In preparation for installing my new fuel lines I have drilled out the existing holes in the body. The front was easy because the tank and suspension is out of the car. Would have been even easier if the rear brake line was also removed,

David

The rear will be a little tougher as I need to remove the trans mount. I made this base that fits on my lift that will support the trans while I'm enlarging the holes.
The right angle tool and the unibit made it all possible.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1572215957.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1572215957.jpg

What is the diameter of the enlarged hole
 

I am about to use Len's lines to update my 74 to the later 84-85 style, with one of his pump mounts and a new galvanized, under coated tank.
I'd like to size it for a secure fit, but not make it overly difficult to install.
Work keeps delaying progress🙁

Hi Len,

I am wondering if you are still building these tunnel and engine bay fuel lines. I sent email to your Verizon email. If you are and didn't get my email, let me know.

Thanks so much!

Franny

:)

Have not received any message from Franny B from Colorado.

Please try again. I am happy to help you.

Len dot Cummings at Verizon dot net

Use the above address or pick my user name and email me.

Thank you.

:)

Hi Len,

Hopefully you got that email... I sent it through your avatar/ID. If not, let me know and we'll figure it out :)

Thanks,

Franny

Just my opinion but a couple of months ago I replaced the tunnel lines in my 86 Carrera with new factory lines and it was the most miserable, painful, dirtiest job I ever did. My body still aches to this day. The crimp connection where the rubber hose is clamped onto the metal ferrule is where the rubber hardens and shrinks and gets loose so fuel odors seep through, just as the fuel lines on the engine. I am glad now the strong gas odors that originate from there are now fixed but will probably regret it if in 10 years the Cohline hose that its made with deteriorates again and needs replacement. My recommendation is just to replace the short rubber hose sections on the lines (at the front above the steering rack) with good hose and fuel injection hose clamps such as the Normas. It will accomplish the same job with 100 times less pain and cost. One of the Porsche shops I work with here laughed and told me it's still a painful job up on the rack and in 40 years they only replaced the tunnel lines 10 times, and that's because it got damaged because someone drilled through it trying to install a seat, or it was a full stripped chassis restoration. They felt those lines were never meant to be replaced, and always just replaced the rubber hose section and used fuel injection hose clamps and have never had a failure. And they have a Cohline hose crimper and all the fittings that they use to build a lot of custom lines for their jobs as needed and that other shops around borrow. So that's what I will be doing on my 84 when time permits.


For hose I used Gates Barricade which is a J30R14 spec FI hose where I can, including the EVAP system, which has very low vapor permeability, and my engine fuel lines are custom stainless braided PTFE lines with a black plastic covering, which is impervious to all fuel types including ethanol, which I expect to never deteriorate or gas off ever.

I’ve embarked on the same job- replacing every line on my 930. First job was to empty the fuel tank. After considering running the fuel pump to pump it out, I decided on siphoning it out the fuel sender hole.
Good thing too, because my sender had come apart! I found the aluminum sleeve and the nut that holds it to the sender rigging on the bottom of the tank. I had to fish them out and reinstall it. But was a little janky so JB welded it on too.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588846214.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588846214.jpg

Got both tunnel lines pulled through. Helper is a must. Transmission out was a huge plus because I could see the issue with the second line getting jammed up between the first line, the clutch cable tube, the throttle linkage, and the floor pan and twist/lever/curse at it until it got through.
Glad I did the job for sure. The rubber lines crimped to these poly lines is hard as a rock and cracking. I would not have done as some have suggested and try to save the poly and somehow attach something to them up in situ. Much cleaner approach this way.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588897720.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1588897720.jpg

Completed the job this AM. The turbo cars have two fuel pumps, so it may be a little different than the regular cars, but the tunnel job was the worst of it.
Len does a very nice job. Every line was spot-on and all the copper baskets were included- no runs to the auto parts store were necessary.
I wish I could pressurize the system and check for leaks before reinstalling the engine and trans, but I lack a few adapters and hoses to do so. I’ll be able to check it before I fire up the engine.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1589054642.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1589054642.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1589054642.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1589054642.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1589054642.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1589054642.jpg

These lines served honorably for 34 years. The new ones have the watch now.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1589054642.jpg

I just finished this job on my 930 today
I used OEM Porsche lines ....they don't include any rubber at all now and are nylon/ plastic whatever it is all the way.
I wished I hadn't wasted a day of my life removing anything of the interior as I didn't need to do any guiding from inside the car!
I cut off both pipes before the rubber hoses where the lines protrude at the front of the tunnel. I then fed strimmer cord up from the back and into the rear connections of the new pipes tying a knot at the front connections of the new tubes.
I then taped the joints best as possible with electrical tape.
First one went in easily in a couple of minutes. Second one had to have three attempts and retained twice before success.
I only retrieved the rear two rubber ferrules as they were easy to find under the gear selector cover,the fronts I could not retrieve as they obviously ended up somewhere under the gear stick where the tunnel sleeve begins and would have got pulled off there and stayed there......only a couple of pounds each so ordered two new....rear two were perfect and reused. I did the job alone.....although I do have a two post lift, I had engine and box in ......obviously removed front gearbox support.
So before you waste a day of this precious life I suggest you try it first......Still a bit of a ba**ard job however ha ha
Regards
Graham

1976 912E fuel line replacement
 

Getting ready to do this job including, new tank and fuel pump. Definitely going to get my parts from Len. He let me know it would take a month or so, but worth the wait!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1695482192.jpg

Thanks for posting this. I used your idea to pump my tank out into my girl friend's car. I ran the pump until the fuel sputtered out of the end of the hose.

One little addition - I connected a ground wire between the two cars. It only took a couple of minutes. On airplanes, we always ground the pump to the plane. On cars at gas stations, we don't. I think it's because the metal nozzle forms a ground connection from the car to the pump.

:)

You need that "Helper".

It's (3) times the effort without that helper.

Len

:)

Hi Len,
I just sent you an email through your profile here. Please let me know if you didn't receive it. I emailed you in early December, but I'm not sure if it wound up in a junk or spam folder.

Thanks,
Lucas

Fuel Line Request via Email
 

This is a super helpful post! *favorited*
____
Hey Len,

I sent you two emails from my Aol (shhh i know:cool:) and my GMail email address.

Please let me know if you did not receive it.

Nick Arbour