Replacing short oil line near distributor ?

[sugarwood]

This line is weepy, and I want to look into how to replace it.
I don't even know what it's called, or how to search for this.
Anyone know the part number / PET page? Bentley page?

It's pretty buried in there. What are the major steps in removal?
Do you need to remove the distributor, or fan, and/or fan hood?
I'm a bit afraid or removing the distributor, in fear of screwing up the timing (and calling a flatbed)

Thanks!

[GH85Carrera]

That is the line for the chain tensioner. There are two, one on each side. The only reason to ever replace them is if they are leaking or a "while you are in there" engine refurbish.

They are tricky to get them to NOT leak. They use a little copper gasket. It took me a couple of tries to get my new ones to not leak.

If you have a Carrera it is pretty easy. Just get the distributor lined up on TDC number one then pull the distributor and the fan and the other things in the way.

It is covered in the Bentley manual.

If You have a SC you will have to have a timing light.

[sugarwood]

Thanks! Yes, I have a 3.2
I would attempt this with engine in, as I have no plans for engine removal.

It sounds like I could make it worse by trying to replace them, incorrectly.
It is slightly wet, and I saw a little gunk, but it's minor, and mostly clean.

It's #8 in the diagram, right?


Does any hardware need to also be replaced, or just order the 2 pipes?
#8 is 93010734703
#14 is 93010734811

I see that #8 is connected to #9, which goes downwards.
#9 just needs to be disconnected from #8, but not removed at the bottom, right?

[sugarwood]

Looks like Pelican doesn't sell it.
I saw this at another site

93010734705
Cohline - Oil Hose/Line; To Left Camshaft Carrier/Housing
Also need 90010200302 ferrule and 90010400302 nut. 1 per car.

Do you think your leak was caused by not replacing those other 2 fasteners?

[boyt911sc]

Clean the engine and determine where the leaks are coming from. If the leak/s are originating from the fitting/s making them snug and tight might solve the problem. However, if the leak/s is coming from the fitting with the rubber hose time to replace. I don't replace parts unless tested and confirmed defective.

Tony

[sugarwood]

There are no plans to drop and then clean the engine. I'm not at that level yet.

There is oil on the actual rubber hose, not the fittings, so I think it's good to replace.
I looked at the other side, which is almost impossible to see, and it looks dry.

If I decide to do this, I will need to look up how to remove the distributor and fan.
That would be a nice project, assuming I don't screw something up.

[steely]

I would try Tony's suggestion first.
You mentioned the lines near the dizzy, but you are showing parts on the right, they are different.
If you do the dizzy side, you will not need to remove the fan.
These part numbers changed over the years, so verify or call Pelican.

You might want 930-107-347-14-M20, and you will have to verify that the form factor is the same because some new lines do not line up with the can tensioner line. It is insane.

[sugarwood]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Is this the left or right camshaft oil hose?
It's always from the driver's perspective, correct?
I am guessing this is the LEFT line?

(And the photo with the engine removed is RIGHT side?)

[tuchan]

That is not a real hard fix (depending on your skills) and the motor does not need to come out. Take your time, do it right and it will be all sorted no worries.

[steely]

Originally Posted by sugarwood

Is this the left or right camshaft oil hose?
It's always from the driver's perspective, correct?
I am guessing this is the LEFT line?

(And the photo with the engine removed is RIGHT side?)

SW - to your questions: Left, Yes, Yes, Yes.