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SalParadise's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
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Man, that guy has skills with a small forklift. I would have ratchet-strapped the heck out of that body onto the pallet and lift itself. I would have never trusted myself.

Old 02-20-2018, 03:45 AM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by upwardr View Post
My 71 signal orange.
I love it. This is great motivation. Thank you.

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Originally Posted by 911 SLANT View Post
Nice score on the 3.6 from your friend. I'm sure you got a good deal from him.
He's good friend and he gave me and insane deal on it. Basically half price.

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Originally Posted by SalParadise View Post
Man, that guy has skills with a small forklift. I would have ratchet-strapped the heck out of that body onto the pallet and lift itself. I would have never trusted myself.
Thanks, that guy is me. The body is fairly light with the drivetrain, fenders, deck lid, suspension and brakes removed. Its easy to lift and the pallet spreads out the load point so the floor doesn't distort. When you lift something like that, get it off the ground a few inches and then get out and test the balance. That little extra test can really save you from disaster.

Last edited by CPS996; 02-20-2018 at 10:28 AM..
Old 02-20-2018, 10:16 AM
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So...you are rebuilding the original engine, preserving the S-specs, but are installing the 3.6 to hot rod it?

Very cool project -- but which way are you going, or are you still deciding?
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Old 02-20-2018, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by COLB View Post
So...you are rebuilding the original engine, preserving the S-specs, but are installing the 3.6 to hot rod it?

Very cool project -- but which way are you going, or are you still deciding?
Until I can get the car down to metal and see its real condition I'm undecided. If it's a good candidate for restoration, I'll restore it. If it's not really worth restoring I'll build it into something that makes you rethink going 100% throttle.

I'm rebuilding the original engine, that way if I ever want to use it it will be ready to go. I'm not sure which spec I'm going to build it to. I'm looking for a 2.4/2.7/3.0 STD/STD crankshaft that I can polish and drop in. I'll rebalance everything, port/polish the heads, rebuild the Webers and then break the engine in on the dyno. I document everything in photos and notes. I'll put it on a display stand and pickle it, release the tension on the valve springs, aerosol oil the cylinders, etc. I'll turn it over every few weeks.

Like I said the 3.6L occasionally smokes at idle. I'll disassemble it and get it to the right person that can take it 4.0-4.1L. I'll have both engines ready to go into something. Just not sure what yet.

I'll do most of the work myself. Any specialized machining including boat-tailing, knife-edging, etc., I'll have an expert do that.
Old 02-21-2018, 04:02 PM
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You might be able to source a crank from Engine Builder's Supply (Don or Jon) or Partsheaven (Al, Jeff or Spencer). Or perhaps the guys at Reno Rennsport.
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Old 02-22-2018, 04:46 AM
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Update 2/25/2018,

As I was crossing the Golden Gate Bridge this morning a Bell Boeing V-22 Osprey flew though the towers. I love the sound of freedom in the morning.




I started this weekend by cleaning everything. I ran the case halves, fan shroud, intake manifolds, valve covers, tensioner covers, tensioner housings and oil cooler through the parts washer. The unit I used is a Safety-Kleen AQ-1. It's a spray unit in the bottom and a sink unit on top. It's full of an aqueous cleaner called Armakleen 4 in 1 Cleaner. It was explained to me as a combination of very mild amino acids, hot water and baking soda. Not sure that's correct so I looked it up. I verified that its safe for magnesium and aluminum and IT WORKED GREAT. I can definitely feel the baking soda in the cleaner. Everything came out looking like new. I thoroughly rinsed everything with water afterwards.


The white stuff on the outside of the case is oxidation. I'm going to media blast it.









I ran into a problem with the Webers. The throttle shafts on both units are frozen solid. They were taken off and drained 26 years ago and put into a box.
FROZEN... SOLID...





Oh and the velocity stacks are missing...




Sonoma Raceway has a couple of machine shops. One of them is Reidy's Racing Engines. I told the owner (Dodge Riedy) about the Webers and he set me up with his favorite concoction for getting things unstuck. 50/50 ATF and Acrylic Enamel Reducer. The carbs are now siting in a plastic tub in about 1.5" of this solution, enough to submerge the throttle shafts and butterflies. ATF is both a lubricant and a detergent. The reducer thins out the ATF which helps it get into tight places and eventually evaporates leaving just the ATF. Its great for getting things moving again. He uses it on old engines that are frozen. Let it soak for some time, longer the better.







The fan assembly has seen better days so its off to flyingjay to get refinished. His work is simply exceptional.


Last edited by CPS996; 02-26-2018 at 01:29 AM..
Old 02-25-2018, 11:31 PM
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Update 2/25/2018 cont'd,

I got a set of factory manuals off eBay for $100!!! Volumes I & II covering 1965-1972. A little grease on the pages came right off with some simple green and water.





My friend that sold me the VarioRam engine gave me a big box on Friday and said "Here. You might want this stuff." If you looked closely at the VarioRam engine you saw that it had a single 25-pin Deutsch Autosport connector. Well this is what goes on the other side of that plug. A hot-rodded 1997 993 Bosch Motronic unit. And in the bottom of the box, a really nice set of factory 993 headers.











Lastly, this is something I've had for 20 years but am just now finally getting close to having it finished. It doesn't like to roll and it doesn't have a have a steering shaft and it needed to be moved down to CorteX Racing to get a few things done so I had to get creative with the forklift again. Its fastened to a dolly that is fastened to the forklift. It's my unicorn, hopefully I can drive it this year.




Last edited by CPS996; 02-26-2018 at 07:49 AM..
Old 02-25-2018, 11:32 PM
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Update 2/27/2018

I recently posted here about looking for a 2.4/2.7 std/std crankshaft.

I received several offers ranging from $1200-$2000. But the best one was a guy that offered me a used 2.7 crank for... wait for it.... $4500!!! Pretty funny.

I made a quick call to Spencer at Parts Heaven in Fremont, CA which turned out to be well worth the effort. I got a 2.7 std/std crankshaft that had been magged and polished and is ready to install for $1500.




Last edited by CPS996; 02-27-2018 at 11:17 PM..
Old 02-27-2018, 12:31 PM
  Pelican Parts Catalog | Tech Articles | Promos & Specials    Reply With Quote #28 (permalink)
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That unicorn looks like Eleanor.........
Old 02-27-2018, 01:08 PM
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That tile floor pattern looks very familiar.

The cranks shops I have visited all had them standing on end.
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Old 02-27-2018, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frosty2 View Post
That unicorn looks like Eleanor.........
I started this in 1999 and then life got in the way. It's been sitting for 10 years. It's time to finish it. The 911 is going to Flying Lizard Motorsports to be made beautiful Signal Orange once again, when that happens I'll focus on this.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Mahler9th View Post
That tile floor pattern looks very familiar.

The cranks shops I have visited all had them standing on end.
Spencer @ Parts Heaven made my day.

Also I discovered over the weekend that the original 2.2 had turbo valve covers. I checked them on a granite table and found that they were very slightly warped so I threw them in the CNC and faced them. I ended up taking .0012" off (4 human hairs). They're really flat now.


Last edited by CPS996; 02-27-2018 at 11:16 PM..
Old 02-27-2018, 10:26 PM
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Update 3/11/2018

I've been reconfiguring my shop over the last two weekends and picked up a new addition to family. Stewie was born on 12/31/2018, the same day I got the 911. I picked him up last Saturday.





I did however get time to get one half of the case into the blasting cabinet. If you remember from the previous photos, there was a lot of hard white crystalline/mineral looking corrosion on the outside of the case, almost looks like calcium. That turned out to be where water was seeping onto the engine and reacting with the magnesium over time. I used garnet to blast the case which removed all the white deposits but left the case much lighter, almost like aluminum. This is fine because after about 24 hours the dull grey appearance returned as magnesium reacts with the oxygen in the air.



After blasting. Note the pitting from the corrosion. I also discovered the number 477 on the top of the case. This was completely hidden before.









After 24 hours. Nice and grey again. Ready for case mods.



Last edited by CPS996; 03-12-2018 at 02:19 AM..
Old 03-12-2018, 02:07 AM
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