Problem getting rear seat belt out

[widmn]

Tried to just undo the bolt but must have a nut or something on the other side. They wouldn't budge. Any tips as to how to get to them to change seat belts to non-retracting for child seat?

[trak ratt]

You don’t say what year car but the ones I’ve worked on ’65-’87 there is no nut, just the bolt. Since you say it “wouldn’t budge” I suggest you use some WD-40 & a bigger breaker bar. I’ve actually had to use an impact wrench because the bolt has a thinner head & usiing just a socket & bar can round them off.

[widmn]

It is an 87 911. Maybe I just didn't try hard enough. it seems frozen. I don't have an impact wrench but I do have wd40.

[scottb]

Let me tell you about my nightmare getting the bolt out on my 84.

The plastic sleeves had deteriorated over the years, so I thought "no problem, take the bolt out and replace them." The passenger side came out easily. The driver's side did not. I tried penetrating oil, WD 40, tapping it with a hammer....but nothing would loosen the bolt. In the process, I rounded the head on the bolt. Now what?

I took the car over to a friend who has a machine shop. He tried to get it out, but couldn't. Ultimately, we cut the carpet seam near the bolt, pulled the carpet back, protected the area, and he welded a large nut to the bolt head. Then, a long handled wrench was used to break the bolt loose. It did not come out easily. When we examined it, the bolt appeared to have some sort of adhesive on it. My friend theorized that it was the type of adhesive that bonded when the bolt got hot as it was tightened at the factory. Believe me, the bonding worked!

So, if you're going to try to get those bolts out, be very careful. Don't make the same mistake I did and simply lean on them. The result will be a rounded bolt head!

Anyone out there have any ideas as to how to break these bolts loose? Maybe a little heat on the bolt head first, and then an impact wrench?

[Jdub]

You MUST shave the head of the socket you are using such that there is no flared section. Grab a socket and look at it: you can see how most of them have a slight radius to permit quick location to (normal) bolts. In our case, the bolt is so thin at the head that you will need 100% contact: contact you can't get unless you shave the socket end.

Also, be sure to put rust penetrant on the bolt, then hit it with a nice solid hammer blow. Remember that, oftentimes, turning the bolt tighter can permit the flow of the penetrant to the threads. Once you get it going slightly, move the bolt clockwise and counter-clockwise, squirting in penetrant as you can without soiling the seats or carpet.

I have done this at the wrecking yards. Lots of patience and some treats for the yard dog or cat is the way to go!

John

[Doug E]

Yikes! These horror stories make me cringe.

Both of mine were very easy to take out.

[fat tat]

I recently had the same problem when changing rear belts of my 1989 930. The bolts are thread-locked with adheasive at the factory in accordance with regulations. I eventually had to drill out one bolt, which wasn't as difficult as it sounds because the bolts are of relatively soft metal. The trick is to drill slowly, and pause often to pervent excess heat setting fire to the surrounding carpet. This was the last resort after trying a 6-sided socket, then a hammer and chisel.

Good luck!

tat

[scottb]

Jdub, how do you shave the socket? Thanks.

[Chuck Moreland]

Use a grinding wheel.

My high school shop teacher will cringe when I say this - use the flat side of the wheel.

The metal of the socket is actually very soft and will grind away surprisingly fast.

[widmn]

I got it out!!!!!! Thanks fellas!!!!!