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1988 911 Coupe Granite Green "Frogger" 1966 912R Coupe Stone Grey outlaw -"'Tilda" 1978 924 White with Cork (Streetcar vs. Porsche - streetcar won)"Poindexter" 1984 924s Nile Green Metallic with bone (totaled it in the snow in Cleveland, Ohio) 1983 911 White with Cherry Red...gave away (not enough time or money to keep it running) in 2001 |
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Then just tuck it under the dash behind the switch.
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1988 911 Coupe Granite Green "Frogger" 1966 912R Coupe Stone Grey outlaw -"'Tilda" 1978 924 White with Cork (Streetcar vs. Porsche - streetcar won)"Poindexter" 1984 924s Nile Green Metallic with bone (totaled it in the snow in Cleveland, Ohio) 1983 911 White with Cherry Red...gave away (not enough time or money to keep it running) in 2001 |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: atlanta
Posts: 1,982
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Clever!
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Electric Window repair
Worst project ever! Worse than redo of entire interior including headliner Worse than replacing front and rear wind screens and all seals on 66 all alone Difficulty 9/10 Blood letting 8/10 Time 6 hours not including removing and replacing door card Need: gorilla tape, t25 bit, metric Allen set, small hands, thick skin Here we go: It is suggested that you start the project with the glass half down- unfortunately mine was inoperative and I was unable to find a way to put the window down without a working setup Tested the wires directly using my battery as per another thread “76fj55” said “If it is a power suply issue and not the motor itself, and if you have a power source (12V), could be battery or whatever, you could try powering the motor directly at the passenger door switch location. When you remove the switch, there are two blue and black (i think based on my 84) wires. if you power one and ground the other it should power the motor directly.” This did not budge the window and motor not heard. I also switched the switches to make sure not a switch pb. With the door card off I followed Bentley instructions. What a joke - basically it says remove all the screws, and then remove the mechanism thru the hole. Yea, if only. First in order to remove the motor you have to take the actuator screws out - these were gold colored alen screws with washers. Around 6 of them. After that you can pull the motor down into view in the right foreword facing hole. There are 3 torx screws holding the motor in. I marked the mating holes on the actuator and motor with pink marker. After removing these 3 the motor can be pulled down and out the lower hole where you can see the electric connection. And disconnect. I am showing you this connector as it took a fair tug and wiggle to get it off. The motor then came out. I tested the motor with 12 v and it came to life. Yay!!!! Now for the (not ) fun part Getting the gizmo out was a nightmare. The piece that stabilizes the frame really hindered efforts to remove. After messing with it for over an hour I finally got it out OPPOSITE of how Bentley said to do it. It came out motor side first and then “legs “ second. I had taped the window closed THIS IS IMPORTANT Tested the motor on the now external piece and it worked fine. Decided to fix the pivot anyway so that less stress on the motor. The spring holder that I thought was off was not the one. It was the tether piece that came off. It had been poorly peened and so I reinserted and peened it on. Once I restored the spring tension( *danger* don’t lose an eye doing this- the spring is wickedly tight) - the peened piece looked unstable. So I rigged up a short flat head steel bolt. And 2 nuts with flanges. I placed the first flange down and the second flange up to creat a channel. Re tensioned the spring and tested for failure again. Worked fine. Replaced the apparatus in reverse order. Put it back motor side first (1 hour) and legs second. Threaded the wheels onto the window channel, and then tightened the motor screws first and actuator screws second. Having the motor holes marked to match was a huge help in orienting the items. Done. Tested and working well. Spent another 45 min replacing all the visqueen. We live in the tropics so proper waterproofing is critical. Ignore the manuals. The important thing is to direct the water back into the door. Just placing the plastic over the door skin does nothing. Last photos show how to place the membrane. Martini time ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Good job Queen- sucked to do, but I bet you feel like a master mechanic about now!
So motor is good, was it just jammed or was it a wiring issue?
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Rutager West 1977 911S Targa Chocolate Brown |
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I guess it was just jammed. The electric connections were all in continuity and fine.
I don’t feel like a master mechanic at all. I still don’t understand why it was so hard to get the mechanism in and out. Maybe it is better to remove the window frame first but that idea seemed to be frought with additional risk of breaking brittle plastic things. I am glad it is done and will confess I am not going to open and close the windows more than necessary in the future. Last edited by echecsqueen; 02-21-2023 at 09:12 AM.. |
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Motor City area
Posts: 617
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Nice job over there, queen. Those window regs are a real (eh-hem) difficult thing to work with. I had the (dis)pleasure of taking all that stuff out of the doors to replace all of the weather stripping, and seals and such. My hands were spent after that; Im sure yours were as well. Good to see it all went back together as planned.
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'The forever project car - 1979 911SC targa - getting it running right was a task, read about it here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/722362-dads-911sc-i-am-finishing-rebuild-long.html Other cars: 1993 Corvette LT-4/ZF6, polo green. 22 Ranger 4x4 with a couple cool things. |
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Somehow it helps to know I am not the only one that struggled with that task. Thanks
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Black Rock, CT
Posts: 4,373
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It's been a long time since I've been in there, but I remember it, so yea, no fun. Nice write up!!!!!
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Jake Gulick, Black Rock, CT. '73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B] |
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The manual ones are only slightly better. Not exactly german engineering at it's best..
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Bone stock 1974 911S Targa. 1972 914/4 Race Car |
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Quote:
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Awww, thanks! You just say that ‘cause I work on my own cars
![]() Here is my valentine present all the way from the UK
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Can’t wait to put this rally timer set in frogger tomorrow !
I also finally drew the lotus flowers that are going to fall onto my car. In lieu of painting them, I ordered Orcal 651 vinyl in 3 shades of gray and silver. Once I got to 100 stickers it was less expensive for me to order a vinyl cutting machine ( silhouette cameo 4 279.00 on Amazon) so now I can draw and cut my own design for my custom livery. Hit me up if any of y’all want me to make a sticker for you. Hmmm, Maybe I should make queenie stickers and give them to the sweet gents on this forum that always help me!! ?
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Black Rock, CT
Posts: 4,373
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A turn to the graphic design side, interesting direction. Love it, keep us posted as you progress!
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Jake Gulick, Black Rock, CT. '73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B] |
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The 9 Store
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Wilmington, DE
Posts: 5,432
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I’ll buy 2 stickers. Thanks mark
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All used parts sold as is. |
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Should our (your) stickers say “Gurlwerks Advisor” or “Queenwerks” or something different. Let me know what you think/ want.
This will be so fun designing a sticker for our club!!! You guys have been such a huge help for me in every way. Who would have thought that we could reach across the miles without ever meeting like this. |
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"Queenwerks" will be more reflective of your pelican handle and be more readily associated with you by those who "know."
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