Euro H4 headlights

[virob]

I'm looking to change my sugar scoop headlights to Euro H4. Pelican parts list 3 option. Other than price, is there any real difference between these ( 1984 911). I plan on adding painted rings so Chrome vs black doesn't matter. I see some crazy prices on eBay or elsewhere. I not clear why there is such a range in price.

Part #: 911-631-112-00-OEM. $329
Part #: 911-631-113-02-M100. $695
Part #: 911-631-113-02 $195

Thanks

[APachon71RN]

I too am curious about this as well.

~Andy

[Drisump]

I can't tell you for sure but the cheapest H4 is probably the "off the rack" flat type. Meaning the light intensity will not be different (from the more expensive alternative) but they would likely need the "sugar scoop" ring like the original. The most expensive option is likely the raked back Euro light we associate with the 911. I'm not sure what the middle option would be. I have the Euro raked version...good light compared to the North American OEM offering. If you do upgrade to halogens, install a relay from our host. Cheers

[Arne2]

I believe you will find that only the M100 number is currently available. The others are superseded.

[virob]

Originally Posted by Drisump

I can't tell you for sure but the cheapest H4 is probably the "off the rack" flat type. Meaning the light intensity will not be different (from the more expensive alternative) but they would likely need the "sugar scoop" ring like the original. The most expensive option is likely the raked back Euro light we associate with the 911. I'm not sure what the middle option would be. I have the Euro raked version...good light compared to the North American OEM offering. If you do upgrade to halogens, install a relay from our host. Cheers

Drisump,

All 3 listed above are the "racked back Euro light" style. That is why am asking.

[virob]

Originally Posted by Arne2

I believe you will find that only the M100 number is currently available. The others are superseded.

When I put the 911-631 -113-02 in my cart, I getting shipping in 1 week.
For the 911-631-112-00-OEM, shipping is quoted as 2-3 days.
Maybe I should call to confirm.
So do you think they are all the same?

[Arne2]

Ahhh! The 112 part number is for right-hand drive - UK, Australia, etc. You don't want that one, you need the 113 part number for left-hand drive cars.

[Coastr]

I am seeing 329 per side for pricing. Does that seem about right for the entire assembly? What are used/eBay asking prices?

[fintstone]

The new ones are not as good for a restoration/concours because they are not made in Germany and the lettering on the glass is slightly different.Folks selling the older ones can demand a premium.

[Jack Stands]

Seems that the European H4s are over $1000/pair over on eBay these days. Not sure what has caused the sudden price jump, but I assume it's the old supply/demand issue. Also, the last year of 911 that these would fit are now nearly 25 years old, so I'm sure they're not being produced in large numbers anymore. When current stocks get low, prices seem to rise.

[Tidybuoy]

I bought my Euro H-4's on eBay. They were about $250 each and were Bosch. However, they are the current Bosch made in the Chec Republic. I really cannot see anything inferior with these lights and the quality seems fine.

Compared to sugar scoop H4's. the lighting output is about the same but I do like the Euro style better because at night the side of the glass rim is lit up (would be covered up with sugar scoops) and I also like the City Light feature. If your car did not originally have city lights, then you need to tap into your side marker lighting for these to work.

Lastly, the mounting system for the Euro lights is different and only has one screw. This includes a screw screwing into a bigger screw. I think you need to buy these screws separately and they have them at Pelican. You definitely want to use these. I originally defeated this system and one of my lights popped out when hitting a pot hole - that was $250 down the drain.

Don't forget to add a relay to your lighting system to get the full lighting benefit and reduce strain on your electrical system.

[fintstone]

Install instructions: Pelican Technical Article: Installing H4 Headlamps

[Drisump]

Originally Posted by virob

Drisump,

All 3 listed above are the "racked back Euro light" style. That is why am asking.

My apologies....I bought mine when there was only the German made available. I'm pretty sure I paid at least $500 for a pair six years ago. At the time, the flat Bosch's were available at many retailers for somewhere around $100.

[Jmorski]

I recently bought a Euro Bosch H4 on Ebay also, the ones made in Czech. Looks like the same quality as the original one I was replacing except for the absense of the Bosch script at the bottom of the lens.

[540964]

I switched to H4's from the standard H5's on my 964 years ago and installed relays, it made a huge difference in the amount of light, plus they look a lot better on the car. I'm using the standard bulbs (didn't find the need to use higher wattage). I also wired the city lights, looks nice I think.
There is some really good information here Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply on adding relays and why you should do it.
(No affiliation)

[Canada Kev]

The Automtive Lighting (AL brand on lens, and made in Czech Republic) are the same as Bosch Euro H4s. Well, except for the AL stamp. However, the resto crowd wants the Bosch marked units for originality. Other than the label moulded into the glass, the lens is the same as the Bosch marked ones.

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by Drisump

If you do upgrade to halogens, install a relay from our host.

I agree wholeheartedly. Even if your lights are NOT upgraded, I would still recommend a relay to avoid headlight and turn signal switch failure and to increase light output due to the resistance/current loss in the factory setup.

[Eli W]

You can upgrade without the relay as long as you the standard watt bulbs, if you want to use the higher watt bulbs you have to add the relays.

The light output without the relays and the standard 60/55 watt bulbs is a 100% times better than the H5s. The H5s were down right dangerous, like trying to drive using flashlights with the batteries almost dead.

All that being said, putting in the relays is not hard but it is not absolutely necessary unless you intend to use higher wattage bulbs.

Putting on the H4 was tricking for me, and actually a two man job. Starting the one screw that pulls the light down over the lip was a *****, I stripped a screw and had to order new ones. It was a dance between starting the screw and getting the light over the little metal lip. The new rubber seals also didn't make the job any easier.

[Arne2]

Originally Posted by Eli W

You can upgrade without the relay as long as you the standard watt bulbs...

True, you can. But there are benefits to the relays even with stock wattage bulbs. More stable output, and longer life for the turn signal switch.

[Neilnaz]

Installing relays is likely to increase the brightness of the headlights as the relay kit ensures that the battery output ~13.8v is applied much closer to the bulbs rather than passing all the way through the switchgear with the consequent minor voltage drops along the way. So there is a dual benefit - saving the life of the switchgear and increasing the intensity of the light output....

Cheers, Neil