What is available for Idle Control Valves on 3.2
 

My 86 Coupe surges at idle. I suspect the ICV and dwill get into th details this week. Apparently, the part is NLA. I'll test mine but I'm fixing my projects hopefully for 20 years and prefer long tern repairs.

It looks like the part (93060616100) is NLA. Does anyone have an option except cleaning and hoping or finding a used one?

German company, very good products.

https://maf-shop.com/shop/iac/porsche-iac/porsche-911-idle-control-valve-1984-1994-porsche-oe-0280140501-also-fit-924-944/

Wonderful. Thank you.

Great info to have -

Also, a thank you from me.


Erik

For a simple test, read post #20 here; http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/360766-bench-testing-carrera-idle-control-valve.html

Thought I'd post an update. I bought the part from maf-shop after testing my current one and deciding that the current part wasn't moving as freely as it should.

I installed the new part and was initially excited because idle started at 1000 cold then settled below that. After driving and warming, there is a surge but not the surge is when warm and not when cold.

I noticed that the top hose is loose where it goes into the air intake. The original clamp either needs to be replaced or perhaps the entire hose is stiff, brittle and not fitting correctly.

I'll look later in the week but was hoping to have one task off the list.

junkman300SD, have you used the B C jumper method to set your initial idle? The '84-86 idle speed is 800 rpm, and the '87-89 is 880 rpm if the CO levels and idle switch are set.

I'm going to go through the fuel system tests methodically. I tried to just jump and it obviously didn't work. I have no idea whether the CO levels are correct. The car ran decently when warmed with the old ICV installed but not perfectly and surged when cold. Now, its the opposite - good when cold, surge at warm idle.

My new ICV is from maf-shop above.

I note that Greasy Fingers had similar results with the ICV.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kcTkFjOt8Kc&t=300s

The good indys are booked months out and I like having equipment to do most of my stuff.

Is there an easy DIY exhaust analyzer to set CO2 & HC? My searches have all lead to commercial analyzers that are over budget given how often I'll use it.

Forget about jumping the connector to set the idle, just turn the bypass screw clockwise until the idle is OK.
That's how I set my idle on my 3.2.

Hopefully, you don't have one of those "performance" chips installed, which can cause problems like what's happening.

What is available for Idle Control Valves on 3.2
 

I ended up picking up a $35 IAC from Amazon (OCPTY 2H1099). It’s the same one used on some Peugeots and Volvos at the time that also used L-Jetronic. Installed it, car started right up and idled down to 800rpm. Gotta test when warmed up. But I was having a somewhat stutters idle at cold and a 1000-1200 rpm surging idle when warm. I’ll have to test the longer term reliability of it, but it seems just fine for the price. Tested the new one between pins with a multimeter and got 43 ohms and 23 ohms. Old one tested at 40 and 21 (still within spec). But it seems on the shake test, it’s definitely feeling sluggish. I’m gonna clean it and keep the old one as a spare.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745779513.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1745779513.jpg

:)

I would use the factory process. the idea is to set the bypass so that the IAC is naturally in the mid position and has range in both directions to account for changing engine loads and still maintain the correct RPM.

For anyone with idle issues I would highly suggest doing a smoke test to ensure there are no intake leaks. Intake leaks are very common, with the age of the hosses and the fact that the 3.2 is using stacked intake manifold gaskets with a plastic spacer between them.

This! And seek out all possible vacuum leaks. The last time I had my engine out, I replaced all the vacuum hoses, and every connector. There were a few cracked parts and poor fitting hoses. Removing the intake and replacing the gaskets and was easy with the engine out.

It now idles just like the factory designed.

:)

Some are not happy with the "factory" setting, e.g. a too low of an idle!

Then you should get a chip programmed to give you a higher idle. if you are forcing a higher idle by backing out the base idle setting, you are purely exceeding the range of the idle control valve and eliminating the design of the dynamic engine idle control.

The correct way to achieve a higher idle would be to have Steve Wong or your favorite chip tuner build you a custom chip with your desired idle , then use the factory process to set your base idle at the new setting. therefore keeping the dynamic idle control with range to trim up and down as necessary.

Took my car out long enough to get it up to full operating temp. No cold or hot idle issues. It was no longer getting the warm 1000-1200 rpm surging idle and the cold idle definitely seemed smoother. The Amazon sourced IAC seems to perform well for anyone looking to save money over the Germany sourced ones and need one sooner.


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I have posted this elsewhere but here it is again. I chased a hunting idle, periodic engine stoppage and all sorts of other idle or running issues. Replaced the ICV with one that was posted above, changed the O2 sensor and the head temp sensor that was a royal PITA. Was the idle adjustment screw that had worked its way lose letting in too much air. Fixed that and no more issues.

Laughable! Have you ever done any troubleshooting on a 911 3.2 DME ECM?

Then some can do what ever they want, its they're car, still doesn't make it the right way to change it!