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With your help, hope I can reciprocate in the future.
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Thought I had it, engine cranks when I connect terminals #30 and #50 on the wiring harness, so it would appear to follow when the ignition switch is turned to the start position #30 and #50 would make a connection. However when I connect my ohmeter to terminals #30 and #50 on the back of the switch (on the bench) with the key turned to the start position I do not get a closed circuit. I am probably in the middle of the forest and cannot find any trees? |
Speaking of nearby trees ... probing the male pins (red-to-yellow wires) of the circular black connector will help confirm (continuity) where you are --
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Ignition effecting radio signal booster
Thanks for posting this article.
I seem to have an issue with my ignition effecting radio signal booster. Radio reception is fine when turning the ignition key between position 0 and 1, when it clicks into position 1 or 2 the signal drops like the signal booster looses power or is no longer grounded, the booster is being powered by the radio. Any ideas what is causing this? |
Found this finally and have a question. Why are there three connections with #30? Is it because they are all directly connected to the battery? Also, on the upper left #30 it is positioned between what appear to be two wired plugs but the description is "THE other red wire..." Are there actually two live wires from the battery there? The "X" also appears to apply to two plugs/wires? #15 appears to cover two plugs but one looks unused.
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Where is the ignition getting power from? |
Terminal(s) 30 are fed from the battery.
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Where and what does the grey and blue/purple wires plug into and power? I added just replaces these with new front restoration design and im trying to find a home for them. Now that the fuse panel is aligned (thanks to your diagram) moving up to the headlight switch, ignition switch to figure out why im not getting power to my turn signals and flasher. |
Semi related, years ago, I had an issue with my ignition switch, and got a workaround for the time being as the job looked like srs bxns, and...then I had an (unrelated ) engine fire. Who needs an ignition switch when the engine compartment is see through? ;)
So, the engine is on it's way in and barring unforeseen issues (There are alllways unforeseen issues, ha) the ignition switch is still on the list. I seem to recall you have to unscrew the large black beveled ring? and maybe drill something?... Mine is a German import '73E. Is there a thread or maybe a vid or tutorial someplace that I've missed? or maybe it's easy and I'm just being obtuse! |
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Thank you Rex |
Should be terminal 30. Permanent power to light switch.
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I have this pic that I borrowed from here and saved for future reference. May be that's what you are looking for.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1704281224.jpg |
This is helpful. Thank you
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Is RT “Red”
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Yes. "Rot" in German. If the others confuse you, try one of the online translators to check what you think it means.
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The thing I learned in redesigning the electrical power distribution scheme in my hacked up backdate is that most of the electrical current for the car's systems is running through that ignition switch. Over the years, Porsche just ran with an older electrical distribution scheme and kept adding circuits/loads to it. With 35+ year old wiring and switch..... I got a bit nervous.
I found it fairly simple to add an electrical contactor and some relays to remove the all the power from going through the ignition switch and make shorter runs and I rest easy now. |
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There was another picture here on the form that could be helpful to this thread. It was a hand written color code wire placement. I think it was for the head light switch. |
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#75 is either a single or snapped off. Was there a variation of this headlight switch for a 1976S? |
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