Cincinnati Outlaw - This Escalated Quickly - Page 8

carwash · 10-24-2016, 05:58 PM

No. A little bit of flash is tolerable. Will wire wheel and wipe before primer.

carwash · 10-28-2016, 08:49 AM

This is a work of art, but $500 was hard to spend on it. I required a removable wheel due to cage, and really didn't want to scrimp on the item and wish I'd bought a better one. So I went with the Rothsport model. It's wonderful. Pics installed soon, here it is on the bench.

911SauCy · 911SauCy's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by carwash

Ditching the stock hinges and going with the R hinges... I think they are sexy, minimal, and very light. Picked these up from AASE... they quality is great. But man, when you spend $170 and the box is the size of a pack of fruit snacks... that sucks, lol. Can't wait to get them coated and installed.

(New) 911R Lightweight Engine Lid Hinge Set w/ Hardware - 1967 | Aase Sales Porsche Parts Center

For all the fab you're doing...you dropped $170 on those? Priced like that because they can be...

Elombard · 10-28-2016, 11:36 AM

Those hinges are cool. If they were $50 I would have a set. Can somebody make some for me :-0

carwash · 10-28-2016, 11:36 AM

Those parts would be a very tedious to make... they are tiny tiny parts... and my time to get them designed, then laser cut, then weld them up, source the hardware etc.... My time is worth more than I paid for them.

It is a lot of cash I know, but sometimes better to pay someone else to do the R and D.

75 911s · 75 911s's Garage

Those hinges are awesome. I've seen some fugly R hinges that look like they belong on a screen door.

carwash · 10-28-2016, 03:59 PM

I'm looking forward to putting them on the car!

Fleming · 10-29-2016, 11:26 AM

carwash,

Investigate that gas tank front support panel. (Those two panels enclosed bare metal from the factory and had rust on the inside before even leaving the assembly line) It looks like the reason they braized that patch was there wasn't enough steel to put in a weld.

Spend some time pressing a punch into any of the low spots to verify metal thickness and strength - the bottom panel in concert with the top panel forms a beam holding the front of the car together and is the structural attachment for the front suspension. Of all the places on the car where clean solid metal is important... that's the spot.

With that much rust repair look at all four corners of where the steering and front torsion bars mount. The rear pin bolts (that hold the steering to the body) and the surrounding sheet metal mounts at the back of the torsion bars are real rust prone areas.

carwash · 10-29-2016, 11:31 AM

Thanks! I will investigate!

kühn tune · 10-29-2016, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carwash

Continued...

I am about 90% certain that this 912 was my first car that I had from 1988 - 1991 or so. Those metal panels riveted to the floor would have been made from sheet metal from an old deep freezer and sealed to the floor with RTV. If I am on the right track I can go on.

carwash · 10-29-2016, 01:51 PM

Yes this sounds correct! What else can you tell me?

kühn tune · 10-29-2016, 02:29 PM

We bought the car a few miles from our house in Germantown, TN. Aside from a cassette player it was all stock, steel wheels, wood steering wheel, lap belts only, an optional 5-speed and the original 4 cylinder engine. The car was in a carport and the engine was in a closet. I think the engine had been out for a rebuild and it ran great. We installed the engine at the guy's house so we could flat tow it home.

It was badly rusted which is my 10% uncertainty. The rockers and heater channels were very porous so we did some patching and I think I recall using some spray foam. We had this black paint stuff (like POR) that came in a small, expensive bottle that we brushed on the remaining rust. I think I see some around the pedal box.

The repairs in the trunk weren't from collision damage but the torsion bar mounts were all rusted out. My dad bought replacement sheet metal then copied it for this car so we could use those pieces in another car. We didn't have a welder so he used acetylene/oxygen to braise them in.

The stock bumpers were very rusty (and had chunks of salt in them) so we painted them, and the rockers, black. The rest of the car wore the Kelly green pretty well when I drove it. The trunk latch was rusted out so it had hood pins that poked through the trunk like a race car. I think i see the holes where they were mounted in one of your pictures. The driver's door was badly damaged (by me) so I am guessing it was replaced. The back end was damaged twice when I backed into an S10 and another time when I was rear-ended at a light.

We bought it in the fall and had it ready to drive by my 16th birthday in January 1989. I drove it to school and to my job every day. I raced R/C cars a lot at the time so on the weekends I would often drive it to Nashville or Little Rock for races.

I loved driving the car, girls hated riding in it. It sounded like a Beetle to the untrained ear, it was cold in the winter, the windows were hard to roll up, the doors were hard to open, it smelled like burning oil and smoke came in through the heater vents at stop lights.

When it came time to sell, Dad fixed the door and sprayed the car red. A friend in Grenada, MS sold it off of his car lot for us, to whom I have no idea but I think it was a local. I can't quite recall but I think it had around 115,000 miles when we bought it and I would have put 35-40,000 on it.

From 15 feet away it was a rough looking car. I can't imagine why someone would choose it for a widebody conversion or add a sunroof for that matter. What you are doing looks great. Personally I would keep the wide fenders, duck tail and back date to long hood and '68 bumpers.

911SauCy · 911SauCy's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by carwash

Those parts would be a very tedious to make... they are tiny tiny parts... and my time to get them designed, then laser cut, then weld them up, source the hardware etc.... My time is worth more than I paid for them.

It is a lot of cash I know, but sometimes better to pay someone else to do the R and D.

I get it, but danngg

(Then again, I'm tainted as my brother is a tremendously talented welder and has all metal fab equipment at his fingertips, including lasers

Enjoy the journey.

ItzaMe · 11-22-2016, 01:58 PM

Any plans for the exterior body soon?

carwash · 11-22-2016, 02:23 PM

I hope to be in paint within a month or so.... we shall see.

RichardNew · RichardNew's Garage

Speaking of your R-style hinges. Be careful there is a right one and a left one.

btw - the ugliest ones I've seen are the original ones.

This is the real deal.

Here's the ultimate thread on all of this.

Richard Newton

carwash · 11-22-2016, 05:30 PM

Your link is no good....

carwash · 11-30-2016, 01:14 PM

Almost every bit of green is gone from the car now.... 95% finished on the engine bay now... This stuff looks so good shiny and clean, almost a shame to paint it. Still quite a bit of patchwork and finishing needed. You can see where the 4 cylinder mounts were hacked off with apparently a hatchet and plated over with rusty pepsi cans etc... lol.

Steve F · 11-30-2016, 01:16 PM

Well done Sir!

carwash · 12-21-2016, 02:03 PM

Here are some updates, this is copied over from my thread about the raised tunnel install, so sorry if i double up on some of you, I just wanted it all kept in one place as well....

Ok, so I ended up notching the tunnel all the way up to the factory parking brake cutout. it was the only way it was going to clear it.

Then mounted this work of art shifter to the raised tunnel. Damn it is sexy....

I mounted the shift rod to it, which can be a bit tricky. I had to do some slight modification to the rod holding bracket to make it fit in-between the shifter housing and the tunnel. Just a little grinding at the corners and it rolled right in. Then I set the shifter in the car and tested it to make sure the rod clears.... woot, good to go!