How Do I Remove the Wires from the ICV Harness Connector?

[wrxnofx]

I have removed the Autothority AFM from my 87 and replaced it with a stock AFM. Part of the Autothority kit includes a harness that connects from the production AFM harness connector and goes to the Autothority AFM.

With the Autothority harness you have to tap into 5V somewhere, and the PO tapped into the ICV connector (red wire):


In pulling back the insulation I'm pleased to see that they didn't cut any wires and solder into anything. However, I can't figure out how to remove the red wire from the connector:


Can anyone provide me some detail on how to do this? Timmy2?

[gerakroo]

You will need a (small) needle and press it on top of the terminal at the front of the connector, each terminal has a small lock which prevents it from going out again. You need to press it down and pull on the red wire at the same time.

[wrxnofx]

Hmm, I'm trying that and it doesn't seem to be working.


I've tried pushing down on the other half of the metal connector, also.

To be sure I understand, the metal terminal, with wires crimped on, pulls out the back of the plastic connector, correct?

[yelcab1]

Take a needle nose pair of pliers, grab the wire at the back of the connector, shove it forward into the connector. At the same time, find a small flat or square pin, push it into the connector from the front side. Once you hear a small click, pull the wire out from the connector.

There is a special tool for this job.

[DRACO A5OG]

+1^

I got the connector release tool at HB or Radio Shack.

[scarceller]

A medium to large sewing needle or a paper clip works well for this.

Also, they tapped 12v from the ICV not 5v, and yes they typically tap the 12v from the ICV.

I'm just curious, why are you removing the Autothority MAF? By the way I do think putting back the stock AFM is the correct thing to do.

[wrxnofx]

Originally Posted by scarceller

A medium to large sewing needle or a paper clip works well for this.

Also, they tapped 12v from the ICV not 5v, and yes they typically tap the 12v from the ICV.

I'm just curious, why are you removing the Autothority MAF? By the way I do think putting back the stock AFM is the correct thing to do.

Thanks for the clarification, Sal! Also, thanks for the tip of a paper clip - stupid me never even considered it. Amazing.

I removed the Autothority MAF (and K&N cone "filter") because I am interested in reverting the car back to stock. Thanks to some Pelicans and the classifieds, I was able to get a decent airbox (thanks Shaun 84 Targa) and original AFM (thanks al lkosmal). Fortunately, the PO retained the stock chip which I put back in.

Some driving comparisons between stock and Autothority:
1. The stock AFM, airbox, and air cleaner are way quieter than the Autothority. There was more intake noise and "sucking" sound with the Autothority.

2. There is definitely a difference in power. The stock setup has less low end for sure. I can't see how there couldn't be when comparing the restrictive barn door of the stock AFM and the nice large venturi of the Autothority MAF.

3. The car just seems smoother with stock configuration. I can't really explain it. It seems to idle better.

[wrxnofx]

Using a large paper clip I got the terminal out of the connector.


Thanks for the information guys. As usual it was very helpful.

Looking back through my service records, the PO had this thing installed directly from Autothority in 1992. It came to them with a no start condition, and replacing the DME solved the problem.

Cost of the DME replacement and Autothority MAF was $1648.23 In 1992!

Fortunately, I even have the sticker from the fuel door

[scarceller]

If the same Hot Wire MAF has been in since 1992 that's a good result! The HOT wire devices tend to go out of spec over the years mostly from oil entering the intake. Not bad for a system that's over 20 years old now! Those MAFs alone were expensive back in the day $600 or more, today you can get them for about $150. We also have much better MAF devices today as well.

Not a bad choice to go back to stock. It also lets you baseline that motor back to stock specs to be sure everything is healthy.