Checking WOT switch
 

Ive searched and cant find what I need to check the WOT on my 3.2. I know I check for continuity. But I'm not sure where. I'm assuming that my WOT switch is the black thing that I'm pointing my finger at.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1232478922.jpg

There are three prongs that I can see from the switch. Do I just hold my probes on two of the prongs and open up the throttle on the other side? Which prongs do I check?

The motronic system is all new to me, so I hope you bear with me on some of these questions.

You should get continuity at 3/4 open throttle. The top two contacts I believe. A worthwhile check. Mine had a bad solder joint inside. Ken

Ive checked the top two, bottom two, and outside two. No continuity. I guess I'll pull it off and take a look at it. I see replacements here are not too bad, under $100.

I'm trying to sort out my 3.2 swap, how does this affect performance?

You need to see continuity on the upper two pins after 3/4 of full throttle. Without it functioning, you will stay in part throttle mode, and never go to full throttle mapping. The difference is 20 hp or more. Some guys have been able to take the switch apart and fix the problem. But before that, try rotating the switch on the throttle body to see if you can get it into activation range. A hammer and blunt screwdriver hitting the mounting tab works great.

WOW!
I Just got around to checking the WOT switch after 5+ years of ownership.
My findings were the switch was set full counterclockwise with some yellow lock tight. Checking with a multimeter, I had no continuity; I loosened the top screw with a small 4"pair of vise grips (couldn't get my stubby driver on the screw) used Steve's method and pushed the sensor forward.. I had to go full clockwise to get a signal @ about 80% full throttle. Tightened the screw and went for a ride. WOW again; what a burst of power I have in 1st and 2nd gear now... I'm sure I'll have the power in the other gears I just wanted to play in first and second for the spin I just took.
All the best,

Steve, you might know the answer: the car was a Calf. car is that why the WOT switch was set NOT to go to full throttle maps? I still have the brown wire connected under the drivers seat that retards the timing, now with the extra fuel @ WOT should this be disconected now?
TIA

The WOT switch is supposed to operate, irrespective of what state or country it goes to. The metal contacts inside yours probably changed the activation point after years of wear.

You should disconnect the brown wires anyways. It's only connected on California and Japan cars to reduce emissions by eliminating any fuel enrichment on throttle transients, and reducing ignition timing to prevent pinging from such and to further reduce NOx. Net result is further deadening of throttle response, and 7 hp less than a 49 state car.

Thanks, I'll do that next.. Steve, would I have to reset my CO base idle after disconecting the brown jumper wire?

Steve, would I have to reset my CO base idle after disconecting the brown jumper wire?
I'm pretty solid at 850/900 looking at the tach..with car fully warmed up.

The brown wires have no effect on the idle mixture. Whatever it was before will be the same after. But if you want to check and adjust if necessary, you can do it by reading the O2 sensor. See here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=104495

All

Sorry to continue the WOT thread. I just checked mine, and have two questions.

1. The Bentley manual says continuity at full throttle and no continuity in all other positions. Steve - I assume "real world" experience says to keep it at 75-80% range? I have continuity that kicks in at full throttle (literally mashed to the floor).

2. How the heck do you get at the bottom screw? I got at the top one just fine with a 1/4 drive and a screw driver attachment, but the bottom seemed pretty hard to get. Do I need to take the VAF/Aircleaner off?

Thanks in advance

Jack

That's continuity at 3/4 THROTTLE opening, not accelerator travel. Check at the throttle. If it's going at 3/4 throttle opening, but you require a full pedal depress to get it, then you likely need to adjust your accelerator linkage.

Don't worry about the screws, usually you can just take a hammer and long blunt screwdriver and tap on one side or the other of the metal tabs to rotate the switch into position.

sygyzy....now that does make sense. Great point. Looks like I have a couple projects to do this weekend if I don't get out fishing.

Steve W.....Thanks, I will loosen the top and see if I can love tap it a bit. BTW - you will see a order from me pre-xmas. Supporting folks who help the community is essential.

-Jack

I have this problem too. WOT only activates at 98% of throttle opening. Have to crush the accelerator pedal to get the switch to activate. When pushing the throttle mechanism by hand at the throttle body the result is the same so pedal travel does not need adjustment.

Please exuse my ignorance but in respect to the metal tabs Steve W referrs to are they the same ones that you measure continunity on ?? The ones the original poster points to in the first post ?

I have a question. Isn't prevent pinging a good feature? So if it's diconnected, my engine might be pinging for some reasons and it is not prevented?