welded distributor 237 306 001
 

In the process of installing weber 40IDA carbs on my 82 SC. In the past I have read that I need a 78 -79 distributor to use with carbs in place of my 82 distributor. I was able to find one - part number 237 306 001 about a year ago at the Hershey swap meet. Today I felt it was time to get it ready to be installed. I have read in the past the Gunter thread about cleaning your distributor without removing the end gear. As I disassembled the distributor I found the weights were welded to the plate with no springs and only what ever advance was built in. Was this distributor built for racing only and is now not able to be used on the street? Comments and suggestions appreciated

No suggestions or recommendations on this welded up distributor. Hate to put it back together and just leave it on the shelf.

It's probably from IAE. And what you have is going to do great with carburetors if that's the case. I would just call Barry you get his instructions on that particular distributor I just paid good money ($1200) to have my grenaded distributor rebuilt completely, recurved and welded like you described in addition the vacuum advance was deleted and a plate put over that.

IAE +1 313-532-5350 did the stage 2 to which is an aggressive Street and you're just getting the horsepower and torque at the more bottom through mid and not at the high RPMs that and you could easily find out by giving him a call. He loves to talk and all he does is Porche distributors. He recommends an MSD ignition and a stock 1974 exhaust two in one out. Elephant racing has the oil line to go over top. You can get it from Pelican parts the host of The Forum.

I'm getting ready to pull my motor today and remove my CIS and replace it with with Weber's I just purchased last week that are completely modified with very aggressive venturi's and jetting specs as well as ported and Polished version of what you have. I'm looking for 6 inch velocity stacks for them they only have two inch on there now.

I am going to run an MSD ignition and coil with that distributor who is my Birch headers in M&K racing exhaust. But I'm sure more back pressure would be good for bottom end I just like it really loud.

When you pull the motor throw in a lightened flywheel if you want to see a fast gain in power. Really the only wait you need to remove from the car if you want power is rotating weight. It's night and day performance. If you were only going to do one mod your car for performance that would be the one that you noticed more than anything. Be advised though the clutch gets touchy and you're shifting quite fast at bottom end.

If you're still running the OEM Crossover with cat junk get some headers and a nice Muffler that sounds good to your ears. Everything is going to be removed out of that engine area anyway since you're putting carbs on. Make sure you get a fuel pressure regulator from pmo.

Question for you: what do you do about the fuel lines since you have to bypass the accumulator. Did you remove the entire wire harness and just good new wiring for the ignition?

Are you changing the cams in the Pistons to match the carburetors? I've heard without doing this you really don't notice much of a difference except for the responce and sound factor. But it's well worth that if that's all you're looking to gain. Make sure you have a good smog guy.

Good luck and have fun.

That dizzy is locked, you need some sort of external advance mechanism. Either an MSD box with an advance circuit, or something like a crank pulley wheel with teeth and a tooth sensor, etc.

Does it look like it was professionally done, or was it some dude with a pile of JB weld? If it was well done, there's probably someone out there right now that wants to get a locked dizzy without the wait, and will trade you. I actually have a 79 dizzy in my car and want a locked one, but I'm not ready for it just yet, or I would trade you right now.

Welding? Dismantling? :eek: Save yourself a whole load of bother... ;)

SC & Turbo Distributor Lock - Classic Retrofit

Possibly unrelated but early 78 SC dizzy uses a different gear pitch than later '78 if memory serves, so just be aware of that.

Thanks scrimpsher for the info.
In response to your question about fuel filters. Using three at present. A larger 5/16 filter where the original one was located and then two smaller 5/16 filters just after the PMO fuel regulator. I also switched to a Pierburg low pressure pump located where the original CIS pump was located next to the fuel tank. Part number 901 108 407.

Can't get the carbs balanced. Got all the carbs at about 7 using a synchometer, but the right bank is backfiring in the exhaust. May have to change some jets.
Still learning.
Thanks again.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1502323841.JPG

scrimpsher,
Forgot to answer your question about wiring.
This drove me crazy thinking about it and reading everything I could find.
I simply removed all the wiring connected to the CIS plus the top of the 8 or 10 pin block located on the firewall. I felt if I had a problem I could always contact Timmy2 who does wiring to build me what I needed. Did not need anything. Car starts, alternator charges, all is good so far. The only extra wire I have in the engine compartment is the wire that went to the A/C compressor.