you know to never get under a car that is on a just a jack, right?

Post #16, 17 and 18 talk about changing them out. What were your thoughts after reading those?

It is far easier to change the entire axle out as a unit. It is the cost that is the issue. You are going to have to make that decision.

Update!!
Ok, so i got my new axle and bearings (as a whole) from pelican fitted it today.... and guess what... NOISE is still there!!!!

While i was under the car i was looking at the heat exchangers. The flanges that were connected to the engine were tight, although at the other end, the whole thing was loose. As if all the welds had broken. could this have something to do with the noise?

Additionally that brake line looked like it has some white mayonnaise on it, is this a lose vacuum on the brake fluid? causing the brake pad to close?

Thanks again in advanced guys.

Are you talking about the shield around the exhaust tubes that carry the air over them. Yes, they can rattle if loose. Mine did at the right RPM.

Loose brake line (seepage) would not cause the pad to close / not retract but dirt and crud in your rear caliper piston/bore sure could do that.

Asking to make sure - you are talking about the pad that contacts the rotor and not the brake shoe that contacts the drum. Yes?

I have been looking at everything today and have a few questions to ask.

should the e brake line be loose?? as in i can rattle it back and forth? could this be causing the rattle is the e-brake is too lose when not engaged? The e brake works when engages only on the 4th click, not the 3rd click.

The rattle is only on hard acceleration from a stand still, although past 3k rpm 1st gear. if i take it slow past 3k rpm in 1st gear up to 5-6 the rattle is not there.

The brake line looks to be tight (my bad got the e brake and brake lines mixed up).

what does everyone think??

Make sure the spacers on the handbrake cables are seated into the hub properly, they can become loose/dislodged and rub/rattle on the CV joint in certain cases, ask me how i know !!!
Hope this helps.
Anthony.

Hey Guys!
Another update. So i adjusted the e brake shoes to spec (101 projects) and still nothing... The rattle is still there.
A thought that passed my mind.. Could the limited diff cause this rattle sound. As the sound is only on acceleration. when going at the same speed and clutch in there is no sound. I have never changed the transmission oil before. I can't find anything in service records from the previous owner, that say it has been changed before either. Swepco 201?? could lack of fluid in the tranny cause this?

After going to my mechanic to diagnose what the sound is. He said that it's the timing chain is loose on the right hand side. He suggested that i upgrade to the carrera style tensioners. Although when revving the engine at idle i can't replicate the sound. it is only when on acceleration above 3-4k rpm in 1st or 2nd.

Changed the tranny fluid to swepco.. better shifting, althoguh the noise is still there.

Do you guys this it is the timing chains? wouldn't it make the sound at stand still at high revs if it were.

Any help guys! thanks!

does it happen in neutral, when you rev it?

noise comes from the chain covers?

sound like a chain in a metal garbage can?

I'd do the tensioners no matter what, tho

Only way to really know is to pull covers off and inspect. Be very carefull because if this is the case you could break a chain ramp which in turn could could fall down and get lodged between the chain and cover. Ask me how I know.

The sound doesn't happen in neutral. Only happens in gear and above 3k rpm.
I will change to the carrera tensioners at some stage. i'll open it all up and have a look this weekend.

My guy feeling is that it is transmission related. How do i check if my differential is ok?? anything there that would be making a loud sound at high rpm

I have tried to record it. you can hear it at the top end. coming from the right rear wheel. Additionally i was looking at my wheels today. It looks like the rear right wheel has some sort of camber, in comparison to the other side????

911 sc - YouTube

any ideas?

It's a whole lot easier to change the whole axle assembly with both CV's than to change just a CV, and you'll have all new components.

It's also the perfect time to change the wheel bearing on the affected side. You might also find that the wheel bearing has failed and is causing or adding to the noise.

Lots of very good instructive threads with pictures on these procedures, and a very do-able DIY job, but it must be done with care as a poor installation can cause a really ugly and dangerous failure.

Good Luck!

I have read where a broken head stud can make a noise similar to thumbing through a deck of cards quickly. It's not the stud making the noise but the head flapping against the cylinder allowing compression to escape.

It sounds a little like that but given a constant compression ratio why wouldn't you hear the noise at a lower rpm as well?

If it is not that (would need to pull covers and check nuts on head studs) there is something that is impacted when the engine is under heavy torque. That makes me think maybe the engine/trans twists too much under heavy load. Check the condition of you motor mounts and the cross supporting bar. The bar can break at the thinnest part of the neck near the big retaining bolt. Mounts can be shot - two at trans two at rear of car. Fasteners can be loose.

Did you get the exhaust parts tightened down real well? You mentioned some movement.

There have been a lot of bad cv joint threads lately!
I just joined that club as well... Replacing entire axle as opposed to inner and outer cv joints etc. just easier to replace the axle..

My question it, does jacking the car up and releasing it down put stress on the cv joints and cause early degradation? I had my SC up and down off jack stands maybe 10x in the last 3 months fixing oil leaks, exhaust, clutch cable etc. now I have a bad drivers side axle....hmmm

Any connection? It seems the high angle the wheel and cv joint come to rest at when releasing it from the jack stands puts stress on the cv joints... You know what I'm talking about? Where the wheels look like a vintage VW with positive camber as the wheel is pinched inwards before the car rolls out lowering the angle of the cv joints?

Wonder if the OP had this happen to his cv joints when they changed his tires?

Am I crazy?

It looks like the OP has a lot of cv joint grease on his transaxle, could point to failure as well.. I didn't catch which cv joint he replaced inner or outer or both...

I noticed my outer cv joint flung grease through the front of my rear wheel...I remember thinking, why is my wheel always greasy? Doh!

Ok, that is the same sound my SC makes/made before the cv joint thoroughly let go...

It started out quietly at mid range rpm, then within 75miles rattled terrible with the typicle cv joint click/clunk, click/clunk or light knocking/rattling sound like the OP video...

I did valve adjust and verified all head studs accounted for, next service I will be checking the torque on the head studs!

Pretty easy to jack up one side and pop off the lower valve covers to verify head studs are intact... Careful supporting jack stands etc of course! I place my wheels with a 2x6 on top of the wheel under the floor of my car in addition to jack stands?.cant be to carefull right?!

Edit: Bentley states to not mistake leaking / faulty axle flange seal (which causes trans to be noisy via low fluid and/or damage) for a leaking cv joint boot and/ or failed cv joint... Best to degrease the area to pin point the leak...

Good point - it's the lower set that usually fail.

OP installed a new axle shaft complete so that is what has me steering away from the CV joints.

Is the axle flange seal the seal for the stub axle (radial seal) entering the transmission case? This would be the only place oil would leak with respect to the axle and transmission.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1345658850.jpg

When my CVs went, I attempted rebuilds. Had a shop do them as I hate dealing with that nasty grease. Those failed as well.

I went to Eric at PMBperformance.com and bought a complete axle with CVs. Did both sides, nary a peep since....4 years now.

Yes, that's the seal #10 in the diagram. Has the trans fluid level and condition been verified?