First time Valve Adjustment
 

Hi , just wondering i have a 1980 SC and am going to be doing a valve adjustment on it myself from watching that DVD tuneup.I had the engine rebuilt 9 years ago just drove it Sundays and i had the cams reground i think thats what they called it for better perforamce or is there such a thing. Is it going to be a problem using the factory spec. feeler gage to adjust? or valve adjustments on these types of year cars are the same even if modified. Iam pretty green to doing this type job all help would be great thxs.

You'll be fine - same valve clearance setting for any cam profile...

Well I just did my first (and second) valve adjustment. I have always heard first timers adjust valves too loose, and even though I was thinking about it and reassuring myself that my valves will not be too loose, sure enough they were. Finished my first adjustment, started the motor and heard the clicking, sighed, waited 4 hrs cool down did the left side (1,2,3) still clicking, after 4 hr cool down did right side and now my engine has never run better. Good luck

anyone know how much the shop charge for this job?
Thanks.

I did mine on my 80 930 ,kicked my a__!!!!!!!But it was worth it. Just do it! That was one of the rules when i bought the car ,im not gonna pay some1.

hi ,thxs for info. So when i do the job and start it up, i am listening for loud tapping noise if not done right on the valves? Is it very noticeable sound if not done right.I have prettty good ears of what it should sound like i think . There shouldn't be any tapping noise at all? Oh and how tight do u tighten those bolts/screws on the lifter adjustment? seems if u don't tighing it enough could come lose after driving around couple months? thx

I was told by a porsche mechanic to do them pretty tight (valve adjustment)but not to tight that you cant get your feeler guage out.when he was showing me he used a pair of vise grips and the feeler guages as a visual , if you want to get used to it b4 you do it. try to get them right the 1st time so you dont have to tear it apart again. tighten the 13mm pretty snug ,if possible i would use a 6 point offset wrench because the nuts are shallow and want to strip with a 12 point. start on #1 cyl and follow the firing order . the crank pulley is broken up into 1/3s so after your done with 1 turn it to to the next mark and adjust the next on in the order and so on until they are all done. just take your time and you will get it . the next time you do it you will probably cut your time in half.
Pete

If you use Racer2.7's "backside" method, it will take all of the guesswork out - you'll nail it...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=278725&highlight=valve+ adjust

After doing my valve job i'am still not sure if did them right. I did the back side method and checked with normal feeler gauge.Just not sure if it sounds the same as before. When listening to it, it sounds like a large sewing machine like a VW beeltle (of course) .when it warms up. I think it seems louder then before the valves but they sound equally timed together both sides but louder i think. Could i have adjusted them too lose all of them? I didn't turn the screw that much to left and right to adjust them using back side method and 2 of them didn't need it with the go-no gauge.Can someone tell me what a really bad valve job adjustment would sound like? thx.

The sewing maching analogy is what I was always told to listen for. That means your work is not done!! When I did mine, it took me 2 1/2 times to get it right (2 full adjustments, then redid the left side as it was still ticking like the proverbial sewing machine).

My problem was second guessing myself - too loose? too tight? In the end, I was too loose.

I tried the backside method, but found I couldn't get the two methods to agree - the backside would be way too loose when the front felt right or vice versa, so I stuck with the traditional method. In the end I nailed it, it's quiet and I can feel the difference in driving.

I did my first last summer and used the 2.7 method. But I did have the feeler gauge in there to get a feel for what it should "feel" like when correct. The key is, it should feel like there is a slight magnetic drag (saw that on a 80's video tape - good tape). Anyway, for perfection, use the backside method.

Anyone have a sound clip of a well adjusted valve job with engine idling?

what and where did you get the video? I will need to do my first valve job soon.
thanks.
Peter

I did mine for the first time the regular method. I didn't notice much noise but when I went to a porsche mechanic, he told me I needed a valve adjust... so I went back and did it the second time the "backside" method.

I went to the same mechanic again and this time he heard no problems! It does take time but is quite fulfilling when done!

I converted the vhs to dvd but I got both of these through performance I'm sure pelican can hook you up if you shoot them an email.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1175090209.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1175090281.jpg

I was really terrified so I read every post, tech article, waynes book, and watched these two vids. About that time the backside method was being posted. The videos and reading help with removing parts and stuff so they are helpfull. I would say the vhs is better than the dvd if I had to rank them. But each has a couple points the other doesn't.

So for the backside method just leave the .0025 gauge in-between the rocker and cam tell u tighten and feel a strong drag magnetic feel back and both side to side with gauge, but when u pull it out u won't be able to slide the .0025 back in which is what iam looking for a right-on adjustment.? The way i did it was the .0025 gauge just barely fit putting the guage in in-between and was a slight drag when moving it but not a harsh magnetic fell cause then i couldn't put it back in once i pulled it out. But the .003 gauge didn't slide in so i assumed it is correct. thx.

re: "terrified"

- Do this: get the valves done right by a good shop in your area. Maybe they will let you do some under their supervision.

Then go back and "do" the adjustment on the easiest ones to get to - it won't be cyl #1, so just skip that one. You will be able to feel how the gage is supposed to feel -- i.e. the drag on the gage blade when in between the rocker & foot.

Now, you can do it for real the next time.

I've never used the gage under the cam lobe method (aka "backside") - It seems to work for folks but it worries me b/c of the broad surface with a limited curvature -- seems like a way to introduce errors.