OK how do I change my M.F.I. Belt?

[FenderBender]

Yes I looked over all the M.F.I. stuff, searched for it and have not found how to do this. Please point me in the right direction. Or is it so easy I do not need to read about it?

[Flat6pac]

Haynes Manual Chapter 2 Section 32 BOSCH FUEL INJECTION..pump drive belt renewal

Worked in the early 80s for me

Bruce

[FenderBender]

I think I have that book did not even think of it? Looked in 101 tips and the engine rebuilding book. OOPs Had a brain fart.

Thanks

[Jeff Higgins]

Start by making sure the "FE" mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the timing mark on the fan shroud. Make sure it is lined up after cylinder #4 has reached TDC.

Jack the back of the car up and remove the left rear wheel. Take the hose for the warm up solenoid off of the heat exchanger and tin so it is out of the way. Disconnect the throttle rod from the bellcrank on the stack and the bellcrank on the transmission and get it out of the way. It goes through the belt, so it has to come off. Now unbolt the piece of cover tin that goes over the belt.

You should now be able to see the belt. You have two options from here. Either loosen the pump base nuts and slide it as far left as possible, slackening the belt so you can remove it, or just remove the cam pulley. I prefer the latter, for a number of reasons.

First, the left rear base nut on the pump is a real bear to access. You will need a swivel foot socket, and will probably need to remove at least the barometric cell, if not the #1 and #2 injector lines to get to that nut. No fun. Second, even with the pump as far left as its base slots allow, the new belt may not go over the pulleys. It's pretty darn tight.

I find it far easier to simply remove the camshaft pulley. There are only two bolts holding it on. Granted, if the new belt winds up too lose, you are going to have to loosen those base nuts to move the pump right to tighten it. Merely loosening that left rear base nut is, however, much easier than removing it and then reinstalling it.

Make sure you have not rotated the pump pulley by putting the new belt on it. Once it is back on, just put its cover, then the throttle rod, then the hose, then the wheel back on and you're done.

[FenderBender]

Jeff

Thanks for the great write up on that.
The Haynes manual calls for removing the left heat exchanger? I do not want to do that until I have a new set of SSI's on the floor and that will be a long time from now.

I pulled the stacks for cleaning so getting at the pump bolts is no problem, one nut is already off. as in M.I.A.

I think I will pull the pump for cleaning. I have a mess from a oil leak. As long as I am in there.....Replacing the typical breather gasket, thermostat O ring and the sending unit washers.

When I pulled the sending unit for room to pull the thermostat I found both washers for the pump's oil pressure line on the bottom of the line? It should be one on top and one on the bottom. I think I might have found my leak?

[Schocki]

Originally Posted by Jeff Higgins

Start by making sure the "FE" mark on the crank pulley is lined up with the timing mark on the fan shroud. Make sure it is lined up after cylinder #4 has reached TDC.

Jack the back of the car up and remove the left rear wheel. Take the hose for the warm up solenoid off of the heat exchanger and tin so it is out of the way. Disconnect the throttle rod from the bellcrank on the stack and the bellcrank on the transmission and get it out of the way. It goes through the belt, so it has to come off. Now unbolt the piece of cover tin that goes over the belt.

You should now be able to see the belt. You have two options from here. Either loosen the pump base nuts and slide it as far left as possible, slackening the belt so you can remove it, or just remove the cam pulley. I prefer the latter, for a number of reasons.

First, the left rear base nut on the pump is a real bear to access. You will need a swivel foot socket, and will probably need to remove at least the barometric cell, if not the #1 and #2 injector lines to get to that nut. No fun. Second, even with the pump as far left as its base slots allow, the new belt may not go over the pulleys. It's pretty darn tight.

I find it far easier to simply remove the camshaft pulley. There are only two bolts holding it on. Granted, if the new belt winds up too lose, you are going to have to loosen those base nuts to move the pump right to tighten it. Merely loosening that left rear base nut is, however, much easier than removing it and then reinstalling it.

Make sure you have not rotated the pump pulley by putting the new belt on it. Once it is back on, just put its cover, then the throttle rod, then the hose, then the wheel back on and you're done.

Very old post but the above instructions worked like a charm for me yesterday. Took me 1.5 hours to complete the job (car was already on jackstands). The belt was still in ok shape after 20 years but this is preventive maintenance.
BTW has anybody an idea what the service interval supposed to be on the MFI belt?