Brake Line Replacement, Need to Drop Trans?
 

https://pmbperformance.com/cdn/shop/...g?v=1626381468

I have a rounded fitting on brake line No. 39 Shown on the above Illustration (actually did it 20 years ago when I replaced the rubber brake line).

Do I need to drop the transmission??

I don’t think so. Just need to get it up in the air. And use a flare wrench.

It may not be pretty, but can you finagle the new line over the trans or bend a straight brake line to make it work?

A new brake line might not be in the correct shape by the time it gets to you.

+1above

Agree, but with the following correction…

“A new brake line will not be in the correct shape by the time it gets to you.”

UPDATE: Trick tool saved the Day
 

Was able to use the existing brake line, which had a rounded flare nut. This tool was the savior (for right now):

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1756667722.jpg

https://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_WTD130_pg24.htm

I received the new brake line as well (all in good order). It will go in this fall when I overhaul the rear suspension. I intend to return it to the original 1971 steel s trailing arms. I will be putting the aluminum arms up for sale.

Dan

^^^ The link doesn’t work, but that’s an interesting pair of vice grips.

In the same situation right now as well. All forms of therapy have not worked getting these lines off..heat via torch, PB blaster, WD40, line wrenches, leverage pipes attached to said line wrench, vice grips once the nuts inevitably rounded off, pipe wrenches, literally everything. Its been 3 weeks of off and on trying to the point where now all the hard lines have just starting twisting on themselves. The one soft line I got off (connection at 27) took 2 weeks and I found the PO or whoever did it also used red thread lock so I assume the combination of red thread lock + who knows how long water was left in the brake fluid caused the junctions to self weld to each other..

Figured this was as good a time as ever to replace brake lines and new clutch since I'm removing the trans + engine.

You *might* be able to support the trans with a jack and remove the brace and mounts to access the coupler (#37) to get the fittings off there - I was under there yesterday and was thinking about doing that as well since the coupler sits right above the brace but I opted to drop the engine and trans for my specific situation

*edit*, just realized you managed to break it free. Good job

I changed the link to Pelican, but this model is available for half at other sources.