Hard Oil Line Question

[rennch]

Hi,

I've put my (Euro 3.0, no front oil cooler) engine in my 69 after previously having it in my 72 911. I've always had a braided stainless line running from the bottom of the engine to the oil tank, but it's developed a leak, so I've decided to go with the OEM hard line. I picked up a hard line from Tom over at CarQuip, but I'm not really certain it's the correct line. I've attached a pic...do I have the right part, and if I do, what else do I need to mount it?

Thanks!

mto

[DRACO A5OG]

I posted a similar thread about how to tighten that oil line at the driver side heat exchanger. I have a leak at the nut.

I found it impossible to place a wrench there.

Does anyone know what the trick is?

Sorry not sure if it is the correct hard line for your car.

[LuftWaffle]

Depends on the exhaust you are running. If you have the later SC/3.2 exchangers then, yes, it's the right line that runs behind the case. If you have the earlier exchangers or SSI's then you need the version the runs under where the case and transaxle mate. -John

[DRACO A5OG]

So how do you tighten it???

[rennch]

John, I think I need the latter. I have earlier heat exchangers for sure. I'll swap the part...

[DRACO A5OG]

Michael,

Please keep us posted as how you were able to tighten that fitment at the heat exchanger.

Jim

[Chuck Moreland]

Michael, you need crossover part # 911 107 720 11. This is a special '72 year only part and extends from the case to the '72 only oil filter console.

Lufftwaffle's advise would have been correct for any year, except the '72 like you have.

Jim, You need to remove the heat exchanger. There is no way to get a wrench on there with the heat ex in place.

[rennch]

Hi Chuck...I don't have a 72, I have a 69. I USED to have a 72.

[DRACO A5OG]

Thanks Chuck, I did remove the heat Exchanger when I replaced the gaskets, but there is no way a wrench could fit in there.

I hate to use a chisel.

[timmy2]

Jim,
I was able to tighten that fitting with the exchanger removed using one of the Harbor freight wrenches I've seen talked about here. Tight fit but I was able to do it without denting my brand new oil tubes!
15 Piece Metric Service Wrench Set

[DRACO A5OG]

Perfect Dennis!

That is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks so much Brother!

My next step was to grind down a wrench or chisel but this is much easier

Jim

Originally Posted by timmy2

Jim,
I was able to tighten that fitting with the exchanger removed using one of the Harbor freight wrenches I've seen talked about here. Tight fit but I was able to do it without denting my brand new oil tubes!
15 Piece Metric Service Wrench Set

[timmy2]

You'll find a dead blow hammer will be your friend while you're under there too! The wrenches are short so either use a pipe on the end to extend it or the afforementioned sand hammer.

[DRACO A5OG]

Copy that

[Chuck Moreland]

Oops, missed that bit about the engine coming OUT of a '72.

Now you have a different problem because the '69 has a 26mm fitting on the tank. The 3.0 liter has a 30mm fitting.

The correct OEM crossover part for the 30mm fitting is 91110773910. But the OEM mating hose 911 107 728 00 will not fit directly onto the tank.

You can use the OEM hose # 911 107 728 00 with our 26mm to 30mm adapter our # 0121100. You may need to have the hose shortened on the OEM line to accommodate the length of the adapter, sometime you do sometimes you don't.

Draco, don't use a chisel. You should be able to fit a wrench on there, though I know the oil return tube does encroach. You need to get the right angle on the wrench, but it does work.

[joefrantz]

Draco

This little doodad works great on that connection. Doesn't interfere with the return tubes. Put it over the line first, and slide it sideways onto the nut.
I just tightened mine this afternoon. I keep this wrench just for the one application.

Joe

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-PW-OLW

[DRACO A5OG]

emptyo, sorry to have hi-jacked your thread, but I am certain you will see how difficult it will be to tighten that nut.

Thanks fellas, for the leads.

J

[timmy2]

I have the wrench Joe Frantz mentioned as well. Didn't use it for that spot. I probably just grabbed what was on the bench when I went to tighten it. I'm sure it would do the trick too.

[j911brick]

I think your asking for trouble if you don't convert the entire cooling system to 30mm.

[Walt Fricke]

I think the simplest system for tightening the engine case oil fitting is to install a removeable oil return tube at that one spot. Then no special wrenches are needed, and you can counterhold the case fitting while tightening (and especially when loosening) the oil line nut. You are apt to be doing this parts swapping in conjunction with an oil change (or at least a drain) anyway, no?