Porsche 911 Lightweight
 

Hello, I just signed this forum, but for long I've been following some posts. It turns out that it's my turn to create a new post since I'm restoring my Porsche from 1973 to a lightweight one in a small budget project. I need help from all of you since I don't have a lot of experience in this area...

Some photos of everything that was done until now.



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493292467.jpg

How it started

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493292467.jpg

Unmounted and cleaned everything

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493292467.jpg

Replaced rusty parts

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493292467.jpg

With the primary after sandblasting

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493292467.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493292467.jpg

And trying the new doors.


This is a slow going project with the final purpose of racing.
Trying to do now all fiberglass panels, see if all fits and then start buying parts to start mounting the car.

What do you think i should do next?

:)

Search my build. Your going down the same path. It may help you

Welcome to the Pelican community! Looks like a fun build. Be sure to check out our tech articles for any tech help you might need. If you have any forum/parts inquires please don't hesitate to let me know. Enjoy your time here and good luck with the build!

Porsche 911 (1965-1989) Technical Articles - Pelican Parts

Cool project! A long road ahead..

If you're using composite doors you should really have a full cage with 'Nascar' style door bars.

Now is the time to install said cage - before the paint goes on. You would need to back pedal a bit and grind down to bare metal for some welding, but that isn't a big deal.

The roll cage will be something like this on the doors (photo not mine)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493370716.JPG

Trying to fit all fenders, bumpers etc See if it all aligns and then will move the car to someone who knows how to weld to do the small works and do the cage. After that paint the car with a thin layer and start mounting everything.

Still don't know about parts I've to buy.

I'll use the original brakes
A Bilstein B6 circuit with torsion bars or change it with springs?
The original sway bars or aftermarket ones?
And much to go on...

What do you recommend?

I must say...that flat green primer looks great. I would love to see some satin olive paint go on here...

All your questions depend on what the goal is for the car. How will it be driven? Where? What kind of roads?

Now is a good time to install reinforcements for coilovers (with the engine out, before paint), even if you don't use them.

Well, the car will be white and the main purpose is to race with, mainly in asphalt rallies.

I already have a beautiful set of Fuchs with 225/50/R15 for the back and 205/50/R15 for the front.

Still don't know if I should use coilovers, torsion bars or both.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1493711688.jpg

I want it to look like this

From what I've read, the primary benefit of coilovers over torsion bars is the availability of stiffer springs and packaging concerns. Another one might be a greater selection of modern/adjustable dampers. They may also make ride height adjustment simpler. If you're not on a smooth racetrack, I think available torsion bars will be plenty stiff, and you can always have a set of stock Bilsteins revalved to match the springs if you don't need adjustability.

I would first be checking on the rally regulations for the class you want to run in. Some classes would require you to run standard suspension I would have thought?

I run my stock T-bars in the back AND coilovers. The majority of the weight is on the bars and ride height is set mostly with the bars.

The coilovers consist of three springs. Top is 150# Eibach that acts as a bumpstop/anti-roll. Middle is an 80# from D Falkner. Bottom is a 4# helper. The 80# spring is what gives my stock bars an effective rate of 29mm. They are squished down to within a half inch of fully compressed.

I used Juan at Bilstein Poway for all the valving and grooves

Just raised my spindles 26mm and added 1° of neg camber and a second steering arm. Sick!

They are a bit ambiguous, I can ride practically with anything I wan't. Just have to ensure security.
On the other hand I would like to run more "historically" possible.. But since I'm on a low budget.. I'll run with a matching numbers Porsche from 73. I believe that STs had fiberglass parts and other goodies

I've been doing some cleaning and painting work, so when the car return from the body shop everything is ready to install.

I've some doubts that you might help me:

- Should I change all bearings?
- Change trailing arms bushings? If yes, for what?
- Spring Plates Bushings? If yes, for what?
- Front control arm bushings? ..
- Camber plates bushings?..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494321196.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1494321196.jpg

Bad quality sorry..

Went to the bodyshop and anything was done... argh...

do you retrieve the torsion bar up front before paint?

re your question: at this point is best to change all bushings. depending on how you plan to use the car, you can choose from OEM rupbber, powerflex or polybronze (soft => hard => harder)

Didn't take apart front torsion bars, did a general clean and fresh paint.
Might go with powerflex because polybronze are way too expensive!!

About bearings, should I change?

You go that far and then stop right before the finishing line?

they gonna overspray them :confused:

yes, go ahead. best moment ever!

It's expensive because it's a Porsche but if you don't change something now, you'll regret it because now will be the best time to 1 do it right, 2 do it as cheaply as it can be done and 3 do it as a completely thought through system instead of it being piecemeal.

I really don't like poly - 98% chance they bind unless you put a lot of love into them at installation. On a budget maybe consider Delrin bushes in the A-arms and spring plates? Still gotta give them a little love at install to make sure they move freely, but nice for a mostly track car. A little harsh on a street car, and can squeak on occasion.

Drive97, when you say "poly", are you discussing Elephant Racing polybronze bushings?

From most of what I've read, they add no harshness compared to stock rubber. The down side is one-time cost and having to grease them every oil change.

I'm currently planning to use them when I do my suspension.

No, OP said they the ER were too expensive. I've never seen a bad review of the ER polybronze.

I meant the cheapie solid poly bits as the things that are hard to eliminate bind in.