No - one or the other. Do the tri wire plug in. Not the three prongs. You want a pic of it in the female plug in port? Let me do that for you.

Removes all doubt. Back in a few.

Connect all three center ones together. Two flats (87's) and the vertical (30) with the wire. That's it.

Freq will run if all else ok. Betcha it does. Listen near engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1434666013.jpg

Gotcha bob thank you ill try it tonight when i get off.

TMI, Broseph. Your sex life is your business.:D

lol

Ok tried the jumper and .... nothing this was with key on the on position engine not running.

Key on, key off. No matter. The O2/lambda circuit is live all the time.

You sent juice directly to the freq valve. It did not energize.

Now you have to confirm the valve is dead or there is a circuit interruption.

This has nothing to do with the Lambda box (at this point). Meaning this does not confirm the box is or is not working.

Now you can sniff at that 12 pin. Harbor freight sells a pretty good multi meter in the low $20 range if you are not a tool fancy pants. Gonna need that.

Couldn't i just pull the wire connection at valve and test it with meter to see if im getting power?

Yes you can. It is one of those wire fastener jobbies like on top of the warm up regulator.

Kind of a pain to get that wire off but very do-able. You don't really have to see it. Just understand where the spring wire ends are and use the right tool to dislodge it.

It is the correct place to start.

Ok thanks for all the help much appreciated ill report back tomorrow

No power at fv conector

Cancel that ,

Ok so no power at fv with oxs relay installed.

POWER at fv with wire jumper installed in oxs relay port. But fv still will not kick on does this make any sense?

By the way, when was the last time it was working? Not trying to be silly, but that could be very helpful when trying to diagnose a problem such as this.

Let me think on that. What I don't fully understand is what happens with the other wire. It goes back to the Lambda box and I have a feeling it provides the ground for the f valve. I probably flashes the ground on and off for differences in fuel pressure.

Let me research.

For grins, see if you can take the other connector and establish ground with the engine case.

Both of the wires go through the 12 pin connector.

Terminal #2 (power) and Terminal #1 (back to Lambda Box).

The 12 pin has the little numbers cast into it.

It worked fine last week then twice it spit and spudderd so i shut it off.. restarted to no idle and backfiring

Why am i getting power to the fv with the jumper and not the relay but still will not turn on the fv?

Could it be the ecu lambda box?

The answer to your first question is that you jump the relay for a reason. Power does not go to the fv unless a couple of things happen. Key in on position AND you lift the air sensor allowing the switch on the back of the air meter unit to engage allowing the relay to work and send juice via one of the 87 terminals on the relay. Cheater wire bypasses that. Takes fused battery power and sends it to the fv. The loop must be completed though, just like the a light bulb needs power on one connector and a ground on the other.

2nd question. You have power on one side of the connector with the cheater wire in. Does the other side provide a ground - one lead to the other connector the other lead to the engine case with a resistance test (ohms)? Check this using the ohms function on the multi meter. If you don't know how to do this it is perfectly ok. I will tell you.

No ground - no fv run. Ground may be interrupted at the 12 pin connector or by the Lambda box being faulty OR the FV being bad and ground then is meaningless.

Ok i tryed checking ohms on the other side but not sure im doing it correctly also pulled 12 pin and took a pic someone else has been there and looks like broke it and put in a jumper see photo.
http://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/...psuvexmimo.jpghttp://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/...pstf1wl9yn.jpg

Oh, Man. Good job. This may or may not be an issue. However, when you find something like this it raises and eyebrow.

If you have a multi-meter, tell me what kind. If it is the "free" harbor freight kind, go there again and spring for the miraculously on sale again, #37772 multi meter. - $23.99 - it is well worth that amount.

It will pull you out of this.

If you have a rdecent multi meter, then advise and I will set you straight. This is now a pretty straight-forward exercise if you have the right info.

I have a junk craftsman meeterhttp://i1211.photobucket.com/albums/...psfopghtck.jpg