Pelican Parts Forums - Steering column bushing ordered...any tips?

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- - Steering column bushing ordered...any tips? (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=64606)

Many have had decent results with the 928 sleeve. I can see why it wouldn't work for everyone- the steering shaft upper bearings from 911s from 65-89 are not the same

65-69 is listed as p/n 695 347 711 00
70-73 is listed as p/n 914 347 711 00
74-77 may have originally been equipped with 911 347 771 00, which was later superceded by 911 347 771 02
78-89 supposedly were originally equipped with 911 347 771 02

Whatever the case, the typical fix is to push out the plastic sleeve and insert the 928 metal part. But some have said it's not much of an improvement.

Therefore, the next step is to replace the entire original bearing. The question was asked, is there a puller to get the bearing out of the steering column tube. None that I have heard of. The clearances between the ID of the bearing and the OD of the shaft are MUCH too tight to fit any typical puller. The only sure fire way to get the bearing out and put in a new one is to remove the column tube and disassemble it like I show above. NOT a fun job. :(

Just started doing it about 1/2 hour ago, got home, pulled wheel, see here: <img src="http://www.wmsbrg.com/porsche/columnbushing.jpg">

<p>Parts on order!

Installed! Picked out the trash and the new piece basically slid in by hand, no pressing, hammering or anything else required. Column now tighter than it was, almost no slop (maybe .010"), less than some other vehicles here with far better column design.

I think the biggest difficulty here throughout was getting the steering wheel nut back on! Now there's two tight nuts behind the wheel of this 911 again...

Chip
89 911 440 82.9k

Thanks for blazing the trail on this problem. I'm next.

My 1987 developed steering wheel play/rattle yesterday. Thought at first that my Momo hub was loose, but now see that it's the factory plastic sleeve that has failed. Pulled wheel and lots of plastic shrapnel.

Just tried the spray paint lid trick and it worked like a charm! Instant gratification - and rare no cost fix! :D

Did anyone try the method posted up front of this thread by drilling a small hole in the steering column tube and tapping out the bearing with a rod?

Pete917,
I just replaced entire bushing. I actually drilled holes in the casing of the bushing and used small hooks to pull it out. Well, they only worked for a bit and then I had enough material to grab onto with a pliers and finished the job. Tapped the new one in and wll was good. About 45mins if I recall. The drilling of holes was plan B, but I didn't need it. That said, it seems like a failry simple job. A lot easier than taking the entire column out. Do a search with my name as I don't recall the title of the thread I posted in. PM me if you have questions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by naparsei (Post 3273633)

I'm in the contingent that is waiting for a definitive answer for the longhood solution. Anyone, anyone?

I've been told the 928 part will NOT work.

I have a 1973.5 car and keep hoping it somehow has the '74-on configuration. It certainly has some '74ish stuff going on in the rear interior, so there is hope.

Do a search, "steering wheel bushing" and you'll come up with a lot of information on repairs. Here's one link that discusses the removal of the top roller bearing: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=486096&highlight=replace+steering +bushing

Steering column bushing...

If you'll do a search for, "steering column bushing" you'll find a lot of information on the subject. Including the discussion and removal of the roller bearing: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=486096&highlight=steering+column+ bushing

Quote:

Originally Posted by RWebb (Post 4837983)

Sorry Randy, take it from me, for a 1973.5, you have the spring and the bushing to control the wobble, not the plastic unit.

What parts are you missing?

There is a posting somewhere here on how to make a bushing from a can. If you need the spring, I suspect any spring that matches the diameter of the bushing and is about as long as the stub on the steering wheel will work.

no parts are missing - I am just anticipating possible future problems...

Update- Bearing & Bushing Replacement, No Column Removal Required

Just wanted to update this thread since I linked to it in another recent thread about the lower bearing.

mickey356 posted how to replace the upper bearing w/out removing the entire column (which I have mentioned several times is a very awful job to do), by drilling & cutting the upper bearing casing and pulling it out with hooks or picks.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/486096-steering-column-bushing.html

I recall trying to drill the casing and thought it was a bit hard to do. Maybe I was being stupid and didn't realize my bit was dull. Good to see a solution to avoiding removal of the entire column. Have I mentioned removing the column sucks real bad? :D

I did mine the old fashioned way. Took a while, but I figured it's the steering ;)

replacing the steering column bearing

Quote:

Originally Posted by pete917 (Post 5867861)

I did mine the old fashioned way......replacing the steering column bearing

Yup, …. and tho an absolute mongrel of a job that it is … Steering, and Brakes tends to have that same effect on me too, Pete.

G’day Kevin, SmileWavy terrific to see you’re still here contributing. Ole die hard … must be more to life than rattly old steering columns ??? …. Ah, Nope !! When it happens (& not if) it will totally distract and consume you till it’s fixed.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sean Hamilton (Post 5872081)

I agree Sean. If it has any impact on safety, then you have to do it right. I must admit though, it is a sod of a job.....

Security bolts are a *****

I have successfully removed a three security bolts on the column and the two holding in the ignition switch. The two security screws on the ignition switch were quite easy with a LH twist drill bit. The two security screws inside the dash were miserable until I cut slots in them with my cut off wheel. There is definitely a learning cure here, When I did this 20 years ago on a my 83 SC it seems like it took me days.

David

Cut a slot in the head for my stubby screw driver.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587913359.jpg

Stubby screw driver and some leverage

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1587913544.jpg

Done, painted and assembled with new bearings and Mitch Leland's bushing. Amazing how much easier it is to turn the shaft with the new bearings.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588525398.jpg

Free factory steering wheel Bushing

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588529157.jpg

Good work Harpo!

Those round head bolts are shear bolts.

I don't know this for sure, but I presume the factory used these to assure the steering system was torqued correctly with evidence.
The bolt heads shear at a known torque.

I decided to leave mine in there and did the bearing replacement in situ.

Was your column painted black originally?

It looks nice black!

Tom,

I think the shear bolts are an anti-theft measure? The ignition lock has similar, but smaller, bolts with heads that also twist off when fully tightened.

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 10850958)

Tom,

I think the shear bolts are an anti-theft measure? The ignition lock has similar, but smaller, bolts with heads that also twist off when fully tightened.

Good thought. I pity the fool who steals a car with the steering wheel in his/her lap.

Just seemed like a good idea to paint it black

Just finished replacing the bushing. Noticed a few weeks back that suddenly I had vertical movement in the steering wheel. Easy job, no issues but it took me about a half hour from start to finish. Thirty seven year government man I work slow and take breaks.

Lash

Lashhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588800432.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588800432.jpg

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 1542149)

Here's an idea of what's needed to get the steering column tube out of the car. Only then can you work on it in a vise and drive out the bearing(s)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1096899118.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1096899136.jpg

What needs to be removed in order to get the column out, you ask? :rolleyes:

In the front trunk:

-Disconnect negative battery cable

-Fresh air vent beneath the windshield wipers (so you can remove the control box next).

-Fresh air control box and it's associated cables & hoses (an annoying job in and of itself)

-Steering shaft cover on the floor of the trunk. The guy @ Porsche who decided to use speed nuts for fastening this thing needs a punch in the head.

-Smuggler's box lid (helps with all the climbing around the trunk you'll be doing)

-Steering shaft u-joints @ the steering rack connection in the smuggler's box and @ the connection to the column shaft behind the dashboard. Good idea to use a permanent marker and mark the orientation of the shafts to the u-joints so you reinstall them the same way they came apart. By the way, you must completely remove the bolt in order to slide the joint off the shaft.

-Don't drop any bolts into the smuggler's box or you'll be taking out the evaporator assembly too............. Been there. Done that. :( I won't go into how you remove the evap. thing. Figure it out yourself for being such an idiot and dropping stuff into the hole like that........... If you have A/C that is working? Don't you dare take out that evap. assembly! http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/nono.gif

Inside the car:

-Steering wheel

-Steering column plastic covers

-Turn signal, windshield wiper, and cruise control (if applicable) stalks

-Tachometer (to get at the two upper shear bolts)

-Ignition switch cover. Spins right off.

-Dashboard lower kneepad. This is so you can get a good angle with your Dremel tool (for the upcoming ignition switch screws) and lets you later get at the steering wheel lock nut and threaded pin. Believe me. Removing this pad will save you some cursing. There's two nuts holding this pad in place. One one the far left behind the HVAC vent and one on the far right that is behind a bunch of wiring and really hard to get at with any sort of tool. 1/4 in. universal joint for your socket is your friend here.

-Lower left HVAC vent on the dashboard. This is so you can get at the nut that secures the knee pad. Be gentle. These are easy to break. You have to release the clips with a flathead screwdriver by putting the screwdriver in the slots of the vent and pushing to release the clips. Easier said than done!

-Two shear bolts/anti-theft screws for ignition switch. You need to slot these with a Dremel cutting wheel so you can back them out. They have blue threadlocking paste on them and you'll need to use a screwdriver bit on a ratchet to get them turning.

-Ignition switch assembly. Disconnect it's wire harness. After you remove the two screws, you must remove the nut and threaded pin which holds the steering wheel lock to the column tube. The nut comes off no problem. The trick is the threaded pin has a 5mm (or is it 4mm? can't remember) hex key opening in the end of it. Put the key in and turn the threaded pin out. Wiggle out the ignition switch, lock assembly.

-Three shear bolts holding the column into the dash. Two are in the tachometer hole and the last is underneath the dashboard. A pair of baby curved-jaw vise grips works great on the smooth heads.

Here's a picture of the shear bolts for the ignition switch (left) and steering column tube (right).

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1096901192.jpg

You can see how I slotted the ignition bolts. Look close at the other bolt and you can see the teeth marks from the baby vise grips. I love baby vise grip pliers.

After removing/disconnecting all the above crap, the column can be wiggled out.

Now you get to take the thing over to your vise and work on getting out the shaft & bearings. What fun this is, eh?

:rolleyes:

Old, old thread but wanted to say thanks to KTL for the small vice grips idea.

My 86 had a loose steering column and thought I was doomed with the three shear bolts holding it in (albeit, loosely) and found that they actually can be tightened, or removed, with small vice grips.

Tightened down and play was removed!

Thank god for these old threads!

Erik

Quote:

Originally Posted by fallingat120mph (Post 12495176)

Erik,

Glad to see the info I shared was helpful. The mini vise grips are a great rescue tool. Whoever invented vise grips is a godsend.

Thanks for the thanks!

Not to hijack the thread, just had a related question--my steering column had been messed with when I got the car. The turn signal cancellation was removed and the bushing was a bit crumbled.

I replaced my bushing with a rennline one, but I have not been able to figure out what the snap ring is for. Mine fits loosely on the groove, and removiing it or leaving it makes no difference. My steering wheel does make a friction sounding as something is rubbing so I was wondering what the purpose of that snap ring was.

Thanks!

The snap ring/circlip acts as a stop for the steering wheel hub

I happened to have a spare steering column assembly on the shelf in my basement and checked the fit of the steering wheel on the column shaft. The wheel hub is definitely stopped by the circlip

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752501015.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1752501069.jpg

But honestly the steering wheel hub is also stopped by the end of the shaft where the splines end. The shaft is larger diameter there, so the hub can’t go any further. I think the circlip just prevents the hub from damage when you tighten the main nut for the steering wheel? Because without the circlip, the hub could push past the end of the male splines on the shaft? I’m not entirely sure on that belief because I didn’t take any measurements

Thank you Kevin, that makes complete sense now that I see your picture. I have a Momo hub and it makes a slight grinding noise as I go around, and the clip itself is deformed. I had put grease on that point but now that I've seen your picture I will try putting a new clip on and see if that sorts it all out. Thank you!

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 12497680)

Quote:

Originally Posted by r55forme (Post 12497688)

Good stuff! Who would have thunk' all these years later...KTL (Kevin) is still answering such unique questions...If you are ever driving through Missouri first drink is on me!

Nicely done sir!

Erik

:D

Ain’t dead yet. Still rolling along in life but not able to play with the car like I used to do. Life DEFINITELY gets in the way for me much more than it ever did years ago!

Maybe someday I’ll find some time to get back to reassembling my eternal Humpty Dumpty project in pieces all over the garage & basement?

Quote:

Originally Posted by KTL (Post 12497906)

Well, your vice grip advice got me from Weston, MO to OKC for the Porsche Parade. I even removed the HVAC to check on everything and knew it had to be those 'damn' bolts.

When the first one turned a bit with some very small vice grips I knew I had learned something new that day...

Keep on Truckin' my friend!

Erik