Project Porsche

[Southbay356]

Originally Posted by Rich76_911s

Lot's of great books out there to read. See if you can get a Carrera Bentley Manual as mentioned above. It is a $90 dollar investment and will educate you greatly on 911's. Easily the best way to spend $90 on your car. Both of Wayne's (the hosts) books 101 projects for your 911 as well as Rebuilding and Modifying Porsche 911 engines are great reads as well.

you can get the books for FREE , well almost , go to the school library and have them order them thru inter library loans , another library loans them to your school library.......maybe you have to pay book rate postage ....

[4boer]

I found this while draining the tank yesterday. It looks like the quick disconnects in the cap have snapped off. On a scale of 1-10, how important is this?





Located here:

[proffighter]

For me 1 (meaning most unimportant), it just shows when expansion tank of brake fluid tends to empty. Can be easy done by visual control too

[livi]

Welcome and good luck with your project! Wonderful color!

[4boer]

Just as I thought, thanks.

[4boer]

Much progress made. Plugs are out. Hats off to Porsche for that spark plug tool.
All of the plugs were oily:



I found two unconnected things in the engine bay. My guess is that the first is for a diagnostic tool (edit: that is the oxygen sensor tester). Wait that means the sensor wasn't even connected?!?!?!?! I have no idea what the quick disconnects are for. Both are located in the red square. Also, can I drive with the A/C lines disconnected? Or take the belt off?

[4boer]

Got some stuff done over the weekend. Replaced DME relay, drained the oil, and hook up the boat battery. The passenger side seat and speakers don't work . There was another unconnected thing under the drivers seat, but I'm not going to worry about it because it almost all works. First time under the car and saw some yucky stuff. This white stuff was in the oil tank drain plug (with some small metallic fragments) and there has to be a bad gasket somewhere:

[porsche930dude]

milky oil is normal for a car that has been sitting. comes from built up condensation. when it gets running and up to temperature that will burn off. you should investigate whats unplugged under the seat. could be important

[4boer]

It started!!! Needed a little help from the throttle but then it roared to life. Thank you to this forum and thank you to everyone who helped and responded.

For those who want to stay on board, there is still more to do. Remember the original problem (running rough)? Well, it still exists, even though I plugged the O2 in. It only runs rough under load. It idles fine and revs in neutral fine. Does that rule out injector problems? Oil spews out of what looks to be the passenger side heat exchange? Also, the key cylinder is hit or miss when trying to start it. I plan to just let that be.

P.S. I plan to make a little video like that epic NSX one about this (I get it from making ski edits).

Pics:

[Jcslocum]

The heat exchanger on the engine, on the pass side is an oil cooler. If it's spewing, you have a major leak. Might not be the cooler tho as there is lots to leak in that general area. Search for triangle of death and you will fin lots of info. I had a similar problem and it was the oil cooler leaking.

Have you inspected inside the fan, on top of the engine yet for mice nets? I had one in back on top of the cooler and they ate a hole in the top oil tube and more. Non fixable part. I picked up a used one and replaced it.

[4boer]

Yikes, I'll take a look over the weekend. Also: there is a two pin unconnected thing near the battery, speedo doesn't work, and there is an exhaust leak at the main connection towards the front of the car.

[911SauCy]

Reg the key being hit or miss, spray WD-40 right in the key hole

These cars are insalnely rewarding, keep your cool (i get frustrated easily) and take your time. It will pay off!

Its truly amazing these things can sit for years and years, a little love and BANG POW...running

there is NO SUBSTITUTE...

[Dublinoh]

Originally Posted by TRE Cup

1) pull the plugs out
2) squirt some marvel mystery oil into each cylinder and let it sit overnight
3) Gently turn the motor over by hand with the plugs out
4) Drain all fluids, replace all filters/ replenish with new fluids- weight oil does not matter much as you will be replacing it again anyway
5) disconnect coil and dme relay (black rectangular relay under driver seat)
6) hook up new battery and turn the ignition / starter over so you spin the motor up to oil pressure (you will see this on the guage to the left of the speedo)
7) have a fire extinguisher and some friends handy to check out bottom of the front of the car, rear underside and engine compartment
8) plug in the dme relay
9) turn the engine over and check for fuel leaks
10) disconnect each injector at the fuel rails/ rig up a couple small leads to "tickle" them with 12 volts- just touching one lead briefly while the other is connected. This will slam the pintel valves open / closed and will most likely help remove the varnish build up
11) Install plugs and Hook up the coil
12) fire it up on the new gas . Now note that the exhaust system will most likely have a lot of oil in it and will smoke like h*ll as it warms up. So the tip here is to remove the cat converter and muffler so this oil can be washed out of the two and any residual oil in the heat exchangers burn off. Of course the marvel mystery oil will contribute to the mosquito fogging experience till it burns off too

Some observations from experience
When cars are parked for a long period of time on old oil, acids form in the block and attack the bearings. We have disassembled 2-5 year stored engines and seen this. You can't add material from the outside, so this means the engine needs a rebuild to get it right. But since you are on a budget, the above procedure is okay to see what your engine can run like.

3.2 motors have fuel lines that crack and rot over time. To save $, these lines can be re-hosed at a local hose supply house, but make sure you clock the fittings correctly and have them pressure test the assemblies before reinstalling them.

If you cannot turn over the motor by hand after an overnite soak with the mmo, then be patient and try again after squirting more in and waiting. You can go counter clockwise a little, then turn clockwise several revolutions by hand

Now that you have it running reread this post carefully. Great looking car by the way...to be 18 and own this car,,,sweet.

[4boer]

I was re-connecting the radio today an accidentally touched the red (constant 12v) and yellow (ignition 12v) together. I blew a 5 amp (yellow) fuse. What store can I get these at? Do I have to order them online?

[Uncle Enzo]

Originally Posted by 4boer

I was re-connecting the radio today an accidentally touched the red (constant 12v) and yellow (ignition 12v) together. I blew a 5 amp (yellow) fuse. What store can I get these at? Do I have to order them online?

Any autozone or parts store. Heck, back in the day you could get them at 7-11. Looking good. Stay focused and bring her back to glory.

[Kidasters]

Good story. Keep at it. Enthusiasm, passion and stubby metric wrenches will get you pretty far.

[4boer]

Over the weekend, I drove the car, my first time driving a clutch btw. I picked it up really quickly. 5 minutes and only 3 stalls later, I was good enough to be on the streets. The only problem is that 1st gear is really hard to find. The clutch is heavy, but I love the non-power steering and brakes. It was a blast. Also, I got the radio soldered in. The stock speakers are awful though. Good thing the engine sounds great.

So, the engine. When ever the engine is under load, no matter what gear, the entire car shakes and vibrates. There is no power either. And it's not being in too high of a gear. Does that fact that we are using 87 instead of 91 make much of a difference?

[kidrock]

4boer,

First of all: good job, you seem to have a wisdom (and balls) beyond your years. Very admirable.

2nd: unfortunately, your car is still running a little rough, which sometimes takes a bit of diagnosing. Almost anything could be causing a rough running issue: plugs, cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter, AFM, speed sensor, injectors blah blah blah.

The situation you want to try to avoid is skipping the diagnostics and running blindly into throwing money and parts at it in blindly attempting to solve the actual problem. Hell, we've all done it (especially me). Oh, and make sure to dump the 87 octane. You must run at least 91 in these cars.

Keep it up, young man. America is watching.

[Alan Lindquist]

This is scary and extiting all at the same time. We all want it to work. He wants it to work. The right people are on the thread. It can work. I'm subscribed.

I can't relate to what he's attacked. It is ballsy. I'm sorting through problems with my SC after almost 10 years of ownership and familiarity plus dozens of years of tooling on other cars. Cut my teeth on a VW bug.

We're all looking forward to a success here. I can't add anything because great advice has already been given. Glad to see that the community is trying to help.

[RWebb]

sounds like detonation, which can destroy the engine...


this happens at rpm's over 3,000? or only at low rpm?

if yes to the higher rp, do NOT drive until you get the proper octane fuel in it (I assume the comparison is using the same measure for octane?)