I bit the bullet and tackled tonight. First compared attachment at clutch pedal… looks like it was OVERTHREAded at the pedal. 17-22mm of thread installed. I compared to Joe engineer post picture showing 17-22mm depth

So I hoped all at the pedal was second order and went back to trans. Two full rotations at the transmission and I can hear the spring at the fork moving 2.5” in, I could be missing silent movements in clutch but it’s good enough for tonight. I’d estimate engagement movement moved 3”+ up from floor

Surprisingly I think the assist spring on the pedal assembly contributes more to that non-linear feel. Without that in place the clutch feels significantly more linear, but it becomes quite a chore to hold the pedal down.

Edit: And it's the assist spring on the pedal that actually lifts the pedal and introduces the dead space at the start (which you can of course adjust). Without the assist spring the pedal doesn't go all the way up and can flop around in that dead space.

I was thinking bigger, but 1/4” would work. Always coarse thread in soft metals or plastics.

Make eure the surface is flat and perpendicular to the hole so a washer and locking nut sit properly.

If you lived near I would say bring it by my shop.

I agree the springs contribute to the non-linear feel.

The 1mm gap in the OEM setup when the clutch pedal moves but the fork doesn't is dead space, in fact literally.

Adding the springs on top of that further decouples the forces felt at the pedal from the movement.

The earlier setup dispenses with most of this complexity and I suspect is preferred in a non-street setup.

Still strikes me as odd that pin would shear off just like that by itself, the spring isn't that strong.

Taking a closer look at your pic, what is that circled in green ?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750277110.jpg

@ PMAX
I’m sure something was ran over and brokeThe nib off. It certainly wasn’t the spring breaking the nib. Some rock somewhere, or some dip**** ‘mechanic misplaced his jack and “CRACK”
Your green circle is just a trick of light, there’s no crack or flaking going on there.

Here’s some other photos from the pedal cluster. I took it out for 30 minute drive and by the last 10 minutes I was back to shifting at 4K confidently. A few more drives before I’m confident. I do feel its engagement is raised off the floor slightly from before, but I could be hallucinating. I’m not sure you can actually change the position, or if it’s just shortening the amount of travel before engagement.

Sounds like you're back in business.

Congrats.

Thanks Pmax

Been working hard under the car in spare minutes and no time for posting. Had my car to my mechanic for inspection. He used his patented air hammer vibration and the big arm got loosed up finally after 1/2-3/4hr of coaxing. Glad it was him. It would have taken me 10 hrs if I didn’t break something first.

We set it and it was good. Then I got neurotic and went hog wild and set the proper 17-22mm at the pedal, reset at the trans. My new spring arrived and went through the heart wrenching how do I tackle spring…

I went as minimal as possible… I drilled a 3/32 through the housing and slipped the spring in. It is the least invasive and strongest way, while it doesn’t look factory, a broken nib isn’t factory either and tapping and setting a screw in factory location is still possible, though I see no reason.
Height feels great and I’m rolling with 0.8mm for dead space and love it. It’s very tight!http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1750565597.jpg