yes! Forward but diferent!

[AlexJ]

It is sort of a rust converter that in contact with rust pruduces a protective layer over the affected area, right?

[attamz]

Thats exactly what it is. It bites in and forms a almost blackish coating over the rust.

[AlexJ]

Yes, that's it...
By the way, I have been asking this on a different thread but no one gave me an answer: Do you know if it is ok to apply POR15 over it?

[attamz]

I have never used por15, but it seems like it is a very similar product to rust seal. If you are using por15 I wouldn't think there would be a need to even use rustseal

[Flieger]

I always heard that the "por" in "por15" stood for "paints over rust". Just make sure the panel is non-structural and still solid, as the proper repair to restore panel strength is new metal; then paint with por15. It is only for light surface rust.

[AlexJ]

Originally Posted by Flieger

I always heard that the "por" in "por15" stood for "paints over rust". Just make sure the panel is non-structural and still solid, as the proper repair is new metal, then por15. It is only for light surface rust.

Ok, that is what I was planning to do. All the new panels are on their way.

[AlexJ]

Today's developments:

Finish cleaning some more rust spots, removed the rear screen and... ready to leave.

Next destination: body shop

[AlexJ]

I am not quite happy with this stage.
I should have prepared it better but most of the things I didn't do now, can be done latter.

Soon I will post more developments at the body shop.

[AlexJ]

Well... As I expected developments at the body-shop have been very slow...

The only area which has been finished is the door post (rear):




As been advised by other members, I didn't change the hole panel. Only the damaged area.

One of the windshield corners is also started... very slowly...






Another area already started is the front inner arch.
I really don't agree that is area is repaired two stages... I would produce a single piece and then weld it on place... but I am not the technician...

[AlexJ]

... meanwhile, I manage to get my interior rebuild!
I went to pick the seats yesterday and I was very pleased with the result.

I have been looking for original dark blue vinyl all over the world ), being announced as "original brand supplier of Porsche and Mercedes... plain and perforated. Enough vinyl for font and rear seats cost me 40 euros...

The final result is not perfect but in my opinion a very good quality was achieved.




Considering that it cost me 300 euros to the hole rebuild plus 40 euros from vinyl, I cannot complain that much...

[chris 964]

Originally Posted by jimrs2000

Sorry my confusion, I get very excited when I see someone potentially building a rally car!!!

I know Richard who runs Prepfab very well so feel free to mention my name if you ever contact him, I will be back in the UK for the Roger Albert Clark Rally in November and will be seeing him then.

Did you know they have just opened a place in france? A little closer to you.

I am thinking of building an SC rally car myself.......we shall see!

Hi Jim, cool your coming over to the Classic Rally all the way from Dallas! and your RS, its on English plates?
I used to have a Mexico and RS2000 mkII back in the early 80's, bonkers money nowadays. Anyway, when you over maybe we should hook up?

Chris

[AlexJ]

Some more developments at the SLOW bodyshop...

Some sealed areas with POR15 and front panels being adjusted for final welding.

[AlexJ]

Today I have been taking out the engine with the help of some friends...
Here it is at my garage.




It will need a very deep and hard clean...

As you can see there are a lot of a white powder over the bare metal, like cases, valve covers, chain covers etc.

Black parts are easy to solve because I will dismantle everything, recover the old rusty bits and paint it.

The problem is the other parts...
Does anyone can davise any product to help removing this white powder permanently and refresh the bare metal parts? Specially products I can purchase in Europe - there are some products from US that are very expensive to import...

[AlexJ]

I have been searching some information about the works previously done on the engine and found out that head studs have already been changed by reinforced ones. Some maintenance has been done during last years.

My plans for now:

Change all rusty bolts and nut
Search for oil leaks and change all hoses
Change oil tubes under engine
Install hydraulic tensioners
Clean injectors
Change filters, plugs, gaskets, etc.
New exhaust rear muffler and gaskets
Rebuild alternator and starter
Don't really know what to do to rebuild injection.. .suggestions?

Considering my lack of experience on these engines, I will thank any more suggestions from other experienced Pelicans.

This car has been parked outside for almost 2 years....

[AlexJ]

Ha! I ill also do a valve check and adjustment

[Ionizer]

For removing oxide on aluminium I would use acid.

Autosmart has a product called treble X and Lahega has a similair called syrax. Both of them wery efficient oxide removers.

That will leave a clean but rough surface ready for filler and paint.

Sandblasting and anodizing will also give a nice durable surface. Perhaps looking more like original.

[AlexJ]

Thanks for your suggestions!

[AlexJ]

A few more developments on paint shop:

[AlexJ]

While the loooong stay at the body shop keeps on, a few more developments on the engine...

[giovanni86]

great project!

what will be the colour?