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Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Lakewood Colorado
Posts: 1,346
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Help with Petronix
Hi there folks!
I am having some issues with getting my car to run after installing a Petronix Ignitor (#2862) for my distributor which is a Bosch 231 159 007 on my 69 911T. I know it is strange to have an S distributor of a T!! Basically, turning the key produces no spark at all. I have read all the threads I can find about Petronix but none answered my questions. First, what resistance should I have through the coil. I currently have a blue coil which is running 4 ohms of resistance. Second, with the key turned over I only get 9 volts across the coil. With points installed my engine was running fine and am wondering if the coil could be the culprit. Third, I was wondering if I have the gap on the Petronix set correctly. It appears that the plate from the Pertronix only fits one way and am not sure how to adjust the unit to get the recommended 0.03 inch gap. How exactly do you adjust the gap on the Petronix? Any advice would be greatly appreciated Thanks
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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JW Apostate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 14,164
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I have run with the Blue coil. No problem there.
The air gap tool needs to fit between the module and the magnetic sleeve on the dist shaft. Loosen the adjuster screw on the dist base as if you were adjusting the points. With the white dot facing the module the air gap tool should slide through with a small amount of drag. If that didn't work, you may have the wires backwards. ( which is bad ). KT
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'74 914-6 2.6 SS #746 '01 Boxster |
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Band.
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Does a '69 have a CDI box?
If so, make sure you DO NOT hook up the Pertronix like the instructions that come in the box. Do it like this: ![]() Basically: BLACK to the same points-grounding wire as the points went to, and RED to a switched 12V source. About the gap, the pertronix comes in two pieces, the plate that fits in the distributor with the detent to fit where the points detent used to fit, and the actual unit. Put the bottom piece in the distributor and screw down the phillips screw so it is tight in the distributor. Then, install the actual pertronix on top, keep the nut(s) loose. Adjust the gap with the plastic gapping tool and tighten down the nut. ![]()
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1983 SC Coupe 1963 BMW R60/2 1972 Triumph Tiger 1995 Triumph Daytona SuperIII |
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Location: Lakewood Colorado
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Quote:
First, my package did not include an air gap tool. I might need to contact pertronix for this. Can I use a normal blade adjuster with a 0.03 inch gap for this? What do you mean by the white dot? I am pretty sure I got the wiring right. I connected red to positive switched 12 volts (+ side of coil) and black to the negative side of the coil where the points connected previously.
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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Registered
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Lakewood Colorado
Posts: 1,346
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Quote:
Basically: BLACK to the same points-grounding wire as the points went to, and RED to a switched 12V source. About the gap, the pertronix comes in two pieces, the plate that fits in the distributor with the detent to fit where the points detent used to fit, and the actual unit. Put the bottom piece in the distributor and screw down the phillips screw so it is tight in the distributor. Then, install the actual pertronix on top, keep the nut(s) loose. Adjust the gap with the plastic gapping tool and tighten down the nut. ![]() Thanks, My 69 does not have a CDI ignition so the hook up was pretty simple. I have it exactly as suggested with black connected to the coil where the points were previously connected and red to switched power.
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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JW Apostate
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Napa, Ca
Posts: 14,164
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There's a white dot on the magnetic sleeve that goes over the dist shaft below the rotor.
That should be facing the module when you gap it as a visual reference. KT
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'74 914-6 2.6 SS #746 '01 Boxster |
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Wilmington, NC USA
Posts: 635
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On my 69 the pertronix once installed was at the proper distance. I didn't need any "adjustment". Also 69's had a CDI ignition originally. Someone converted to a regular set up when they didn't want to spend money on a new CDI unit. They may have put in a ballast resistor that lowers the voltage to the points. In a conventional set up this lengthens the life of the points as the voltage jumps across the points. Remove the ballast resistor (if you have one) it may be the problem. If I were you I'd get a CDI unit and hook it back up the way they were supposed to be. I use a MSD.(didn't want to pay the price of a Bosch unit).
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69 911 2.3Ez 85 928S |
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There is no white dot on the magnetic sleeve. Do I leave the white tape on the petronix unit?
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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Band.
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Don't worry about the dot, it doesn't matter. Take the tape off. Yes, you can gap with a regular gapping tool.
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1983 SC Coupe 1963 BMW R60/2 1972 Triumph Tiger 1995 Triumph Daytona SuperIII |
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In maintenance phase
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I've just been through all the same pain. I even have a similar setup, a 69T, although mine is a 2.2. I just installed a pertronix and it was actually a bad unit.
Don't dismiss the possibility of DOA pertronix. Don't worry at all about the gap, there is no adjustment for p-car distributors, it is what it is, and it isn't very critical in the first place. The way I tested mine to ensure it was dead was to 1. leave the red power lead connected. 2. disconnect the black lead 3. hook up your meter red lead to the black wire, and black lead to ground 4. have an assistant crank. 5. look for intermittent 12v. If you have constant 12v, or no 12v, then you have a problem. I mention this because I just got a bad one, bought from our host, and it's possible there is a bad batch out there. Good luck! BTW, my car came the same way as yours from a PO: I strongly recommend the MSD unit with an MSD coil. The blue coil is not correct for a CD application. Somehow it's electrically incompatible, wrong resistance or something. (I'm not an engineer, I've just dealt with this exact problem on my car and know what worked for me) I tried a blue coil and it didn't work well at all. The black coil that our host sells is correct for either the CD box or the MSD, or good old Blaster2 coil will take care of you too. Best of luck, Feel free to pm if you need any help, Dan |
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Thanks everybody! Got to it this morning and it turns out that my gap was just way off as was the timing. Now everything is working great. Thanks for the advice about the MSD. I will look into that in the future.
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1969 911T - The "Rat" 1997 A4 Quattro 2.8 (270k) - Black Kaniget - Dead but not forgotten 2010 Jetta TDI Sportwagen - Egg Butt (also Spewing Dragon) 2001 Eurovan Weekender - Bruni |
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