Not quite a heat backdate for 3.2 -- very easy

[livetopedal]

Originally Posted by redstack

Does your car have the autoheat? Mine does and I still can't figure out how to make it work. Will this mod affect the autoheat system?

My '89 does not have auto-heat. It's basically a base car with only factory tail and valence. I thinks this was unusual in 89.
So, just to be clear, if you have auto-heat, your outcome may be different.

[livetopedal]

Finally found some time to complete this. Remove the heater relay and gently pry it open.


Here's a look before the jumper.


And here it is with the jumper in place. As you can see my soldering skills could use some refining....


Reassemble and reinstall, turn the ignition, pull up on the heat levers and Voila!

[doublebuffle]

I am trying to do this with my 3.2.

Can someone please explain how one is supposed to modify the heater duct so that it clears the oil lines?

[SpyderMike]

With a hammer and/or pliers.

[Flojo]

Originally Posted by BFT3.2

I did the same heat back-date in my 3.2, ...

I'm a detail-person. this makes me fringe...

[livetopedal]

Originally Posted by doublebuffle

I am trying to do this with my 3.2.

Can someone please explain how one is supposed to modify the heater duct so that it clears the oil lines?

The duct sat right on top of the line in my car, no mods needed. There may be some variation in the manufacture of the duct. I think you could "massage" the duct with a ball-peen hammer .

[doublebuffle]

Originally Posted by livetopedal

The duct sat right on top of the line in my car, no mods needed. There may be some variation in the manufacture of the duct. I think you could "massage" the duct with a ball-peen hammer .

I could do some "massaging" but that duct outlet would have to end up about a 1/4" higher... and I don't think that technique will get me there.

I'm bringing it into work for a second opinion, but im thinking this may be a cut and weld situation in my case.

[LUFTKUL]

Unlikely that the duct is off. The problem is the height of the carrera tensioner oil lines, specifically at the "T" joint. I had an '88 and an '84 at my house recently and was able to compare. The '88 line would barely allow a quarter to slide between the line "T" and the case. The '84 I could stick my finger between the line "T" and the case and still move up and down. It's the way the oil line is run. You can either "persuade" the oil line down or modify the duct or a little of both.

[SpyderMike]

Originally Posted by doublebuffle

I could do some "massaging" but that duct outlet would have to end up about a 1/4" higher... and I don't think that technique will get me there.

I massaged both the duct and the oil lines. The duct ended up with a flat profile on the bottom.

[SpyderMike]

Originally Posted by Flojo

I'm a detail-person. this makes me fringe...

That bolt on the left looks like the receiver for the carbon fiber rod setup. The rod sits in the depression of the cap head.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Lake Guy

... Good write up Thom. I'm curious about how much heat still gets to the passenger compartment with the main blower removed...

L.G.

Not sure if it was answered. With a 3.2 you will get plenty of heat. I drive my Cab with the top down in single digit temperature with no problem.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by SpyderMike

That bolt on the left looks like the receiver for the carbon fiber rod setup. The rod sits in the depression of the cap head.

???

All the CAT I look at has the same bolt on either side and it's not a Hex head.

[douglas bray]

I switch out the autoheat in favor of manual pulls. Driver's side pull sends heat to the windscreen and the passenger side pull sends it to the passenger's feet. No blowers in the heat system at all other than the engine fan. Works fantastic.

[SpyderMike]

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC

???

All the CAT I look at has the same bolt on either side and it's not a Hex head.

My 1985 has motor mount bolts that are all hex head. Do you mean the socket cap head screw on the left?

To me it looks like part of a kit to remove the rear deck lid strut with a single carbon fiber rod:

Ult-Strut,TopDetail

I have such an item, but have yet to install it, and that is why it caught my eye.

[Flojo]

It's minor, I know..., I just like symmetry ;-)

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by SpyderMike

My 1985 has motor mount bolts that are all hex head. Do you mean the socket cap head screw on the left?

To me it looks like part of a kit to remove the rear deck lid strut with a single carbon fiber rod:

Ult-Strut,TopDetail

I have such an item, but have yet to install it, and that is why it caught my eye.

Yes, I would do like Flojo and put 4 socket cap head screw.

I'm using an older technology...

[Flojo]

sublime engine!

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Flojo

sublime engine!

Danke

[jm993rs]

Very good !!

Thanks for share !!!

[Canada Kev]

Originally Posted by Flojo

It's minor, I know..., I just like symmetry ;-)

I hear you; I'm the same.

My car has been off the road for a week while I'm trying to source an M5 speed/clip nut for the rear tail light housing mounting screws. One of mine come apart when I removed the lights to replace seals (kinda corroded after being in the fender well for the last thirty years...) and I can't bring myself to replace the screw and nut with an M6 that are readily available. It's not even visible after the lens goes back on. Little bit OCD I guess...