READ before removing alternator!
 

This past weekend I removed, installed new brushes, and lightly polished my fan and alternator and learned something I want to share in case some one makes the same mistake I did. DO NOT use a metal hammer of any kind to tap the outer ring of studs to get the alternator out of the housing. Even with a ton of penetrating oil and an old soft copper faced hammer that has been fine on all the metal I've ever used it on, I squashed the studs enough that I couldn't get the finned plastic wire shield back on, :( so I had to very carefully cut one thread off with a dremel cut off tool to get the nuts to thread back on. Next time I'm going to use a hard rubber hammer like one uses in gunsmithing. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429939301.jpg The naked outer studs are the ones I'm referencing.

Finishedhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1429939520.jpg

You don't need to hammer at all. Use the drop method with a couple pieces of wood and a cushion. You can carefully drop the fan housing on the blocks and the alternator will pop right out.

+1 Never, ever use a Hammer of any kind.

You guys should edit this tech article...Pelican Technical Article: 911 Alternator and Fan Replacement & Upgrade
I'm new on the forums and don't know how to go about that.
I don't know much about these cars, the article recommended "light taps with a hammer". I tried the drop method but it didn't work, too much corrosion, even after letting it sit with a bunch of penetrating oil. Just thought I'd post this for all the people like myself and save someone the trouble I went through. I think using a rubber gun smithing hammer would be the trick if I had to do it again, that's just my opinion.

Just slow down a little and do a ton of research before you start a specific job. Read articles, search the forum and my favorite tip is to research what it's going to cost if you break something or have to replace. These cars are getting old and though most parts are readily available there are a couple that are tough to find or are very expensive.

Thanks Ayles. You're right.

If you ever have to use a hammer on studs then put the nuts on the end of the studs. This will protect the threads from being damaged.

Juergen

Along with the nuts at the ends flush lite taps with a brass hammer or rubber mallet help instead of a regular hammer.

As one that also learned the hard way not to hammer on those studs, I appreciate the post to warn others.

Though I've never done this, I wonder if using some coupling nuts over the end of the studs wouldn't protect them better as they would engage more threads than a normal nut if the drop method doesn't work.

This is a really good point. You can never tell what seemingly cheap part costs a fortune to get. I had to replace the window seals on my Targa. The inside one was $8 but the outside one (the simpler on) was going for > $120! I eventually found one for $35 But that took hours of searching.

Drop method didn't work for me either, even after soaking for days with rostoff. So took my time and used some wood between the hammer and studs, using the wood across more than one stud. Came out eventually, really brings a smile when it does move.

Kevin


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READ before removing alternator!
 

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nasl tl bakye yuklerz

I used a copper hammer...still deformed I wasn't smacking it hard either. It was just really corroded.

Thanks for the responses everyone. I just wanted to post on here as I'm new to owning one of these cars and thought that other newbies might make the same mistake I did.

A piece of pine can be very helpful as a buffer in many way.