV jack makes removing the engine a one person job, although it always best to have a buddy for safety even if the buddy is not mechanical.

Someone mentioned it earlier in the thread, but you need to pay attention to where the engine sits compared to the jack frame when the jack is lowered. The first time I dropped my motor, I could not lower it all the way down because the muffller was hitting the jack frame . If this doesn't make any sense to you now, it will as soon as you lower your motor if it isn't properly positioned on the jack. I am actually going to extend the arms of my jack with some angle iron.

That's why I think I'm going to go with the Craftsman aluminum one. It doesn't have the hydraulics in the way. At least it looks like it has more room in that area from the photos.