Buying a stored used engine
 

I have found an engine, without FI, that has been stored for 12 years. A 3.2 with only 18k miles. The entire crankcase has been filled up with oil and stored that way.

I'm thinking about buying it...
What can go wrong with a stored engine?

Well, for one thing how do you know it really only has 18K miles, after that anything can go wrong. I'd say it's a crap shoot unless you really trust whoever is selling it. Good luck!

Agree with Widgeon.

Unless you know and trust the seller to be accurate in the description, an engine you can't hear run, can't run a compression test on, etc. is always a gamble.

Turning it over by hand tells you almost nothing, other than the rings are not rusted to the cylinders!

I would be very cautious unless you trust the seller, or the price is SO LOW it's irresistible.

not much can go wrong if stored properly but the rings can leave grooves in the cylinders from just sitting.. but not usual if oiled and turned over from time to time. if the price is right then not much of a gamble. in fact for me I would rather have this setup a little cheaper then a running one in a car.. my only concern would be the possible corrosion of head studs and or breaking.. do to little rust pockets.. this happened to my engine when I bought it with 45k and had been stored for about years

Yes, I only has the sellers word on it and I don't know him.
But it the 18k is true its real cheap.
If it was running before put to storage and then filled up with oil it should be preserved, right?

Edit: I don't think it has been turned regularly.

STORED ENGINE...
 

You could have the cylinders boroscope... Most aircraft repair shops will have a boroscope. I doubt a good guy would charge ya $20.00 for a looksey into the cylinders.

If it was filled with oil and was actually a low miles engine then the odds are in your favor. The 3.2 is also the toughest engine ever so that doesn't hurt either.

If the price was right I'd be tempted to buy it. The only real weakness on the 3.2 is the valve guides. They wear out, which leads to blue smoke out the tailpipe from the oil leaks. Does anyone on this forum know if valve guide wear can be seen by taking off the valve covers?

Value it as a core motor needing a rebuild.

If you later determine it is a low mile motor then just replace a few seals and gaskets and enjoy a good deal.

Magnus:
If it wasn't turned over regularly, the rings aren't the only items rusting up; not good.
A look inside with a scope is essential.
Filling it up with oil? As a dry-sump engine, it'll only hold a few liters.
Then there is the issue of what type P/C's, Nikasil or Alusil?
Also, without the FI, what are you putting on top to make it run?

"Filled up with oil" does NOT mean the cylinders were full of oil. There could easily be rust in the cylinder bores. If it had been "stored" for 12 years? C'mon, you think the guy REALLY went and physically turned the engine over with a wrench.

For the life of me I can't understand why someone would say they would PREFER this engine to one you could hear running in a car or one you could do a compression test/cylinder leakage test on? If you don't know the owner, get the boroscope look see, or pass.

OK, what more than the rings could rust?
The crank and con rods should be fine, what about the cam?

I'll have to talk to the owner about the procedure he used when storing it. I just talked to him briefly and he said the crankcase was filled up with oil.

I don't have a FI planed. I don't need a new engine right now, but my 2.7 might need at least a top end soon. My plan was to get a 3 liter or better and prepare it while my engine is still running, instead of rebuilding my 2.7 when that time comes.

it sounds like a potential pig in a poke. either get a really good deal, or let it go.
would you be willing to say how much he is asking?

Here's a 964 30K mile engine my friend just picked up for a conversion. #3 intake valve is full of corrosion. Looks like engine was sitting for some time with intake valve open to the elements... Might have to do a top end or worse. A real bummer! Lou

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184894741.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1184894803.jpg

I bought a rebuilt engine that once running needing 100% rebuilding again. It cost me (not the seller) about double the price of the engine.

I will never buy a non-running engine again, unless it comes from the factory.

Doug

With aircraft engines (Lycoming & Continental) the cam lobes tend to rust and pit. The pitting causes the cam to wear out quickly. Of course with our O. H. cam engines the cams can be quickly changed. Still I would determine if the storage enviornment could cause the engine to accumulate moisture -> rust.
Good luck
Carl

If it's cheap enough, as you say, you could part it out & maybe make some money off of it if there is a real problem.

I might have to think about this...
I'll see if I can get the seller to send me some pictures with the valvecovers removed, that could tell something of the overall picture.

This needs an update.
I didn't buy the engine at the time, but it didnt sell and went out on a new ad a few weeks ago.

I ignored all good advice here and bought it :)
I have no proof that it has only 20k miles on it as the seller said, but everything I have seen so far indicates that its true.
*Valve train under the valve covers looks as good as new.
*Cam chains also fine no stretch or corrosion.
*Removed heat exchangers, with no effort at all.
*Exhaust valves and ports has very little deposits.

The engine did however look like crap, very dirty and with "random" spray paint on the tinware.
No big deals, a good cleaning and some new paint and it will look like new.

The sellers definition of a "complete engine without FI" differed a bit from mine:
*It laked all other exhaust components other than the HE. No big deal, wasn't gonna use it any way (SSI).
*The fan assembly and generator was missing.
It was basically a long block, the seller went down in price when I pointed that out.

Now I have bought some Suzuki throttle bodies and is shopping for an EFI, undecided about what system to use. I have ruled out Megasquirt and VEMS and also some of the big budget systems. Hot candidates are Emerald and a Swedish system called NIRA.
I can get the Emerald system complete, installed and tuned (8 hours on a dyno) for under the equivalent of $3000.