Cool Collar works????

[JMPRO]

I read somwhere that the Porsche engineers idea was that the tire rotating in the fender caused a vortex of air that followed the tire. This caused a rush of air behind the oil cooler causing a low pressure area behind the cooler therefor a high pressure area in front of the cooler . This would help to max the flow of air in a simingly confined space. My thinking is that there is no need for ducting behind the scoop because once it is in the fender cavity it has nowhere to go but through the oil cooler. The path of least resistance and the low pressure area behind the oil cooler is sucking it along.
my 2cents
Jerry

[k9handler]

agree Jerry,
the idea is to make the air flow directly in front of the cooler...and the guard around the cooler forces the air through it and thus the air can't go around, above, or below the cooler. I guess this may all be a little extreme the more I think of it, but I am willing to go the extra mile to cool my baby.

[island911]

While I have a lot of respect for those who bring product to market, this respect wanes when those push mediocre (at best) products.
While I believe the intent of this tech-board is to "bring to light" many solid solutions (and the parts needed to support); we also need to be critical of mediocre solutions. . . .even at the risk of offending those with the thermal conviction, et al.

In the case of coolcollars and peak-a-boo nozzles, I believe there are better solutions to be had; yet many people don't want to step up and share, as it might offend those who are profiting from a "solution". (So always consider lack of enthusiasm.)

k9handler -- the fin cooler, w/ the shield/shroud sound like a solid solution. Also, perhaps, doing like Porsche on the Carreras, make an opening on the underside of the bumper . .. this is a high pressure zone (read: lots-o-air)

Well that's my 2¢ worth . . .though you may feel better with someone else's "$200 worth."

[Kurt B]

Originally posted by island911
Air volume moving over the oilcooler is key.
This guy had a large (for fender mount) finned oilcooler. So I suppose it's possible the the directed flow is better for something smaller. . . is your oil cooler the size of the directed flow opening?

Right. Basically, you want to maximize the number of fresh, less energetic atoms contacting the the oil cooler and moving away.

The problem with the scoop is that is replaces the wrong marker. The scoop should replace the front light, not the side one.

You do want the air stream directed onto the cooler without sacrificing the mass of incoming air.

If there is no stream onto the cooler then you get a maelstrom of excited, moderately warm atoms surrounding the cooler, repelling the cooler, incoming air. And you don't want that.

On the other hand, the inlet is much smaller than the opening it replaces which is clearly is a function of where the duct is placed. It should be right in front of the cooler(where the other parking light/blinker is).

Which is why you need a differently designed scoop to replace the front most marker light rather than the rear one.

I don't know which is the blinker, but in any case you don't NEED parkings lights, so just make the rear one your blinker and use a 964 style duct IN FRONT. This is why I don't have the black scoops.

[JMPRO]

island911 seems to proclamed himself hall moniter on this and many other threads so step up and find a reasonable, effective and economical solution to these questions. Every ones wishs and prayers can't be answered with one solution. Thought was given in the original design of the scoop to replacing the blinker w/ the scoop and rewiring the side light to be a blinker and park light. Not an easy bolt on solution for many P- owners and the europian version has no side light to rewire. Make a scoop to replace the blinker w/ a built in light--more expence{double the price} and you still wind up w/ a small opening for the scoop because you added the light. You can't be all things to all people but the cooler scoop is performing quite nicely for over 500 customers so far.
Jerry

[island911]

Originally posted by Doug Zielke
Oh, island911...where are youuuuuu????

You see, Doug proclamed me hall moniter on this. ( Likely due to the ping-pong match over on the Coolcollar thread a while back; and the lack of counter-points here again)

[mbuhrig]

I have seen a lot of cooler scoop banter (which I have enjoyed), however, I have not seen any real info on the original question about the cool collar. I HAVE seen a difference in temp via the stock VDO temp gauge, whether nominal or not. I think my only hope is to run my own test to see what the real benefits might be.
My $.02 …

[Sunroof]

Look I am not a thermodynamics expert or hold an engineering degree in fluid dynamics; however, I will tell you though that I did purchase a cooler collar for my 2.4 liter and I did notice a difference in the temperature gauge of 10+ degrees on very hot Georgia afternoons. I even went as far as to additionally install the heet sheets as an extra measure. Granted the 2.4 is not known for overheating, but if I can keep the temp. at 200-220 on the hottest summer days even with AC then I achieved some small victory and extended some life in the engine.

I have been driving air-cooled Porsches for over 25 years fellas and learned alot along the way. Snake oil or not, I do SEE a change on my gauge and its telling me something is happening.
For the small price it was certainly worth the purchase. For now I will just rely on what my eyes are seeing and leave behind all the hypothesis.

Regards
Bob
73.5T

[mbuhrig]

Well said and thank you Bob... I just wanted to see if anyone else has seen it work or if my eyes were deceiving me.
Marc

[Wayne 962]

There are many, many threads on this topic. In the past, we must have had 30-75 people say that they had bought the cool collar and it worked. I think that we only had one returned in our history, and that's because it didn't fit with the A/C system properly or something like that.

The truth of the matter is that it works. It lowers your engine oil temperatures by about 10 degrees on average. There is no disputing this, we have tons of people who will agree. People like Island who are cool collar malcontents will complain about better solutions that don't exist. If you have something better, then step up to the plate and stop complaining. You designed your valve adjust tool, so come up with a better solution for reducing engine oil temps for about $30...

This is indeed a challenge...

-Wayne

P.S. The original thread mentioned percentages. You can't compare temperatures with percentage values because temperature is relative. As one poster pointed out, the percentage value changes as you change the scale that you are using...

[mbuhrig]

Thanks again for the input I was looking for. Just for the record, citing the “Test Results Laboratory Test”, http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/cool_collar/cool_collar.htm:
“Summary: With a constant heat source applied to the oil, the temperature dropped to 202 degrees F (from 220 degrees F.) with five minutes. This translates to a 12% temperature decrease of the heat added to ambient temperature.”

Fahrenheit temps and scale was all I was going by and is where the figure of 12% came from.

Marc

PS Wayne I look forward to purchasing your latest book and CD!

[Kurt B]

When I get this, we'll settle the issue once and for all.
Remember, I am a superhero known as MathMan (retired).

I will determine the fate, once and for all, of the cool collar. No seat of the pants business here. No from-the-hip guesstimation.

Just straight up analysis.
The future of this device is on my shoulders.

[CamB]

I still reckon that although it might work (I have no idea), if it does, won't it inhibit warm-up of the engine??

Sorry JMPRO - same concern also goes for the finned S line to the oil tank.

Is it an issue?

[pbs911]

According to my experiences with the cool collar on my 78SC, it works. My temp guage showed a decline in oil temp of a little less than 10 degrees.

Besides it looks cool.

[Targa Dude]

Hi Guys..

I see the Cool Collar strikes again..sorry I couldn't take it any longer reading and watching the posted threads was more than I could take. I told myself I wouldn't reply or post anymore threads that had to do with this Genil contraption.
Some of you may be aware of a complementary device that I fabricated a few weeks back that I called for lack of a better name the "Cool Fan" Well My preliminary test results are complete.
I would like to add that these test were not performed in a lab or any testing facility. But were conducted on mt 1977 911S
with a very recently rebuilt 2.7 which most of you would concider a stock performer. I do have a 28 row cooler, No themal reactors,
Modified dual out exhaust, Heat shields on lower Valve covers and No smog equiptment of any kind.

The test equipment I used has been posted on a earlier thread so I wont relist it. Instrumentation was installed on the following Locations: Suspended in Engine compartment, Oil Filter body, and Inside of oil resivoir Tank.

Testing: A total of three individual tests were performed
Test Conditions: Weather Temps 92 Deg F
1. Base line Test, No collar, No Cool Fan
2. Cool Collar Installed.
3. Cool Collar and Cool fan Installed.

1. Base Line Test:
Car was driven to reach operating temp 190 Deg F at which time instumentation was checked and Temp recordings were made.
After recordings car was then brought on the freeway, RPMS were held at 5K for a period of 45 mins. recorded Temp readings.
Engine Temp reached 219 Deg F.
2. Cool Collar installed.
allowed Engine temps to cool down to 170 Deg F before Car was Started and brought up to operating temp.
Repeated Freeway driving conditions as in test 1. Recorded Temp readings.
3. Cool Collar and Cool fan Installed.
like before Engine was allowed to cool down to 170 Deg F before Car was Started and brought up to operating temp.
Repeated Freeway driving conditions as in test 1and 2. . Recorded Temp readings. My Findings were as follows,

Weather Temp 92 Deg F
Ambient Engine compartment Temp:
T-1 117 Deg F, T-2 124 Deg F, T-3 127 Deg F
Oil Filter Body Temp:
T-1 224 Deg F, T-2 213 Deg F 5% Dif, T-3 200 Deg F 12% Dif.
Internal Oil Resivoir Temp:
T-1 222 Deg F, T-2 212 Deg F 5% Dif, T-3 196 Deg F 12 % Dif.
So there you are...
As for me and My Baby. I'm Keeping My Cool Collar and My Fan PERMANENTLY INSALLED.

Jorge (Targa Dude)

PS. The "Cool Fan" was modified to increase air induction.
I will be posting Pics soon on my Home page

[Moses]

Why not mount a fan inside the "cooler scoop"? My SC never overheats when I'm moving, but when I'm stuck in traffic the cooler scoop is havin' a siesta.

As for the cool collar, I can't afford the loss of power. You see the cool collar dissipates the heat into the engine compartment where the air is superheated and expands before intake. This hot, lazy air produces less combustion in the cylinder. I have calculated a net decrease of around 0.03 HP (at the crank).

[Dood]

Now listen class, here are today's lessons:

Lesson 1) Cool Collar = cooling engine

Lesson 2) Vaseline = restoring Fuchs

Summary: Dumb = dumber

[island911]

Originally posted by Wayne at Pelican Parts
. . .People like Island who are cool collar malcontents will complain about better solutions that don't exist. If you have something better, then step up to the plate and stop complaining. You designed your valve adjust tool, so come up with a better solution for reducing engine oil temps for about $30...

This is indeed a challenge...

-Wayne

"Complaining Malcontent" . . .So it's come to that
Well Wayne, if you where paying attention, you would have noticed I've endorsed more economical solutions for each of these products.
1) in this thread, above; ". . .doing like Porsche on the Carreras, make an opening on the underside of the bumper . .. this is a high pressure zone (read: lots-o-air) "
2) Jorge's design effort for cooling the filter, as originally posted as OK Cool Collar Fans.

I know I could do both of these for $30 --total!
Although, while these soln's may cost less, at least they're more thought out.

[Doug Zielke]

"According to Wayne, none have been returned because they didn't work."

Now that's the kind of solid, science-based evidence that should convince all you sceptics for once and for all.

[Wayne 962]

The science-based evidence is in the many, many, many, many, many people who have given their tesimony that the product works...

Enough said...

-Wayne