Rauch and Spiegel Cross Shaft Removal

Wasatch 911S · 06-19-2025, 04:08 PM

I am in the process of removing my G50 gearbox from my 3.2 Carrera. The good news is someone already installed a Rauch and Spiegel cross shaft bearing kit. The bad news is that the idiot put the cross pin in backwards and now the end with the internal threads is on the wrong side in the closed bushing and there is nothing to attach to on the shaft on the exposed side where the bolt is supposed to go in to retain it and remove it.

I knew something was wrong when I removed the retainer bracket from the gearbox and there was an empty hole where the bolt should go through and thread into the pin. I tried a strong magnet, but no luck there.

Please let me know if you any suggestions to pull the cross pin out. I was thinking of drilling it and tapping it, however it may just spin in the bearings. There is nothing to grab onto.

Wasatch 911S · 06-19-2025, 04:22 PM

On second thought that maybe the factory greased needle bearing not the R&S kit I am looking at? Not sure if that helps or makes it even worse.

dannobee · 06-19-2025, 05:46 PM

That doesn't look like the Rauch and Spiegel kit. The R&S kit has bushings.

https://www.rauchandspiegel.com/product/clutch-release-shaft-bearing-kit/

It's been awhile, but I thought the hole was drilled on the other side, accessible when you remove the starter. Not big enough for the shaft to fit through, but big enough to drive the bearing out. And the shaft.

Wasatch 911S · 06-19-2025, 08:00 PM

You are correct in that it is not the R&S upgrade. It looks like the factory upgrade, hence the rubber cap I removed that fits into the retaining strap instead of a bolt. The side of the pin with the threaded hole used for installing / removing the pin is on the wrong side where there is a blind support for that bearing. I can see the back of the case blind pin support through the starter hole, but again no opening there to push the pin out.

I thought about using a right angle drill to put a hole in the blind busing support to drive out the pin, but even if I could drill through the aluminum support using the starter hole, I don't have a straight shot for a punch to push it out.

What a nightmare from an avoidable mistake!

dannobee · 06-19-2025, 10:32 PM

The R&S kit requires you to remove the factory bearing. Get a piece of scrap steel that will fit through the hole, then put a bend it it so that you can tap the shaft out. Once that is out you can work on getting the bearing out. I've done a few in the past but I don't recall what tool I used. Most likely a long punch that got "massaged" to fit around the corner.

Wasatch 911S · 06-20-2025, 06:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannobee

The R&S kit requires you to remove the factory bearing. Get a piece of scrap steel that will fit through the hole, then put a bend it it so that you can tap the shaft out. Once that is out you can work on getting the bearing out. I've done a few in the past but I don't recall what tool I used. Most likely a long punch that got "massaged" to fit around the corner.

So are you suggesting I go ahead and drill a hole into the blind side shaft support end through the starter hole? I don't think a small hole will weaken the support if I am careful given the other side is full open to push the pin in. Thanks.

dannobee · 06-20-2025, 06:37 AM

This is how it looks from the starter side.

porschedude996 · porschedude996's Garage

Is this R&S an upgrade from OEM Needle Bearings?

dannobee · 06-20-2025, 07:54 AM

Yes, an upgrade. The OEM needle bearing removal and update to bushings was covered in service bulletin 8902. The R&S kit updates to the oillite bronze bushings without the need to drill out the cross shaft bosses in the trans case.

From the factory, one needle bearing is the thru style (for the shaft to pass through) and the other side (starter side) is blind.

Someone installed the shaft backward, leaving a precarious task for the next guy as there are no threads in that side of the shaft for which to install the bolt and remove the shaft. Removing the shaft allows the throwout bearing fork to drop down and allows the engine to be separated from the trans.

If access to the clutch cover/pressure plate bolts is possible through the slave cylinder hole or starter hole, you could remove the 9 bolts and separate the two. Just guessing here as I've never had to do it that way.

Wasatch 911S · 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dannobee

This is how it looks from the starter side.

Thanks for the excellent photo. I see what you are saying now. And yes if the previous "mechanic" would have installed the needle bearing upgrade correctly he should have bored all the way through the starter side support, but he didn't. I do not have that opening on the starter side of the shaft to knock it out. Really puts me a tough spot.

That is an excellent idea to remove the PP, TO bearing, Fork / shaft with the gearbox by undoing all the PP bolts through the starter opening! That would at least give me better access to drill or push out the shaft. I will let you know how that goes.

Packin4 · Packin4's Garage

Not sure if your case has been drilled or not but R&S makes their current kit to work with either drilled or un-drilled case. I recently bought the latest R&S shaft kit and it now comes with Torlon bushings rather than sintered bronze. Torlon requires no lubrication and is tough stuff so it does not get gummed up with clutch dust/dirt. I test fit it and it's smoother than butter, final install pending. Longevity in a clutch shaft use is unproven but specs/uses of Torlon looks promising. Good luck on your extraction....

porschedude996 · porschedude996's Garage

Is there room to start a tapp in the hole. The tapp would probably just catch enough matter from maybe pull it out?

Wasatch 911S · 06:33 AM

So my nightmare finally came to an end with some amazing help from Rauch and Spiegal, even though these were not their parts. I would not wish this situation on my worst enemy. I was never able to find anyone that has encountered this problem.

First, you can remove the PP and TOB bearing with the gearbox by unbolting all 9 bolts from the PP via the starter hole while you rotate the engine. You have to completely remove them one at a time because if you don't the bolts will interfere with the case protrusion into the bell-housing when you go to rotate the engine. This at least let me separate the gearbox from the engine, however the PP / TOB /Clutch Fork / Pin were still attached to the gearbox with still no way to remove the pin.

Next I used two large C-clamps to hold the PP against the case. This does not compress the TOB retaining spring enough to remove the wire retaining ring. With help I was finally able to reach in with a pry bar and leverage against the case to push the TOP towards PP thereby giving just enough clearance to the Fulcrum washer to pry the wire retainer out and remove the PP / TOB from the bell-housing.

Next I used vise grips to grab the pin and knock it and one needle bearing out the open side. I still need to remove the closed needle bearing out of the blind bearing holder ring before I can re-assemble clutch, including the new R&S clutch release parts.