How the heck do you "snap back in" the new shift rod bushing???
 

I removed the whole shifter, rod etc....but how do I remove the old bushing on the L shaped bracket? It is stiff plastic in a fixed size hole....Do I need to replace the whole bracket????

Any help would be appreciated

Merci!

Gear head in training

Getting it out is easy....

If you're really lucky, you'll be able to get it back in with only a few broken bones and the whole neighborhood complaining about the foul language.

I cut it out using an exacto, the used vice grips and swore the whole way ;)

Happy new year....

I cut my old one out with a pair of diagonal cutters. The new one was a bit more pliable and went in without too much drama.

To remove you can gently secure in a vice and use a screwdriver to ease it out (push in and then down)..... I have a series of pics that I should assemble into a tech article.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1136316268.jpg

Try and boil the new one in some water, should snap right in

To install the new one I gently pressed in the lightly greased bushing with the vice and then gently pulled the lip over the tangs with a flat blade screwdriver. There are a few ways to do this...this worked well for me.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1136316562.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1136316594.jpg

ouch. out is easy. multiply that by 1000, and that is how hard putting the new one in is.

Now you guys tell me. I thought I was just missing something and being dumb when I put mine in. That was a not a fun project.

2nd the hot water. Same thing on the rear bushing on a 914 (that's where I learned it.) BTW, if it is not secure, make it so with epoxy or something. Even polyurethane caulk, which would allow a little movement. Make sure, though, that it is in line with the shaft and not cocked to an angle. a lot of times the ring is worn bigger.

Yeah, boling water to makit softer.
Haven't done the shift rod, but I guess its simular to the ball type rear swaybar bushing.

The cup literally pops right off. I pressed the new one on with the palm of my hand.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1136320276.jpg

I just did mine and it was a *****. I had a huge hammer and beat it in, pushed with a vise and coaxed it with a flat tipped screw driver.
I was cussing alot.
The way that is listed above was along the lines of what I did.

I would say have patience....but with this I had none.

Just cut it longitudinally with a hack saw! The material you remove will reduce the effective diameter slightly and it will slide right in. Might sound crazy, but it makes no difference whatsoever as to the functionality of the bushing. This isn't an engine rod bearing afterall, it's just the shift rod moving slowly back and forth through there. The cut is in the same direction as the rod travel so there really isn't any problems.

damn! i am gonna redo mine. thanks cegerer.

I figured this out after nearly destroying the metal hanger and running out of expletives. I tried the boiling method and everything else ....... :rolleyes:

Good to see there are many ways to skin el gato. It took me minutes to remove and install each piece.

i was more stupid. i used hot water and my vise. pressed it back in, mostly, but it was mishaped. soooooo.....i find a socket that was the same diameter as the rod and pressed that thru to "round" the hole. i ended up stretching the hole more than it needed to be, now my shaft is too small..err hole, loose.
(nothing like admiting the shaft is too small, or the hole is too large)

"Good to see there are many ways to skin el gato"

I like to skin mine with a hack saw, as opposed to the boiling method. :D Just kidding ......

Actually it should skin more easily after boiling...lol.

GOT IT BACK ON thanks to you all.

Boiled it, used a vice and finally got it on.

I would NEVER have been able to do it without first losing my mind. Thanks for all you help.

A question to those that have done this. I have mine, but not in yet.
would my problem of shifting from 1st to 2nd be caused by this item. I have to pull hard to get into 2nd, it goes in, but feels like the last inch of travel is binding somewhere. All other shifts work fine, just 2nd. Any help, thanks again.

These should be called kidney bushings as you have to sqeeze the p*ss out them to get them in. But when you are done its just such a relief...

edit: suggest large supply of bandaids

Should the new bushing slide on to the shifter rod tightly? It seems very tight (maybe slightly warped from my pounding to get it on)....

No, it shouldn't be tight at all. It should slide easily, but should not have any play. That's why the other methods didn't work for me. Boiling it and pressing it in distorted the bushing for me. Obviously, it worked for Rick and others.

Make sure you grease the shaft. Mine was very sloppy before and the new one stays put no matter where I put it. I was concerned it was too tight also. But when you get it all back togeather and it is all lined up you don't notice it and man what a difference it all makes.....

Ummm...that would be the infamous 2nd gear synchro. Nothing new...just count '1,001 1,002' then it should slide in gear. Always a little easier when warmed up.

I used an electric heat gun and gently heated it until soft being careful not to burn it. I then used a gloved hand to press it in.

Thanks Nickatnyt, but it doesn't grind into second, it just tugs really hard. I thought if it were the syncho's it would grind. I guess I should get used to it, and the old 1001-1002.

After beating my bushing into submission, it now fits very tight.

Question: Anyone know if I can use bearing grease on the shifter shaft, if not what else do I use?

Thanks

you could

or use silicone grease if worried about what a petrol. grease may eventually do to the plastic bushing. It may not last ong enough from the friction for the grease to harm it in any event.

Actually it appears to be Nylon. I used a very small amount of standard bearing grease.

Nylon = plastic

Just being more specific. I wasn't aware that a petroleum based grease would harm Nylon. Perhaps rubber..but Nylon?

I think most are using standard bearing grease. I used a high temp lithium "white grease" so it would stay put. Works good so far will see how it holds up over time.

I decided to play it safe and went out and got some "white grease".

As a side note, I also had to re-shape my bushing after it was warped during the process of getting it in to the darn L braket. Used a cone shaped pipe and a little heat and muscle. Fits like a glove now. Unfortunatly I have to wait until summer to pull it out of my garage....I hate Canadian winters and so does my baby 911 :) The waiting kills me...

Cheers ! and thanks again.

Rick - I don't know re nylon being harmed by a petrol. grease. You are right to be more specific as nylon is apretty inert plastic.

Like many things this probably depends on whether one's level of paranoia or "anality" outweighs one's laziness and distance to a place with silicone grease.

BTW, any chem. stores place at a university (or high school) will have a silicone grease - stopcock grease that is just fine for such uses.

A funny little tidbit.....My wife asked why I don't just use the outdated personal lubricant in the drawer....Outch....I think she is jeolous of my dedication to the well being of my mistress in the garage