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87 911 wont start, low voltage supply to ECM
Hello All...I've been fighting with my 87 and getting her to start up...I finally learned how to use my multimeter and was going thru the diagnosing process for the ECM and ran across low voltage supply to the ECM...it's pins 18 and 35 which should show 12 volts, but I'm only getting 2.7 volts...I tested the battery and it is at 12.4 volts...what do I do now? all the other connectors show the correct resistance and continuity. Apparently the ECM was repaired by Specialty ECM repair shop by the previous owner in 2019 and they talked me thru the testing of the ECM.
I'm somewhat glad that I know what the problem is, but now what? thanks! Update! Oops...didn't read the instructions fully...I needed to have the ignition on and now there are 12.4 volts going thru the ECU, now I still don't know why she won't start... Last edited by prairiedawgshoo; 11-29-2023 at 09:23 AM.. Reason: more info |
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You need to follow regular no-start troubleshooting.
Check for spark Check for fuel Do a search…there are many no-start threads. It was running fine and just wouldn’t start one day? |
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Thanks…I’m going thru the trouble shoot list and no luck so far…I just shipped the ECM to be checked…I hope it something there…Diego at the ecu repair shop told me that since the ecu has been previously repaired, some part of the board might be bad, which he says is a common fault…thanks for the suggestions
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Thanks for the info…got the ecu back…there were some cracked solder joints, but it passed their testing…I had them fix it and it started once when I re installed it and nothing after that…I did follow their diagnostic checklist and it might be the top dead sensor when I tested the pins for resistance…has anyone had trouble with theirs? Does this sensor going bad cause intermittent starting issues? Thanks for everyone’s help!
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I'm sorry Dave...I think I mis-spoke...I tested the connectors on the car which determined the TDC sensor does not have any resistance, based on Specialized ECU repair shop's diagnostic checklist indicating the TDC sensor is bad. Do you have any experience with this sensor going bad? does it "come and go" causing an intermittent starting problem?
thanks for your time Roger |
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First, very simple test. Turn key to RUN but do not crank engine. With key in RUN does the idle control valve in the engine bay vibrate and hum? The ICV is right in front of the throttle body.
I repair these DMEs often and they all get road tested, not many repair shops can road test them.
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Thanks scarceller, I will plug everything back in tomorrow and try…I do know there is connectivity to the icv thru the wiring…I did replace the icv several months ago…I was assuming it still works…I do have a new dme installed
Thanks Dave….the previous owner got to pay the first time…unfortunately Specalized wouldn’t honor the warranty because of ownership change |
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thanks Dave...noted!
and the ICV does work...also when I was checking for resistance to the sensors from the harness that goes into the ECU I swapped the crankshaft speed sensor into the spot for the reference sensor and got zero for the resistance...any ideas on what that's trying to tell me? |
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thanks Dave...what does it mean when the no resistance is measured? the speed sensor points measure 1K, but the refernce TDC pin holes don't measure anything
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You have one bad sensor! Replace both.
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GOtcha...thanks Dave!...so when I swapped the connectors on top of the engine (I took out the suspected bad plug and put the "good" in the TDC plug, it read zero again...does that mean anything? Also, when I get the new sensors can I plug them in and test them at the ECU where they would show 1k ohms? thanks for your help!
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Thanks!
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