Delete your footwell blowers

[r-mm]

If you have noisy and or seized footwell blowers in your Carrera, or even if you just want to save 2 lbs I would strongly encourage you to ditch them. With a working engine bay fan and nice clean non rusted flapper boxes, non torn ductwork, I fail to see how anyone could complain about the quantity and quality (ie quick fire-up) of the heat on these cars.

I laser cut a little block off plate to cover up the hole left by the little blower motor. I really like not hearing those irritating motors when I'm purring down the highway.

[wwest]

The footwell blowers aren't so much of an aid to help heat the cabin as they are to quickly remove and/or prevent windshield condensation, misting.

[ganun]

I ditched the FWB a long time ago, one of the first things I did.
But then I am 6'3 and wear size 13 shoes, it was a good reason to put headers afterwards.
In Miami I don't need heating.
BTW, you can then have a trim shop makeup some retro map pockets where the fwb use to be.

[3literpwr]

I'm planning to drive my car year round with the highlight of the winter being ice crossing on some frozen Michigan lakes... That said, my blowers make all kinds of funny noises... Does your plate just block off the whole top?

[Jp-oh]

Originally Posted by 3literpwr

I'm planning to drive my car year round with the highlight of the winter being ice crossing on some frozen Michigan lakes... That said, my blowers make all kinds of funny noises... Does your plate just block off the whole top?

I drove mine in the cold-assed alberta winter last year and even on a frozen lake and I can say that when it was well bellow freezing I used the front heaters. When it was bonkers cold I used them on three. Mine make a funny noise for a second or two then stop. I took them out and cleaned them and the sqeak at initial start stayed but it goes away quickly.

[r-mm]

Maybe its hard to tell but the blockoff plates are pictured above, they're just brand new acrylic so they're nearly invisible. They blank off the area vacated by the blower motor. I just used some high quality duct tape to hold them on since the spring clips no longer have anything to "grab"

I drove the car for a little while with the entire box removed and was shocked at the volume of air available even at idle. If anything i'd be willing to bet that the squirrel cages are restricting airflow at times. Since most of the time I want a nice steady slow stream of warm air, not a blast, my solution is working well. Throughout last years painful NE winter I never once rotated the dial on my (manual) heat console past zero.

[wwest]

Originally Posted by r-mm

Maybe its hard to tell but the blockoff plates are pictured above, they're just brand new acrylic so they're nearly invisible. They blank off the area vacated by the blower motor. I just used some high quality duct tape to hold them on since the spring clips no longer have anything to "grab"

I drove the car for a little while with the entire box removed and was shocked at the volume of air available even at idle.

I am of the belief, possibly mistakenly so, that the footwell blower only "boost" the windshield defrost/defog/demist airflow, and/or the dash side vent airflow. Even this latter is likely more important at keeping the side windows clear of condensation rather than any significant level of cabin heating.

The main source of cabin heating airflow is not affected one way or another by the footwell blowers.

If anything i'd be willing to bet that the squirrel cages are restricting airflow at times.

Well, yes. If you need, or should be using, demist or defog functionality and the blowers are not engaged they will provide some "blockage" of the warming airflow that might otherwise prevent or abate windshield or window condensation.

Since most of the time I want a nice steady slow stream of warm air, not a blast, my solution is working well. Throughout last years painful NE winter I never once rotated the dial on my (manual) heat console past zero.

"..not a blast..." Then you need to do as I did and eliminate the engine blower/fan from the cabin heating "equation".

You have a manual heating system with a rotatable dial to control the heating level?

Please explain.

[r-mm]

Yup manual. I find the engine fan is excellent - it is silent from the cabin and the heat is very precisely (infinitely) modulatable with the airplane levers.

[martyk]

My fans make a little noise after they have been run a while. I got by with the engine fan forced air for many years in both a 356C and numerous volkswagens, although several buses never really approached toasty. My previous SC was fine without these fans. Most of the time, I just don't use them and all is quiet.

[wwest]

Originally Posted by r-mm

Yup manual. I find the engine fan is excellent - it is silent from the cabin and the heat is very precisely (infinitely) modulatable with the airplane levers.

"..precisely...."

Except with the variation in HOT airflow in stop and go traffic, engine RPM all over the map.

Set the heat to a comfortable level, 3100 RPM, ~70 MPH, fine. Now come to a full start/start and you wish the heat could be more CONSTANTLY moderated.

Was asking about your dial control of a manual heating system.....

[wwest]

Removing the footwell blowers for DIY "service" is a simple, straight forward task.

Lube the sleeve bearings, soak the surrounding cotton wading with oil, inspect the brushes and commutator condition/wear, and make sure the thrust spacer doesn't allow the blower wheel to touch on either end.

And don't forget to thoroughly clean the blower wheel and housing.

[86 911 Targa]

Unfortunately, when I last checked, our sponsor does not, and is not interested in,
providing the motors only, but the entire assy.

There are other replacement motors which require installation modifications.

[r-mm]

I'm just posting my experience. I live in CT and the climate is all over the map as is the traffic. With the heat set at a moderate level I don't have a problem with the heat being indexed to RPM.

I'm sure this solution is less than ideal for someone in Alberta or someone who commutes daily in an urban setting. But then, there is a lot about a 27 year old car that is...

[sugarwood]

Deleting your footwell blowers for weight saving is one thing, but they definitely make a difference. When my blowers were stuck, the hot air would trickle out of the under the dash vent hole (powered soley by the engine mounted blower), and nothing would even reach the windshield vent. That may be adequate for your needs. But, since I've had them both unstuck, air now blasts out of the vents like a hairdryer on MAX. Night and day. Yea, sometimes there's noise, but it generally goes away quickly.

If anyone in interested in fixing their blowers for $0 in 2 hours, here is my write up
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/835822-round-heater-dial-should-create-blast-air-heater-blowers-if-not-read.html

[r-mm]

The point I was making is that the blowers when stuck are a HUGE obstruction to airflow, as in close to a 100% obstruction. I was kidding about the weight savings. To be honest my motivations are eliminating any threat of fire (even with a fuse) and getting rid of a very annoying buzzy sound from the motors that really does get on my nerves. I drove for half a year with the P/S motor removed and D/S motor installed and at any given RPM the amount of air coming out of the vents was identical if the center switch was on 0 or 1. Above those setting, yes I absolutely concede that they add some airflow. And intolerable noise. However I never once used those settings, and anyone who was in New England last winter knows what I'm talking about...

[wwest]

Originally Posted by r-mm

The point I was making is that the blowers when stuck are a HUGE obstruction to airflow, as in close to a 100% obstruction.

"..100% ostruction'' <50%, and IMO that is of no matter whatsoever provided you have no need for defrost/defog/demist airflow to the windshield and/or side windows. You will have more than adequate, unobstructed, HEATING airflow from the below the dash airflow openings. Speaking of which IMO it does help to remove the airflow guide duct covers from those....

On the flip side if you should need defrost/defog/demist airflow those blowers are worth their weight in gold.

I was kidding about the weight savings. To be honest my motivations are eliminating any threat of fire (even with a fuse) and getting rid of a very annoying buzzy sound from the motors that really does get on my nerves.

Less than an hour of simple DIY time and you might well have provided yourself a lifesaving service.

I drove for half a year with the P/S motor removed and D/S motor installed and at any given RPM the amount of air coming out of the vents was identical if the center switch was on 0 or 1.

Again, the center switch has almost NO affect on the level of cabin heating airflow.

Above those setting, yes I absolutely concede that they add some airflow.

It is my understanding that the lower speed settings are there mostly to prevent blower wheel airflow obstruction plus "promote" enough airflow to keep the blower wheel from warping due to heat..

And intolerable noise. DIY However I never once used those settings, and anyone who was in New England last winter knows what I'm talking about...

Windshield condensation, and the need for abatement, is not unique to NE.

[douglas bray]

You guys would freak if you saw my set up.

Went from perfectly functioning auto heat to manual pulls, foot well blower delete, fresh air box delete, engine blower delete....passenger side pull dumps hot air on passenger's feet, driver side pull ducted to windshield, glassed over the fresh air intake screen. Yes, backdated the flapper boxes while I was in there. Used 3" CATT ducting from the local aircraft supply house.

[r-mm]

isn't windshield condensation removed with cold air in the winter? aka why modern cars are hardwired to turn the a/c on when you turn the knob to "windshield defrost"?

all bombast aside I'm trying to give everyone here a data point. I'm a dude who drives a car in "real weather" and my wife and I are comfortable and can see out the windshield year round. And now there's no buzzing. And my car is faster.

Do with it what you will.

God bless.

[wwest]

Originally Posted by r-mm

isn't windshield condensation removed with cold air in the winter? aka why modern cars are hardwired to turn the a/c on when you turn the knob to "windshield defrost"?

all bombast aside I'm trying to give everyone here a data point. I'm a dude who drives a car in "real weather" and my wife and I are comfortable and can see out the windshield year round. And now there's no buzzing. And my car is faster.

Do with it what you will.

God bless.

Yes, regrettably most modern cars exhibit pure unadulterated IDIOCY when it comes to defogging/demisting, or even prevention of same during predominantly cold or even cool climates.

"...removed with cold air in the winter.."

Not so much "cold" air, but COLD and DRY air. In moderately cool climates, say 45-65dF, the ability of the A/C evaporator operating at ~33dF to DRY, dehumidify, the system airflow can be substantial. Below 45dF the ability of an evaporator operating at 33dF to drive the incoming FRESH outside airflow declines precipitously as the OAT goes lower and lower.

So while the ability of the A/C to demist your windshield, and/or prevent mist formation, at these lower temperature ranges will be UNKNOWN to you at any given moment, HEAT will ALWAYS serve to defog a windshield and keep it defogged.

PS: Since your A/C will become completely non-functional with the OAT below 33dF, most system disable the compressor entirely below 32dF. Even so, many modern climate control systems, mostly NipponDenso or Denso US designs, still rely on system airflow for windshield defogging.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by r-mm

The point I was making is that the blowers when stuck are a HUGE obstruction to airflow, as in close to a 100% obstruction. I was kidding about the weight savings. To be honest my motivations are eliminating any threat of fire (even with a fuse) and getting rid of a very annoying buzzy sound from the motors that really does get on my nerves. I drove for half a year with the P/S motor removed and D/S motor installed and at any given RPM the amount of air coming out of the vents was identical if the center switch was on 0 or 1. Above those setting, yes I absolutely concede that they add some airflow. And intolerable noise. However I never once used those settings, and anyone who was in New England last winter knows what I'm talking about...

I read here that 0 and 1 are identical settings. It used to be that 0 was totally off, and 1 was low. At some point, Porsche decided to activite the blowers on low if the heat was on. So, 0 and 1 are now both low. 2 is medium. 3 is high.

If your blowers were buzzing on 0/1, meaning anytime you had your heater level pulled up, I can see how that would drive you nuts.