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*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Leaking Cold Start Valve
82 SC
Developed big fuel leak today at CSV. Going to try to replace washers at banjo fitting where the hard line connects to the valve. Is this a common failure point? Or is it more likely that the CSV itself is to blame? Gotta start carrying my extinguisher! |
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CSV leak.........
Quote:
Craig, The CSV is very robust and if it develops leak/s, it is usually the magnetic valve not sealing properly. The leak is controlled inside the system (internal leak). In your case, it would be external somewhere at the fitting where the crash washers could be the culprit. Could you share with us the exact culprit for your problem? Thanks. Tony |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Tony,
Replacing the crush washers on the fuel line to the CSV didn't work. As you know, it is very difficult to assess the leak on a component that is at the back of the engine. I'm having a hard time pin pointing the location. However, I can tell you that the electrical plug gets wet (which is higher than the fuel line - this kinda puzzles me). It isn't like fuel is spraying, it just drips heavily. When I turn the car off it really pours - accumulator trying to hold pressure but fuel is bleeding at the CSV. Here is a pic I took prior to the rebuild a few years ago. You can see that I have a hard fuel line with a banjo fitting. I replaced those two washers at the banjo. See how the plug is higher than the fuel line? ![]()
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82 911SC Coupe Chiffon / Chocolate 9.5 JEs, 964 Cams, SSIs, Dansk Exhaust, CIS (SOLD) |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Has anyone ever replaced a CSV with the engine in the car? Just wondering what I'm up against. It is somewhat accessible so I'd rather not drop the engine if possible ... plus I have my father's car currently occupying my lift.
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It's a pain in the but in the car, harder with metal fuel lines I think. Getting those two hex heads back in while aligning the valve are a real treat. But it can be done. Also check that the frequency valve above it is not leaking. I had a frequency valve leaking fuel from the plug on the valve.
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
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Scott,
Good point about the FV. I'll have to check that too. I should have reached up there a bit higher. Thanks, Craig |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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It is the CSV. And it appears to be spraying. Really dumping a lot of fuel.
So it begs the question ... flange, flange o-rings, gasket or the actual CSV? Do I replace everything? |
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I do it all the time........
Quote:
Craig, It is tight and I've replaced CSV's in situ and without lowering the engine. But for those people who have bigger forearms would be a challenge so a partial drop is suggested. And to make the test simplier and more convenient, I use these gizmos for the testing: ![]() ![]() I use a special fuel extension and wires to pressurize and spray test. This is very critical for testing fuel leak with the engine installed. The simple test will show you if the CSV is leaking or not. Plus you could inspect the spray pattern during cranking. If you want to use these, please PM me your address and will have it FedEx. Return them when you're done. Tony |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Thanks Tony. Nice set up there! I really appreciate the offer.
Right now I'm torn on what to do. My local shop says they can fix it in about 2 hours since I have backdated heat and no a/c. They have a skinny guy working there ![]()
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82 911SC Coupe Chiffon / Chocolate 9.5 JEs, 964 Cams, SSIs, Dansk Exhaust, CIS (SOLD) |
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: MYR S.C.
Posts: 17,321
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hey craig. it seems odd that it would only do it after you shut the engine off.
try a mirror and flash light to see back there to figure out where it is leaking. if you need a CSV or if there is anything else you may need, let me know. check the return line from the WUR back to the FD. that is the only thing that i can think of that would not have any real pressure on it while it is running and then would have pressure when the engine is turned off.
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86 930 94kmiles [_ ![]() 88 BMW 325is 200K+ SOLD 03 BMW 330CI 220K:: [_ ![]() 01 suburban 330K:: [_ ![]() RACE CAR:: sold Last edited by T77911S; 12-05-2011 at 10:58 AM.. |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
I've had my shop light, 2 mirrors and a mag light pointed back there. It is all coming from the CSV but I can pinpoint exact location - can't tell if it is at the base where the gasket is or if it is running out of the plastic sleeve. There is a harness wire obstructing my view and there isn't any way to move it. Thanks for offering to help. I'm going to have it towed to Stan's tomorrow. He told me he has a pretty sweet lighting and mirror setup that he uses. I'll keep ya posted on what he finds.
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Local shop confirmed that the cold start valve had an internal leak.
PP sells the genuine Porsche CSV for roughly $280. But there is a Bosch CSV for $150. Is it okay to use the Bosch CSV?
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Cold Start Valve......
Quote:
Craig, The OEM CSV is Bosch (0-280-170-412) for your engine (3.0 liter SC). What number are you using this time? Tony |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
Hope it is indeed the correct part.
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CSV replacement........
Quote:
Craig, Do you know the Bosch part number in your old CSV? Why would you like to use a different one instead of a similar replacement part? These Bosch CSV's are common fuel injection parts and should be readily available unless they stopped producing them lately. Keep us posted. Thanks. Tony |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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Given what you have going on, suck it up and pay the shop.
It is literally a painful experience changing it in the car. I am big boned and it beat the hell out of me. Bosch made the original parts for Porsche. If it is simply the Bosch OEM part # you reference, it should be fine. |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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The shop has the car and asked me to order the part. So I'm paying them for labor only. I imagine that the new CSV will end up being the same as the old. But will certainly verify.
I'll keep y'all posted. |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Tony-
Any idea why PP would be asking $280 for a "common" part? I don't get it. Last edited by mca; 12-08-2011 at 03:38 AM.. |
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Fleabit peanut monkey
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The 930 CSV is circa $600 for genuine Porsche. I would stick with the Bosch alternative providing it is the correct application.
Agree, it is very expensive at the $300 mark. |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
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Part arrived: Bosch# 0-280-170-402
According to Bosch's site 0-280-170-409 is the correct number for the 3.0 and the one I received is for a 2.7. Who the hell knows. Last edited by mca; 12-08-2011 at 03:53 PM.. |
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