Valve Lash Adjustment Problem
 

Hi,

I have a 1977 911 S with a 2.7, I am working on adjusting the valve lash for the first time.

This started because I hear a ticking noise from the driver side when the car was starting, it seemed to go away as the car's rpm increased. I haven't changed the oil in a couple of years and figured this would be a good time to change the oil and adjust the valve lash.

I purchased the Rennline Kirk Valve Adjustment tool to make the job easier.

The issue I'm having seems to be with cylinder #1 intake, there doesn't seem to be any play or movement in the intake valve it seems to be stuck.

There is play in the cylinder #1 exhaust valve, as I move the fan through to cylinder 6, 2, 4, 3 and 5, I can feel some play in the intake valves.

Also, the rotor I have isn't what I was expecting, I'm guessing this aligns to cylinder #1 at TDC.

Any thoughts?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747678595.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1747678607.jpg

If a valve is stuck and I assume you mean seized in the guide, the engine would not turn over. If you are saying that their is no lash between rocker and valve, then then that is another issue. You of course can adjust that, but need to understand why the lash went away. If the distributer is installed correctly then the rotor contact will point at the notch on the distributer rim at tdc #1. Bob

are you sure you are at tdc??
look here for 77 911S
https://www.early911sregistry.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=126875&stc=1&d=1213708 794

Thanks, as I look at the picture more, I don't think I'm at TDC, i'll get back into it in a bit and provide an update later.

You may be at overlap, where both valves are expected to be open. Give it another turn.

the picture that you are showing us shows that it is not at TDC.
if you're not sure then stick a shortened chopstick or something that will fit into the spark plug hole which you can cut to length and hold against the piston for that last little bit and watch it follow the piston as you turn the engine with a wrench, also that last little bit.

There is no adjustment available in the distributor, you’re a tooth off.
At the point on the pulley you’re close enough to have a loose rocker or else you’re too tight and riding the cam all the way around, looking to burn the valve because it never truly is closed.
Bruce

I wasn't really at TDC, once I figured that out, I was able to adjust the valve lash appropriately using the Rennline Kirk tool