Compressor will not engauge.
 

I repaired many parts on my stock AC a year ago and all was well until today . Compressor will not engage when turned on. All wires are connected and number 2 fuse is good and blower works fine. I know that the relay in the fuse box can go bad. Could someone please tell me how to check it with my multi meter? Thank you. Compressor is only a year old. All I did this morning was push the capillary tube down a little farther in the hole of the evaporator.

Any chance you broke the capillary tube and released the gas inside? If so I'm thinking the system will think the evaporator is too cold and won't turn on the compressor.

Well, I was careful but I will re look at that. All I did was push it down a little more. Maybe the tube is touching metal a bit. Could it be the red AC relay? Clutch will not engage.

Others will need to chime in on that. Since you said the only change you made was related to the capillary tube I figured it would be something to check.

NastyNick, there is a copper sleeve that the capilary tube sticks in (sleeve is inserted :eek: into evaporator's fins - no problem if it touches it).

The relay you are referring to usually prevents the evaporator fan from coming on, in addition to the clutch, when it goes bad, but regardless, try tapping on the outside of the relay with a screwdriver handle, etc - there are contact points inside that can sometimes stick. I don't know how to test the relay with a meter, but you could verify that the clutch power wire is, or is not, getting power, using your meter, and that will help you narrow down your trouble shooting steps.

hi check your relay in smugglers box..on picture the silver ..on left
Ivan
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1234925254.jpg

Thanks guys. Well, I did it! I went back to check the capillary tube that I just messed with just a little and when I pulled it out sure enough, the tube broke off. Just like that! So, it is true what JRS III said up above? The capillary tube can make the compressor not engage if broken? Dang! I'm going to need a whole new switch, right?

To make it worse my Wife just told me "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!" Woman, can't live with them, can't live without them!

Jeez, Nick, what did you use to move the tube around. . . your teefs?!?! :D

The tube is gas filled and pressurized. So as the evaporator cools the gas in the tube cools and the pressure drops. When the evaporator gets too cold and the the tube pressure is too low, it cuts off the condenser. So if the tube is broken there is no pressure and the condenser won't start. You'll need to replace the whole switch/tube assembly, at least I think. Wait for confirmation from Rawknees or Kuehl, as they've forgotten more about these cars then I'll ever know. john

Rawknees! All I did was barley touch the tube. But it was very old and brittle. There is a new switch in my future! Also, thank you John for the comments. I just messed up. That is it! I'm getting a Yaris!

Does the entire console have to be removed to replace the temp switch in my 85?

To replace the expansion valve is not hard but you have to be careful if you have some free on in the system Also make sure that you put back on it the isolation material-usually asphalt tape..

Ivan
and no you do not have to remove the whole unit....
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Nick... pic of your console would help.

In '80 console, the AC control panel can easily be disconnected from console and access to temp/capillary switch is gained. Capillary feeds into console, down and out the back... then up and through hole (should be rubber grommet in hole) in bulkhead... forward in frunk to plenum/evap. From my experience, newer temp/capillary switches are larger than old ones. Something has to be modified to make the new type switch fit. I forgot what mod was needed. You may not have to deal with mod depending on your console.

Nice call on this one JRS.

looks like i got it wrong or? expansion valve is not what are we talking about...

Thanks, although I meant compressor and not condenser in the post above. I'm sure everyone realizes that.

No one else wants to broach this subject, so I will.

You can override the temp switch for now. It's a simple on/off switch, based on the response from the capillary tube. One wire in, one wire out. Green and Green/White.

For the time being, if you KNOW that the system has freon and worked otherwise, you can jumper those wires with a connector, taking the temp switch out of the electrical path. The system will remain on and the compressor will run continuously, it won't trigger on and off as the evaporator gets near freezing.

If you do this, you'll need to keep in mind that you need to turn the system off after a while, and leave it off for, oh, 2 minutes? Then turn it on for 5, then off for 2, etc. That's after you get things cooled down.

This will let you have working A/C while you order, wait for and and install a new switch.

I have a 1985 911 coupe. With the standard center console. I know a lot of the Temp switches must be modified so I think I will order one from Griffith's. He says his unit needs no modification. I'm just going to take my time and try to figure this out . There is not a lot online about how to remove the console and remove the temp switch. If anyone can point to a good set of directions or a YouTube video, that would be great. Griff is right, if you mishandle the capillary tube it will break . I hardly touched it!!

I seem to recall that the Bentley manual has a procedure for removal and installation. Not sure how good of a procedure, but it would be a starting point if you have or can borrow one. Otherwise, if you buy the part from Griffiths, I'm sure Charlie will walk you through the installation. His tech support and customer service is outstanding.

It has been a while but if I recall correctly Two screws on the front left and right side to remove the cover that hides the mess, one screw on the front left and right that holds the counsel down, one in the center at the back under the carpet, off with the shift boot, drop the switches out of the plastic keepers and they pass through a larger hole toward the front. I think there are a couple screws you need to remove to drop the piece that holds the switches and that piece once removed exposes the hole where the switches can pass through.
Hope that mess makes sense to you.