What can you tell me about my engine
 

I am new to the aircooled world and I know many of these cars have had some unique quirks and mods over the decades they have been on the road. I am wondering if there is anything noticeable about my engine bay? There looks to be some oil residue below but no drips on the driveway after a week of coming and going (I haven't picked up, or seen, the car yet but it's in the hands of a trusted friend).

The engine has been rebuit

What I know:
2.7 liter
Turbo valve covers
pressure fed tensioners
five blade fan
I don't see thermal reactors? The car might never have had them.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720296433.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720296433.jpg
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Hard to say. As I recall, your car is a 1977 911S. It would be helpful to us if you add your car year and model to your signature and show your location.

If it was a USA car, it did have Thermal reactors but not now.

Your car came with "factory AC". I see the original red R12 AC lines as well.

The blue coil may not be correct for the stock CDI Ignition but hard to tell.

Please add some top side pictures of the motor and surrounding area.

1977 911S

I guess I should have previewed that first post because some of the photos didn't upload. Try this:

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it does not look too bad..as Harry said ..more pics..
How does it shift?
Looks like your clutch Omega spring is not fully extended , to correct it..remove the cir-clip on little arm remove the arm and pry the clutch arm with the Omega spring back-it will move the clutch pedal in the car up..after install back the little arm with spring and adjust the play---you can find on internet the correct way to adjust the clutch..
ivan

Looks good. Stop worrying about the cooling and drive it. If you have a problem, fix it then.

FWIW, I find that my early 911 runs better with NON ethanol fuel. Your motor and most importantly, your rubber fuel components, will appreciate it.

This picture appears to show a missing nut on the intake manifold:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1720298297.jpg

Ethanol free gas is no longer available in Canada sadly.

I'm picking the car up next week!

I’m in Ontario and I purchased some high test at a shell station couple days ago and on the pump it stated that the high test contained no ethanol.
Thanks
Mike

Out of curiosity, where is the car coming from?

I can't seem to find it in BC. A google search says there are new federal law so maybe it's phasing out.

The car spent the last 42 years in Calgary.

Did you check with this web site? https://www.pure-gas.org/. They list some places in BC.

If you have to use E10, always add Sta-bil Marine or Sta-bil 360 to the fill up. The issue with E10 is corrosion of the mild steel components and rapid degradation of elastomers (aka rubber) wetted by the fuel. Sta-bil will reduce the corrosive effects to the steel but nothing will protect the elastomers. You can get E10 compatible fuel hose and you should verify that your hoses are compatible. The rubber diaphragms in the various CIS parts are another story.

I think the CIS fuel lines may have been upgraded at some point. My recollection is that there was the option for either plastic lines or hard-plumbed steel lines. Flex-covered lines like in the photos were common on Audi's in the mid-70's but I don't recall seeing those on 911's.

Motor mount washers may be upside down:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/1027436-engine-mount-washers.html

It looks like you had stock exhaust with the EGR and the air injection. Both have been removed. You have the 3-into-1 manifolds that are installed where the thermal reactors would go. Like Harry said, if this was a native Canada car you probably didn't have those, but the presence of the EGR remnants make me think that thermal reactors were probably installed at one point.

The CIS lines from the fuel distributor to the heads in the car look to be rubber covered polyamide which is E10 comoatible. However many of the other wetted CIS parts are elastomers which are not E10 compatible.

I'm pretty sure the factory never used those 3-into-1 manifolds. If the car was built without thermal reactors, it would have had the normal heat exchangers bolted directly to the heads. So I think highly likely there were thermal reactors.

You should seal that hole in the engine tin at lower left where the air pump piping used to go down under the engine. The engine tin has a seal around the perimeter to keep hot air from the exhaust from getting up into the engine bay. That hole will let some hot air through.

Mark

No leaks !

- Thermal reactors gone, good…the exhaust manifolds are aftermarket Bursh manifolds (which are no longer available), also called “candelabras”… I have them on my 2.7. These allowed for keeping original heat exchangers once TR’s are removed. Certain to get better flow and less heat.

**BTW - If you see a little red EGR indicator lens on the dash between speedo and tach, it could be disconnected or removed altogether and plugged. If it lights up, the reset button on a little black counter box and is behind speedo, I believe it turns on every 15-20,000 miles, simply a reminder and doesn’t affect engine performance whatsoever.

- The air pump and air injection lines were removed. The hole to the left of distributor is where the line connect (also called octopus) down to the cylinders, obviously the cylinders openings were plugged.

- You have hydraulic tensioner oilers and 930 aluminum valve covers - both great upgrade modifications.

Looks to be in good shape for your trip back. Then get an 11 blade fan on the wishlist!

Here’s a pic of my highway run at around 65-75 mpg at +75°F…notice the oil level, temp and pressure…

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Great information here everyone.

I'll fill that air pump hole in the tin.

Good to know about red EGR. My gauges appear to be in German which may be from it being a tourist delivery car. Not sure.

Spencer

Actually, they all have gauges in German (like Druck). The only gauge that varies is the speedometer (km/hr or miles/hr).

Mark