Never Skip the PPI: $51K Car, $44K in Repairs - Need Advice

[toniwonkanobi]

This thread is full of such positivity. I love it!

[myamoto1]

Originally Posted by johnnythunderr

Unfortunately, I really had nothing to go off of at the time except Google search recommendations. Yet another live an learn moment.

I'll check Heckmann & Theimann in the morning. I've got a second inspection now scheduled with Steve's Imports later in the month, but I could easily change that over to any other suggested shop. I called Marque this morning to see about an inspection there, but their fee was $550, which was the highest of any place I've called in town.

It's up to you, but you said your mechanically inclined, so I would skip another PPI and do the following:

Oil change will will allow the following:

• check oil for sparkles (metal bits)
• pull valve covers (buy new gaskets ahead of time)
• once valve covers are off, you can check for broken studs
• valve adjustment

Crawl under your car and check (snap some pics to share) the transaxle bushings. As others have said, those are super easy to change. Then head to the back and check the motor mount bushings (same bushing as the transaxle). Also super easy to replace. Do not get caught up in the buying poly super stiff or solid mount bushings. Just get stock rubber replacements for both (4 in total). Once you've driven the car in anger enough times, you can determine if you need stiffer mounts.

If shifting is a challenge, buy the coupler and replace that as well. The $3-500 you'll spend on another PPI should cover the cost of everything above. You'll know for sure if you need a top-end rebuild (broken studs) and start the journey of getting to know your car and more importantly how to fix your car. All of the above is less than a day's effort.

As others have said, get a manual (I might have an extra), get Wayne's 101 Projects book and lean on this forum and local Pelicans. Harry, Pete and I are local enough to you, along with a bunch of others. I had about 15 locals helping me trouble shoot my DME. We're a pretty good group of gear heads. Introduce yourself over on the local thread:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pacific-northwest-us-wa-id-ut-hi-ak/500446-oregon-pdx-beers-burgers-second-thursday-every-month.html

[Matt Monson]

Send me a pm with your name and address. I’ll send you these manuals for the price of postage. I have all the factory manuals for myself and these books just sit around not being used.

[faverymi]

Originally Posted by myamoto1

It's up to you, but you said your mechanically inclined, so I would skip another PPI and do the following:

Oil change will will allow the following:

• check oil for sparkles (metal bits)
• pull valve covers (buy new gaskets ahead of time)
• once valve covers are off, you can check for broken studs
• valve adjustment

Crawl under your car and check (snap some pics to share) the transaxle bushings. As others have said, those are super easy to change. Then head to the back and check the motor mount bushings (same bushing as the transaxle). Also super easy to replace. Do not get caught up in the buying poly super stiff or solid mount bushings. Just get stock rubber replacements for both (4 in total). Once you've driven the car in anger enough times, you can determine if you need stiffer mounts.

If shifting is a challenge, buy the coupler and replace that as well. The $3-500 you'll spend on another PPI should cover the cost of everything above. You'll know for sure if you need a top-end rebuild (broken studs) and start the journey of getting to know your car and more importantly how to fix your car. All of the above is less than a day's effort.

As others have said, get a manual (I might have an extra), get Wayne's 101 Projects book and lean on this forum and local Pelicans. Harry, Pete and I are local enough to you, along with a bunch of others. I had about 15 locals helping me trouble shoot my DME. We're a pretty good group of gear heads. Introduce yourself over on the local thread:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pacific-northwest-us-wa-id-ut-hi-ak/500446-oregon-pdx-beers-burgers-second-thursday-every-month.html

Probably one of the most non bias honest useful advice...

And drive it and re asses over the winter.

[fallingat120mph]

Originally Posted by myamoto1

It's up to you, but you said your mechanically inclined, so I would skip another PPI and do the following:

Oil change will will allow the following:

• check oil for sparkles (metal bits)
• pull valve covers (buy new gaskets ahead of time)
• once valve covers are off, you can check for broken studs
• valve adjustment

Crawl under your car and check (snap some pics to share) the transaxle bushings. As others have said, those are super easy to change. Then head to the back and check the motor mount bushings (same bushing as the transaxle). Also super easy to replace. Do not get caught up in the buying poly super stiff or solid mount bushings. Just get stock rubber replacements for both (4 in total). Once you've driven the car in anger enough times, you can determine if you need stiffer mounts.

If shifting is a challenge, buy the coupler and replace that as well. The $3-500 you'll spend on another PPI should cover the cost of everything above. You'll know for sure if you need a top-end rebuild (broken studs) and start the journey of getting to know your car and more importantly how to fix your car. All of the above is less than a day's effort.

As others have said, get a manual (I might have an extra), get Wayne's 101 Projects book and lean on this forum and local Pelicans. Harry, Pete and I are local enough to you, along with a bunch of others. I had about 15 locals helping me trouble shoot my DME. We're a pretty good group of gear heads. Introduce yourself over on the local thread:
https://forums.pelicanparts.com/pacific-northwest-us-wa-id-ut-hi-ak/500446-oregon-pdx-beers-burgers-second-thursday-every-month.html

Originally Posted by Matt Monson

Send me a pm with your name and address. I’ll send you these manuals for the price of postage. I have all the factory manuals for myself and these books just sit around not being used.

Good stuff you two.




Erik

[johnnythunderr]

Originally Posted by Winter

Shifting - you mentioned getting a Numeric or similar. I was thinking the same, but replaced my bushings while also installing a “Karsten Spring” and an “Ultimate Shift Rod Bushing”, both products developed by forum members here. I’m no longer considering Numeric and the money I’m saving will be sent on other things for the car. You may want to try these inexpensive mods as they (in my experience) are great. Do a search of the forums to learn more, including where to purchase.

Just ordered both, on top of the original bushing kit. Thanks for the recommendation!

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by fallingat120mph

Good stuff you two.




Erik

Johnny, The Bentley Manual (next best thing to the factory manuals) would be an excellent addition to your library as well.

[pmax]

Yes, get the Bentley from our host, the best reference other than factory manuals.

While you're at it, buy some oil, both engine and tranny, filters, washers etc.

Spare fuel pump relay, I probably forgot something.

Originally Posted by toniwonkanobi

This thread is full of such positivity. I love it!

We haven't gotten to oil selection yet !

[johnnythunderr]

Originally Posted by pmax

We haven't gotten to oil selection yet !

Oh no... I hope there's not a limit on number of forum pages here...

[HarryD]

FWIW.

If his motor issue is JUST a bad copper cylinder base gasket and head studs. Johnny may be able to get away with removing the motor, Taking the heads and cylinders off, clean up the cylinders, replace any bad studs, and put it back together. He may or may not need to get a valve job as well.

[johnnythunderr]

Originally Posted by HarryD

FWIW.

If his motor issue is JUST a bad copper cylinder base gasket and head studs. Johnny may be able to get away with removing the motor, Taking the heads and cylinders off, clean up the cylinders, replace any bad studs, and put it back together. He may or may not need to get a valve job as well.

I was actually falling asleep thinking just this last night. My only concern is that if cylinders were out of round or if there were any other issues, I'd be in for a full top-end rebuild and, as mentioned earlier in the thread, no shop would want me dropping off a box of parts. Also, I hear that top-end reassembly can be quick tricky on these things and I'm not sure I'm yet willing to take that risk.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by johnnythunderr

Oh no... I hope there's not a limit on number of forum pages here...

Not sure but this may help your thought process:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/367300-ultimate-motor-oil-thread-why-we-hate-cj4-sm-oils.html

FWIW, the current EZ answer is Valvoline VR1 20W50 and Mobil 1 5W-50. The LiquiMoly oils at Halsey are a strong third.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by johnnythunderr

I was actually falling asleep thinking just this last night. My only concern is that if cylinders were out of round or if there were any other issues, I'd be in for a full top-end rebuild and, as mentioned earlier in the thread, no shop would want me dropping off a box of parts. Also, I hear that top-end reassembly can be quick tricky on these things and I'm not sure I'm yet willing to take that risk.

Agree. That is why I let my pro do certain things. I do not feel comfortable looking at my parts ad deciding if they need to be replaced, renewed, or just reused. The Pro has seen numerous ones and knows the difference.

[nickelplated5s]

Rothsport if you can get in. A&P otherwise, which I use. Rationale I'll PM only. HarryD has some private guru that he won't share with us in the PNW.

[Old H2S]

First clean and tighten ALL the grounds on the car and learn where they are and replace any that are not perfect.
Fast, easy, cheap, this will be a step ahead of 90% of the people on this site and make the car start better and many problems will go away.

[myamoto1]

Originally Posted by nickelplated5s

Rothsport if you can get in. A&P otherwise, which I use. Rationale I'll PM only. HarryD has some private guru that he won't share with us in the PNW.

A&P has been awesome in the past, but I can't remember which one but either A or P is no longer there. I've never used them personally, but my FiL has used them a ton and they've always been honest and affordable for the work they do.

I know HarryD's secret, but can't share for fear of losing the ability to call in the calvary when needed

[rwest]

Sounds like you have some great advice and that you are plenty capable of doing most of the needed work.

I will add that the transmission and motor mounts are not only easy to do, but may also be contributing to bad shifting.

[nickelplated5s]

Audi & Porsche AKA A&P is still there on 82nd. Al still owns the shop which is where my motor is sitting. Not his fault, the MFI pump is out for a rebuild.

Myamoto, someone in your town just got a 912E. He posted over on 912BBS.

[myamoto1]

Originally Posted by nickelplated5s

Audi & Porsche AKA A&P is still there on 82nd. Al still owns the shop which is where my motor is sitting. Not his fault, the MFI pump is out for a rebuild.

Myamoto, someone in your town just got a 912E. He posted over on 912BBS.

I couldn't remember if it was Al or Paul that was still there. Either way, they had always been upfront, honest and very helpful with my FiL.

I'll have to see if I can figure out who the new kid in town is. Or maybe it's just and old kid with a new toy!

[johnnythunderr]

Good lord that’s a beautiful 912. I saw a similar one in yellow a month or two ago at John’s Marketplace here in town. I wonder if it was the Avant Garde guys making rounds or if it was another local one.