Sal,
Did you mount the WB gauge housing to the A pillar or IP? If so, how?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1452199803.jpg

On my 914-six, I used an Integra A pillar adapter and fabricated a mount using the existing trim screw. However, the A pillar profile is different on a 911.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1452200132.jpg

Sherwood

Looks awsome !

Sherwood,

Nothing fancy, the gauge is in a pod and the pod has a tiny Velcro strip to the dash, that's it. I also saw them mounted to the windshield with suction cup pod.

I did not want to drill any holes and I like the location, it's in my face at all times.

Sal,
Thanks for the quick response. There's a 911 clamp-on pillar adapter on ebay and wondered how that works out. Velcro is good.

Sherwood

Hey guys, my CIS equiped car has a Halmeter narrow band AFR meter, do you know if I can just switch to the digital wideband AEM gauge and eliminate the Halmeter unit without any issues? I understand the wideband AEM gauge will use a new wideband O2 sensor, so can I just replace the old narrow band sensor with the new sensor?

Thanks!

I have a similar question with respect to my '87 Motronic car. Could I swap out the current narrow band sensor for the UEGO 4.9, hook the white wire to the Motronic box, but with the calibration set at 0-1v? Should the gauge still show good AFR #s? I'm trying to see if I can avoid drilling and welding another bung on my headers (I would have to do it on the passenger side bank). Sorry if this was already covered, but it wasn't clear for me. TIA.
Lyle.

My understanding from Sal's other posts is that you can totally unplug the narrowband sensor and the car will run like RoW car. Please feel free to correct me on that point though.

If I understood Sal's previous posts correctly, I can remove the old O2 sensor, install the new WbO2 sensor and connect/splice the white wire from the old narrow band sensor's connector to the white wire coming from the gauge, set the gauge to the correct setting with the switch on the back, and Bobs yer uncle?

What does the switch on the back do? What's the "correct" setting?

S

Changes the output voltage range for the white wire coming from the gauge.

Yep, you got it! Just put the switch in pos #4 and connect the white wire back to the signal wire that the old sensor had been on. In the 84-89 Carrera cars the O2 signal wire is found on Pin #24 of the DME connector. Or wire it back to the engine bay to the O2 harness that had been connected to the old factory O2 sensor.

Sal,
Just to confirm.
Rewiring the AEM white sensor wire to the factory O2 harness connection and changing the switch setting (position 4) on the back of the gauge provides the correct 0-1V signals for proper DME operation.

... and the gauge still displays accurate A/F ratios throughout the wide band range. Have I got that right?

I asked someone at AEM (or a 3rd party salesman) awhile back and they said "no".

Thanks
Sherwood

Sal,
A while back you said if the car didn't have a cat, it ran better without the O2 sensor plugged in. Did you mean leave the Narrowband O2 sensor in free air or would you recommend just not connecting the white wire at all?
-Tom

If you do not have a cat then run it in open-loop, meaning no signal being feed back to the DME at all. If the mixture has been properly set and you have everything in working order these cars run best in open-loop just like the Euro 'Rest of World' cars run.

You can just disconnect (unplug) the stock sensor but better yet I'd unplug it and remove it from the exhaust stream.
To be clear, do not connect the white wire at all and do not run a stock sensor if you do not have a Cat.

The docs are here
http://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-4110%20Digital%20Wideband%20UEGO%20Gauge.pdf

Near the end it shows what each position of the switch does. In pos #4 the gauge's white wire emulates a standard narrow band. I also believe the display stays in AFR setting. Only Pos #2 changes the display to Lambda instead of AFR but I'm not 100% on this as the doc is a bit ambiguous about lambda display. Best to have someone that has the gauge move the switch to pos 4 to be sure the display remains in AFR mode.

Thanks Sal, that's what I understood.

installing a AEM 30-4110 FUEL/AIR RATIO GUAGE
 

Sal,
If my car is an 87 and it has a catalytic converter BUT it has only 100 cells configuration.
The O2 SENSOR IS CONNECTED.
I am about to install the recommended AEM gauge, replacing the sensor with the one supplied by the kit.
1. Am I to connect the white wire to the OLD DME wire?
2. Do I switch the sensor setting to #4?
thanks

Not trying to hijack or change course here...

We have multiple cars and each has a bung installed for the WB sensor. I use an Innovate LM2 for the stuff. I like that I can plug it onto my carbed cars as well as the later lear cars. Does all kinds of data logging, etc. I picked up a cheap TPS and put it on a little bracket to measure TP on the old carby cars just for a data point. Kinda geeky but adds fun and info.

Just another device for you consideration if you own multiple cars.

LM-2 Wideband O2 Digital Air/fuel Ratio Meter

That's exactly what I did and it works fine. AFR is displayed. If you put a bullet crimp on connector on the white wire, it plugs into your DME connector.
Good luck,
Dave

installing a AEM 30-4110 FUEL/AIR RATIO GUAGE Sal,
 

Dave,
which wire (color) or? do you plug the WHITE wire coming from the AEM GAUGE?

Yes. The white wire runs from the gauge back to the O2 sensor connector in the engine compartment.
There may be a shorter route tapping into the DME, but that's not what I did.
Dave

installing a AEM 30-4110 FUEL/AIR RATIO GUAGE Sal,
 

Dave....I do not quite understand....let me ask again....in your original answer to me (#59) you say that i can put a bullet crimp on the white wire and connect it to the OLD DME CONNECTOR...
My question is : which wire in the DME CONNECTOR DO I PLUG THE WHITE WIRE COMING FROM THE AEM GAUGE? Can you identify it by colour or # ?
Thanks

The white wire needs to be connected to pin #24 at the DME
Or simply route it back to the engine bay and connect it to the original signal line that had the original O2 sensor on it. The wire should be green.

Sorry, I was unclear. This is what I did:
When I ran my cable from gauge to the engine compartment, I included an extension of the gauge's white wire. I put a bullet connector on that and ran it to the connector where the original O2 sensor signal wire previously was connected. This is located near the ignition coil. The old O2 sensor is removed, and the new WB sensor is put in its place. The WB sensor signal goes back to the gauge (along with the white wire, which is bringing the simulated NB signal back to the engine connector).
Good luck, and I hope this helps,
Dave

Thanks to both of you....I get it now...

a AEM 30-4110 FUEL/AIR RATIO GUAGE
 

My understanding is that I need to set my AEM 30-4110 to position #4 or as shown in the manual P4...
My question is : by rotating the dial in the back of the gauge, do I move clock wise four positions? how do you verify that you are in P4?

You can double check pos 4 by measuring voltage at the white wire. It should not be higher than 1vdc and if the gauge is reading 14.7AFR the white wire voltage should be about 0.5vdc

a AEM 30-4110 FUEL/AIR RATIO GUAGE
 

Thanks Sal, I understand that you might be using this particular gauge, but i would like to set it up first in P4 position and the manual does not specify that...DO I GO CLOCKWISE ALL THE WAY TO REACH IT OR? I am afraid that setting it in a different postion might damage the gauge once the power is on.

Here's a pic from the instruction booklet
 

I think it will help:[IMG]http://i592.photobucket.com/albums/t...psbz0ubzrr.jpg[/IMG]
Sorry it's upside down, but you get the drift.

a AEM 30-4110 FUEL/AIR RATIO GUAGE
 

thanks ...but do I turn the rotor clockwise as far as possible to get there?

Yes. You can also turn it back and forth to get a feel for the switch. Count the clicks if you want. Ultimately it looks like you will go fully clockwise.
Good luck,
Dave

a AEM 30-4110 FUEL/AIR RATIO GUAGE
 

Thanks Dave & Sal, I am almost there...just replacing the sensor and inserting to the old connector.
Hope it will all work...lots of bending and shoving, hard on the knees and hand muscles for a 72 years old porsche buff...

Good luck. I'm 67 and I hope I'll still be bending and reaching in 5 years.
Dave

I'm just wiring up my AEM 30-5130 gauge and it also has a brown wire labelled analog. In the instructions it says to wire the white and brown wires to a data logger. So now I'm confused. Should I be taking the white wire back to the old O2 sensor green as mentioned above (is that the Lambda + input)? If yes then what about the brown wire? The instructions say it must be used if the white is used. Ideally this brown would be connected to the Lambda - input if there is one or to a sensor ground if no - input or finally to a chassis ground if none of the other two exist. Who can help answer my concerns?

http://aemelectronics.com/files/instructions/30-5130%20Analog%20Wideband%20UEGO%20Gauge%20Gasoline %20AFR.pdf

Thanks, Mark.

Hi Mark,
You don't need to hook up either the white or the brown wires. The car will run open loop and be OK. You can watch the air fuel ratio on your new gauge. If you want to feed a simulated narrow band signal to your car's brain so it can try to adjust its mixture, just connect the white wire to the place where you disconnected your old O2 sensor. You can watch how it controls air and fuel. I have no experience with data logging, but I think the brown wire provides a ground for that purpose only.
Good luck,
Dave

Thanks for the help Dave, I've pulled two spares to the back for the white and brown and then tied them off. I guess when I get the new sensor installed I'll connect the white and see how it goes.

I've read that using these gauges without a data logger is kind of tough to get any real information. Sounds like it's hard to record/remember much while driving. I'll be working with Sal when the car is back on the road in preparation for his injector and DME upgrades. If there are some wiring points to adjust at that time I'll be fine - there's enough wire run.

I have to say, tearing apart the front suspension is more fun than running wires.

Mark.

Mark,

If you DO NOT have a cat converter then no need to feed anything back to the DME. Without the cat converter it's best to run the DME in Open-Loop mode just like the Euro engines.

Also, for initial data gathering you do NOT want the O2 closed-loop feedback trying to influence the mixture. If you review my data gathering sheet it specifically says you must gather AFR numbers without O2 feedback.

You also do not need recording ability to gather the basic AFR numbers, it can be done by just looking at the gauge quickly or having a passenger look at the gauge while you drive under the conditions for the test case.

Mark,

The AEM gauge you bought 30-5130 does not have the ability to simulate a Narrow Band Sensor. That particular gauge does have a white output but it is not configurable, it's output is 0-5vdc and is NOT able to simulate the 0-1vdc narrow band signal. This gauge also uses the older LSU 4.2 sensor not the LSU 4.9. It's a decent gauge but the other AEM 30-4110 is the more modern slightly better gauge.

The AEM 30-4110 has a programmable white wire output that CAN be set to mimic a narrow band 0-1vdc output. This gauge also uses the most modern LSU 4.9 sensor. It's simply the very latest technology gauge from AEM but the face is digital (not analog) I wish they made this same gauge in analog.

Bottom line: the AEM 30-5130 is a decent gauge but CAN NOT be wired to the DME, do not bother trying to wire it up as it will only make your DME think the motor is rich at all times and the DME will get confused and lean the mixture. Again, DO NOT tie that white wire to the original O2 harness! If you send a voltage above 0.7vdc back to the DME it will tell the DME motor is RICH!

I did not realize what AEM you bought, most folks use the other 30-4110 unit.

Well I'm glad we cleared that up Sal. Thanks for the info. There is so much info floating around on this work it's sometimes confusing (as anyone can sees from my questions). Thankfully this forum has knowledgeable people willing to share.

Yes I specifically did not want the digital gauge so this AEM 30-5130 was my selected option. I'm sure some other people have done the same for that reason. Hopefully everyone is clear now.

Thanks again for the help, Mark

Thanks, Sal. I did not see that his gauge does not provide 0-1V simulated NB signal.
Dave