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I work in the insurance industry, and here are a couple of tips to get a descent settlement should you ever need it:
1. Keep really good records for maintenance items as well as things added. Adjusters are impressed when you can show evidence of recent brakes, new shocks, new clutch, etc. 2. You can generally add to your policy for options and modifications that increase the cars value up to some maximum ( like $10k). This could be anything like a wing, new wheels, audio system. 3. If you maintain high liability limits on all your car policies, and maybe have an umbrella policy, your company will likely consider you more of a premium customer and their adjusters will have that information. In the event of a loss, there will likely be more leeway to get you a better settlement. Obviously, if you can qualify for an agreed-value policy that is the best thing for a valuable older car. But, even with standard auto policies, I have seen people receive well above book value for their cars because of their good records and persistence. |
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What if your odometer is broke?
MattR |
I'm waaay too OCD to drive a car without a working odometer.
THanks for rthe discussion, I feel better about the idea of using my car as a daily driver in the future. At least it's a possibility./ |
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I avg. 10K a year on m8 '83 SC...am retired but live in the country so often drive 40 miles one way for a cup of coffee at B&Noble. Love driving that SC. |
I am in Austin, and I drive mine pretty much daily. The biggest problem is heat soak in the summer - if you park in the sun, it is very tough for the AC to catch up even if it is working well (mine isn't). I will drive mine to the office (10 minute drive) where I can park in a covered garage, but won't take it if it will have to sit in the sun or in traffic. A cover helps - I have a greenhouse cover that works reasonably well if you must leave it parked outside - reduces the oven effect. When I need AC, comfort, or hauling capability, I drive my 328i wagon.
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If you have to ask...
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A/C can be upgraded. Many posts on that.
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They are very cheap and can cover you if you have a party and someone trips and falls then sues you or if you run into a situation where the limits you carry on some other policy are insufficient to cover the loss. (Homeowners, auto etc) It's nice to have that safety net and it's so cheap it's crazy not to have it. imho, but before I worked in this industry I'd never heard of such a thing for people. I thought it was a business thing. I don't know of anyone in the industry that doesn't have an Umbrella policy. |
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I say go for it! Make sure you get a good insurance company. There are sites that track how likely different insurers are willing to pay out claims. DO NOT go with the cheapest insurance. I like USAA. I have no connection to them at all, but it's a world of difference from being with the insurers who's goal it is to NOT pay out. |
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Fender benders are very spendy with these cars. |
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I drive my '74 and '77 every day unless it's snowing, I love it. Parking at the end of parking lots keeps most of the scratches and door dings away.
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I don't know how much of the following applies to a '75, BUT:
I would daily my stock-ish '86, for sure, and I actually plan to in the next year or two when I downsize "the fleet." The car runs well and has a great tractable engine for traffic and around town (much better than my M5 in that regard), and even returns decent MPGs when needed. For CO winters, the heat is obviously more than adequate. I have a crazy-upgraded Griffiths A/C (thanks to the PO) to make the summers bearable, and the system absolutely freezes me out on the hottest CO days (mid 90s). |
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For commercial insurance you generally have to go through an agent, but for personal lines I find that I can put all of my policies with one carrier, do it myself without the agent/broker and do it online. House, Umbrella, Auto's, Motorcycle etc. I like that I can pull up every type of insurance I have and make adjustments, add or delete a car etc. A footnote for Umbrella's. They generally require you to have some high limits on all of the "underlying" policies. For auto/home etc I had to increase those limits. The cost for an UMB is cheap though. Usually a few hundred bucks a year. |
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