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Location: behind the redwood curtain, (humboldt county) california
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I'd like to add a note or two to what John had to say above about the turbo tie rod install.
1) The big "washer" has also been called a spacer that goes between the inner tie rod end and the rack. This is a positive stop for the rack, turning left or right and keeps the inner tie rod end from hitting the bushing and snap ring, and possibly keep the pinion from trying to climb over the end teeth on the rack - to the detriment of the pinion teeth.
2) IMHO, the only thing that keeps the rack from rotating is the mating of the pinion gear to the rack, so it is, i believe critical to counterhold the rack when trying to loosen or tighten the tie rod ends. I did this by putting a wrench on the rack and counterholding that wrench in a vise, then tightening the tie rod end on the opposite end. I found it necessary to grind down the sides of an open end wrench, (1& 1/16?) to fit between the "STOP washer" and the flats on the end of the rack.
3) On my 74 coupe, the ball bearings that support the pinion in the housing, were open/UNSEALED. IHMO, this is a bad idea, because the bottom pinion bearing sits in the bottom, (lowest level) of the rack housing, so any water or wear debris is going to foul the bearing. A double sealed bearing, (both sides) is a much better idea.

While the rack was out, i installed a "quick rack and pinion". This is great on the road, but a bit stiff in parking/very low speed maneuvering.

Old 05-20-2025, 01:41 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zuch View Post
I use the harbor freight screw ball joint separator. No damage and no whacking required. I haven't tried it, but you shouldn't have to remove the outer tie rod.
I can't quite visualize how I'm going to get the inner tie rod out of the rack without separating the outer tie rod end from the upright/strut first. I don't think there's enough thred in the outer tie rod end to just back the inner one out of the rack, plus I'm fighting two threads if I do that.

I'm after what I can most easily do in the car, and has the lowest risk of messing with toe. If I separate the outer tie rod end and then remove the whole assembly from the rack, toe won't change because the tie rod length hasn't been touched.

Are both ends of the rack (and the inner tie rod end) right-hand threaded?
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Old 05-20-2025, 02:16 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #22 (permalink)
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Location: Williston, Vermont
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Yes, separate the outer tie rod from the knuckle. Part of the toe setting is how far into the rack the inner rod is screwed in, so by removing the inner, you will potentially change your toe after you reinstall.
Old 05-21-2025, 05:59 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #23 (permalink)
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I just looked at the inner end and realized that since it’s a ball joint it is perfectly possible to remove the inner end from the rack without touching the outer end. Not sure which way is easier, but I’m getting a screw-style ball joint separator anyway since I’ll need it for my Fiat.
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Old 05-22-2025, 05:14 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #24 (permalink)
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That HF tool was great and that was probably the easiest ball joint separation I’ve ever done.

I am ready to loosen the inner turbo tie rod but puzzling over how to do it while holding the rack in place to avoid putting undue stress on the Delrin block or the pinion gear.

There really isn’t clearance to put a wrench on the flat of the rack to hold it. Only idea I have so far is to go get another 32mm headset wrench, pull the boot off the other side and hold the other inner tie rod. Not sure if having a helper put a load on the steering wheel would put enough load on it to hold it.

Happy to hear ideas. I am really trying to avoid taking the rack out of the car if I don’t absolutely have to.
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Old 05-26-2025, 09:01 AM
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Got it! Not sure what did it but suddenly it was loose.

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Old 05-26-2025, 09:38 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #26 (permalink)
 
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I used a really big pair of channel locks to hold onto the rack while I was torquing the inner tie rod. Turning the steering towards the direction you are working helps expose more of the rack and give you a different angle at it.
Old 05-27-2025, 05:07 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #27 (permalink)
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Thought of that, but didn’t have anything that was big enough and would fit in the space available. I got it as tight as I could, and put some blue thread locker on the threads. Happy to have this job done. It was a bit tricky to get the sleeve back in with the new bushing rings on it - they’re just a hair bigger than the original ones - but I got it done and got the new retaining ring in.

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Old 05-27-2025, 05:53 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #28 (permalink)
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