I typically go on the Proformance Racing School days. http://www.proformanceracingschool.com/. Don Kitch is runs the school and is a great guy, and his instructors are great to learn from too.

I have to admit that I'm not a PCA member. :eek: Though I've toyed with joining for a while now...

At the risk of stealing my own thunder (yes, it runs! clips posted tomorrow :D) one thing I completely forgot to add was that, unequovically, you can save yourself at least $50 per sensor if you use the Bosch/BMW speed or position sensor part if you have a Motronic Carrera.

I read extensively on whether there was a cheaper replacement part for this sensor... and in fact there is though the threads on the topic are, er..., less than definitiive. Once again, I rolled the dice so you don't have to. ;)

Search Pelican for this part number - it's the one you want:

12-14-1-708-618-M14

P.S. I used two of the above in my build... here's a pic:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1199504925.jpg

They work like a champ!

Part VIII - The Multimedia Extravaganza
 

Some gratuitous exterior and interior shots. The keen observer will note that those wheels are my new Rota Foxes, shod in 225/45/17 and 255/40/17 Falken Azenzis RT-615s. No rubbing so far, and as you can see, my car is below euro height.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1199575359.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1199575385.jpg

The Recaro SRDs totally rock:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1199575407.jpg

I don't know why I don't pull out the rear seats, but I never seem to be able to get myself to do it. And if you're curious, that's a Speedware harness bar. I use 6 point restraints at the track, mostly because stock belts make me nervous at 125 MPH, and that's not the time to be distracted:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1199575425.jpg


And, at last, here is a clip of the motor. The sound in this clip is not so hot, but so far the motor's absolutely scorchin'.

The cams give the idle a bit of a lump, and it's definitely crisper, deeper and louder than it was before. Exhaust is stock Carrera HEs, a Dansk premuffler and a M & K 1-1.

I'll try to post a better sound clip later - one that really does it justice. Enjoy:


I'll post some driving impressions next time. And so far, no oil leaks at all!

OK, gotta go rack up some miles...

You have stock carrera exhaust on a 3.4?

For the moment I'm keepting the stock exhaust. Not only do I need heat, but I have to pass emissions for a few years still and I have a test coming up in a couple of months and so the cat will have to go back on for a bit. This motor passed without the cat a couple times before the rebuild, but I seriously doubt it will now.

Anyway, once I get past emissions I'll be looking into better exhaust. And since I need to keep my heat, there are only a few choices. Probably 993 HEs or B & Bs - both of which have drawbacks. I know there are Steve W's special GHLs too, and I am sure I'll look at those, but as I understand it those are mega bucks.

SSIs are out as they have primaries that are too small for this motor - 1/8" less than my current HEs.

Anyone have any other suggestions?

Nectar!!!!!

Great work ! this is truly a thread of the highest quality. Very enjoyable to read. Thanks

That sounds super badass, almost like it is growling for some ferrari meat to chow down on! I think the M&K sound is my favorite of all the ones I have heard so far. I dont live in a residential neighborhood so I think I will hunt down a used one to put on my 'humble' 82.

Can you give us a run down of the cost of this project?

Troy,
Excellent thread! Thank you for posting it and writing everything up. It's threads like this that keep me here after almost 6 years and I learn something each time I visit!!

Quick update: there is now 156 miles on the motor and it's getting smoother and stronger all the time. :D

Squelch - as far as $ is concerned, I think the thread title says it all. :eek:

Here is a rough breakdown of the suspension only:

Parts
Shocks: $400
F/R Monoballs & Lo Friction Arm Mounts: $1250
F/R Torsion Bars (21/28): $700
Triangulated Strut Brace: $250
Updated Rear Sway Bar Mounts: $150

Labor Items
Alignment: $250
Welding of SB Mounts: $150


Approximate total: $3150


Here is a rough breakdown of the major items for the motor only:

Labor Items
Machine Shop (case, crank, rods): $350
Heads & Valve Covers (valve grind & twin plug mods) - $1000

Parts
New Bearings/Seals/Gaskets/Fasteners: $2000
Twin Plug Parts (dizzy, wires, plugs, coil, Andial splitter) $2000
Pistons & Cylinders: $2500
Cams/Valve Springs/Refurb Rockers: $850
Custom Steve Wong Chip: $550
CHT/Speed/Position Sensors: $300
Tools (engine stand, special mount, cam bar, etc): $400
Random "while you're in there" Stuff: $200

Approximate total: $10350

Ultimately, I know the real total is more than this (but it's not too far off). There are a bunch of upgrades I already had - such as a new clutch, carrera tensioners (SCs and earlier), turbo valve covers, turbo tie rods, premuffler, M & K muffler, etc. - so if you don't already have those things too, well, you'll need to open the wallet even wider.

Had I paid a local shop to do this same work, assuming the same cost for parts, it would have doubled the totals (and then some).

The dyno sheet will ultimately tell the tale, but this is less than I would have paid for a "good" 10-12 year-old varioram 3.6 + conversion kit. I probably won't be too much below that in terms of power. Plus, I have a new motor. Sure, I could have probably sold my 3.2 to defray some cost of a conversion, but as I think I said earlier all the 3.6s are between 10-15 years old at this point and each year that goes by brings those closer to needing a rebuild as well. Yet prices have remained the same or even crept up a bit as the demand for 3.6 conversions increases. Moreover, a 3.6 those would cost at least as much as above, and probably more, to rebuild.

And because I was the kind of kid who used to take apart all the stereos and appliances in the house just to try to see how they worked, this was a really fun project overall. I'll admit it's not for everyone. I distinctly remember one moment during the teardown when I was removing the cam cases - hitting them with a rubber mallet pretty hard, mind you - when I found myself suddenly paralyzed by the grip of existential doubt. I stood and stared at the motor for probably 15 minutes and thought "what the hell have you gotten yourself into?"

But then, seriously, I realized that if I got myself into trouble I had the Books of Wayne & Bruce to guide me, plus I knew all of you guys were only a few clicks away. But, basically, at that point I was committed so I just nutted up and got on with it.

And, frankly, if I had taken this project to a shop I would not have ended up with the same result. I never would have paid a tech $100 per hour to stand in front of the parts cleaner and to scrub out the crevices with a q-tip. And there was a lot of that. I mean there were dozens of hours of drudgery spent cleaning, cleaning and more cleaning of filthy parts.

But there is a ton of satisfaction for me here. This may be the most satisfying project I've ever done.

Plus, I can tell you that once you've built a motor like this, building something like an American V8 is laughably simple (the motor design/configuration is really the hard part - I mean the actual build). I guess what I am saying is that once you've done something like this, you'll have the confidence to do damn near anything automotive on damn near any automobile.

I wish I had the mechanical ability to do what you did. I was in Seattle about 2 months ago. It would have been well worth taking a look at your car; better than visiting an art museum. Oh well, maybe next time.

Congrats on a job well done! :eek:

Thanks for posting the pics and the video clip. Your engine sounds healthy and strong.

Thanks for sharing it has been a pleasure to view your progress. I wish you were my neighbor. I am sure you have motivated quite a few pelicans to take the plunge

So Troy, how's that new motor treatin' ya?

250 miles, 3 oil changes - so far so good. Less metal coming out each time in the oil and on the magnetic plugs. I saved my first two filters, though I have not cut them open yet.

At this point, no smoke on startup at all. Great power. Much, much better throttle response. Much more torque. Like most Carreras, it used to be pretty tame until 4K and then "turn on" but now it pretty much pulls hard from above 2500. I've only taken it to 5K so far, so I have another 1500 RPM before it runs out of snot.

The thing that is blowing my mind is the total lack of oil leaks! I think that this topic has been covered ad nauseum in other posts, but here's what I used:

Threebond 1104 on the case perimiter, Locktite 574 on the case webs
Curil T on the pulley seal (just a bit).
Curil T on both sides of the cylinder base gaskets
Locktite 574 on the chain housing gaskets (after meticulous cleaning)
Locktite 574 on the cam case/cylinder head
Rocker shafts torqued to 20ft/lbs.

I need to adjust the valves again this weekend - a couple of them are getting loud - and retorque the head nuts.

Next stop, the dynojet for a few pulls. :D

Well nice work.

I don't have your patients or talent, but I do have the matching tool box.

Well done again LM

Troy,
It is a nice read. You make it seem so easy.

Who needs car magazines any more with guys like you on Pelican?
Thanks!

Update: 1500 miles and Counting
 

Just a quick update for you guys...

I just crossed the 1500 mile mark and changed the oil for the 4th time yesterday, and everything looks great. Each change produced less fuzz and finings on the magnetic drain plugs... this time there was practically nothing.

I have saved all my oil filters so far, but I have yet to cut them open. Not sure I'll need to. :) Speaking of oil... there is just the smallest weep coming from the oil crossover line. Almost unbelieveably, the case is completely dry. I still can't believe I pulled that one off. Props to Wayne, his book and Henry Schmidt's advice.

At 1000 miles I adjusted the valves, and now 500 miles later they are still nice and quiet. I also retorqued the head studs... 4 or 5 were a bit loose. That I'll have to keep an eye on.

At the same time I pulled all 12 plugs just to have a peek.. they looked perfect-o, even though I suspect it's running a bit rich at 3/4 and full throttle. Now that it's broken in for real, next stop is at the local Dynojet for a few pulls, an objective look at the TQ/HP numbers and an AFR plot for Mr. Wong so he can tease the last few ponies from it.

While one set of plugs were still out I did a compression test, and here's where we landed:

1) 195
2) 192
3) 190
4) 194
5) 191
6) 195

This is right at what I'd expect for ~10:1 compression and a minimal-overlap cam, and is probably at the safe limit for pump gas (WA = 92 RON/MON). No way I'd want these cylinder pressures on pump gas without twin plugs.

At this point, I am certainly happy with the JE piston/QSC cylinder combo. I think it was a great value compared to the alternatives.

My only gripe is that about half the time I get some oil smoke on startup, particularly if it's sat around for a few days. The volume of smoke seems related to temperature... that is the colder it is the more smoke I get. Couple times I started the car when it was in the upper 20s and that was when I'd get the most. Now that it's in the 50s here most of the time, it's smoking a lot less when it smokes at all. Either way, it lasts just a few seconds, so I'm not really worried. It's the nature of these beasts.

Though part of me can't help wondering if the smoke has anything to do with the JE/QSC combo letting oil past the rings (from the back side) while sitting when it's really cold. Not sure how much I like that theory, though.

But man, let me tell you, this motor has some snot. Throttle response is about twice what it was stock. It's still a bit lazy... but that's a product of the barn door AFM, narrowband O2 sensor and the low compute speed of the Motronic DME, I think. It just can't react as quickly as a hotwire system with a fast wideband 02 system and a modern processor.

Anyway, at idle, you can distinctly hear the crisp pops characteristic of a motor with high compression and a cam. I call it the rumble of love. :) Before the build, like all the Carreras, the motor was just OK until 4000 RPM when it really (finally?) turned on. Now, anywhere above about 2500 it just plain pulls hard all the way into the red part of the tach.

Dropping the extra $ to get everything finely balanced also really shows here... it's unbelieveably smooth even at 6000 RPM. Less motor vibration means that from inside, above 4000, you can clearly hear the intake rush and the whirr of the fan on top of that mean, intoxicating roar.

It's an 8-part mechanical concerto in the key of B... that's B for "bad 'effin ass."

Hey Troy, Cool thread. It's always interesting to see what really happens, and I for one, appreciate your following through with all the data. Hope it continues to run well.